flagmanruss

Actually, now, in summer, I start on the sensor, switch to the IAT Fooler to get better MPG at once. On a hot run, I switch back to the sensor. It's too complicated to see it what I'm doing improves summer mileage. It sure does the winter!

That would be the Toy part of the Hauler... LOL!!

not really a good picture of the flat... and high front... higher back... 28' Tahoe Toy Hauler Tag-A-Long Never had this with the horse trailer... all aluminum & much more areodynamic...

I have plugged an extension harness between the Cummins harness & IAT sensor. I have a IAT switch on my knee panel. I put it to the sensor (for grid heaters for starts in cold weather) or the resistor for override for best warm engine (lean burn) mpgs.

My previous tow rig, C30, 454 gas/built, sat up, some thought might be 4x4 but was 2 WD. It was lower than the 01 Dodge. Yes, I had to adjust the goose hitch down to keep the trailer somewhat level. I don't know (seriously doubt) that any oher make would have been better. Goosenecks allow each vehicle to follow the terain, just what it was doing. Terain was a "son of a beach".

I don't need no brakes, I'm towing a freakin billboard. The windage is incredible. There are some steep grades on the interstate (Mass Pike) with warning signs. I let up on the skinny pedal figuring to recover some of the energy from climbing the hill... NOPE!! I'm losing speed! It's like the Jolly Green Giant is holding me back. I'll tell you about going up... I was in camp with the goosneck horse trailer trying to approach my camp to load up. Had to go straight up a steep hill (45degree) from a standing start... turn between other camps down along the river. At the top of the hill, I had to hang a hard left. I neatly wheeled the CTD though the maneuver perfect. Then I noticed I'd not so neatly removed the tie down fittings from the rear stake pockets. They dented the top of the bed... the fittings had bent over completely. Pretty easy to see the trailer was still on the grade when I had to make my turn, the tie downs hit the underside of the gooseneck. D*mn!! So much for 16" of clearance...

My Quadzilla XZT+ is just the right bump for my needs now. It has a "off" setting, I normally run it on +35 which is like the mileage max, I've only towed heavy with it once... played with switching in & out of high +65-70hp. You can feel the bump when you do it on a hill. Next time I think I might just leave it in +65 in hilly country. There's one harness to thread under the hood, through the firewall. I have the harness tucked under the edge of the carpet & the XZT the same. The little 3 position toggle is through the right knee panel, easy to reach. Quadzilla has downloadable tunes on their web site... some add additional features... I'd do it again. No complaints from me.

My concern on turbos would be getting the gunuine article, not some knock off. Agree to investigate the feedback & see what other buyers say.

The Subaru has been reborn!! We were pleased & surprized that Sheila's sister & fincee' drove down for Sheila's birthday... in our Subaru. He knows the local Subaru specialist in their location, had him tear it down. His shop planed the heads .010. The timing belt, water pump & others parts we'd replaced were good. They do not think the shop here sent the heads out as they claimed. So the guy that did this job... and wouldn't stand behind it... is on our Sh*t list now.

In my opinion, something is wrong in the trailer suspension. Now, remember, all tandem axle trailer tires scuff when turning, the sharper the more scuff... but this is crazy wear. Bearings... probably alright but still possible. Bent axles, possible but again, not probable. What kind od suspension do you have? Springs? Condition of pins, equalizers, springs? (any failurses there could allow tire misalignment) Diagonal opposites is what has me scratching my head... EDIT: Add articles from Google research: http://www.etrailer.com/question-31229.html http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum4/HTML/004220.html

I don't know about the Cummins Marine set up, though I had done basic maintance on the couple we had at our docks. Marine engines are always under load pushing, more of a torque situation than HP. My reading also indicates LOWER compression on these marine pistons and altered nozzle patterns. Definately above my pay grade but I do think different nozzles would be worth a shot. Considering what you've got into it already, I'd be trying to locate some injector people familiar with this issue. DO let us know what you learn & how you make out. Others might go the same route without understanding the full consequences. (Soounds like something I'D DO.) Best Wishes,Russ

Yes, remember the whys. Cookout with family. A few volley's with (one of) my cannon over the lake... Fireworks after, by the host... A good day all around...

Very long ago, in a previous life, I was a scuba diver / instructor... Retrieving a nice old truck from Salt Pond... that's me on the running boards A couple of my buddies at 60 feet off Cape Ann, Mass (photo with a Instamatic camera in a plexi housing) Preping a class for their open water dive Rockport, Mass (Cape Ann) c1973 That's my 68 Road Runner... I can only be glad I did what I did, when I did & got some pictures. Physical limitation s*ck.

These internally vented discs are famous for this... not every one does it but eventually they all will. When mine failed, it had cracks in many fins but didn't separate until the mechanic dropped them on the concete.

I have trouble in heavy rains... the window tracks fill with water & overflow into the interior. I've mentioned this before, in passing, but I don't see that I addressed this specifically. Some I have answers to... others, I need all the help I can get!The first one I tackled because I had to. On the left at the head of our bed, the non-opening "escape hatch" window, filled the track with water, overflowing & attempting to float our bed. It is hinged at the top & pull the red handle the bottom pushes out. BUT the entire framed window is outside the window frame set into the RV skin. So the window sticks out. Rain off the roof cascades over it, gets into the hinge & the top groove, runs around to the bottom & thus fills the track. Yes, it has gaskets. No. I haven't been able to find replacement gaskets. The local RV place said it'd be cheaper to replace the whole window. As a quick fix, I took a 2 pronged approach. I used "black sticky" (electrical tape) to cover the hinge & top of the window panel. As long as it stays stuck, it deflects run off out & over the glass. Opening the window / hatch at the bottom easily pops the black sticky at the top so is safe. Since the bottom is on the outside, it sheds water like a shingle. The second thing I did was prop the window open & study the extrusion. I decided to drill a couple of drains from the outside, into the channel (inside gutter). I did this & tested by pouring water into the gutter & it ran out. Eventually, I plan to install a aluminum piece over the window to deflect water out.The big main windows have been a continueing problem. They are (2) overlaping sliders... about 60" total length. Again in heavy rains the roof run off / rain hits the moveable panel, runs into the track at the bottom... running inside the fixed panel, filling the track (gutter) up & overflowing, running down the wall, soaking everything. Each panel has 2 drain slots maybe 1.5" long. On the inside, there is a slight tab over these slots... does restrict the opening by maybe 50%, shows bright from the bottom of the window panel rubbing on it. I have used (utility) knife blades, thin pry bars to try to open these slots. I found & removed an old piece of (I think) foam rubber in each slot... plugged with dirt & pollen... I now removed. I thought that was a cure! NOPE!! What I learned is if you lift the tabs too far, the windows won't move. So these tabs are a very close fit on the window panels. The drain slots I can see without a ladder appear pretty open. I thought I had it fixed.I was out there working in the bathroom (project & pictures to follow) when a thunder storm rolled through. One window, filled the track... it was actually standing above the edge of the gutter, by tension, but of course that didn't last. I was, once again, bailing & deflecting into a container. I exhamined the window again today. The slots look clear. I can pass a ignition file (remember those??) through each slot. I tried opening the slots a bit more by filing from the outside. I think there might have been some slight amount of pollen & dirt but not obstructed by any means. When this happens while camping (as it has), yer pretty much in a spot with stuff you can't afford to get wet. I decided to drill more drain holes (3/16") in the extrusion at the same height as the slots. I moved over an inch & drilled... it seems that I hit the track for the glass fixed panel but below the glass... I stopped to study it & went back to drilling. On our last trip, I had ants... crawling in through the slots... I hated to but I had to ant spray the under carriage, the lower siding... and put ant bait away from the trailer. I hope that these new holes are not putting the any Welcome mat out. If so, I can A) cover with black sticky tape until needed (could be poked off with a small object) or B) use foam rubber in the track until needed. I guess the right fix may be to put another aluminum gutter over each but slider... to keep runoff / rain from hitting the window glass in the first place. I've worked on these sliders several times & I just don't have confidence that anything is "fixed". Heck... the problem may be the roof run off but how do you control that besides building a barn over it. (Don't get me started... the barn was built over a 56 foot mobile home... before I came along... it didn't work out {once shaded, everything got moldy in there}. It took me several years to reduce the mobil home to a deck, cut open the end of the barn, drag it out with the backhoe & get it hauled away.) This trailer is too high for this barn, anyway.

I really like the pressure tank idea. After the T, cut off valve and a screw together connector to allow draining could be part of the winterizing set up. Pretty much the same concept as by passing the hot water heater. Alternatively the line could be disconnected & a temp cap installed when the pressure tank is drained. I'm HVAC challenged. Where is the capacitor located? I thought the whole business was on my roof.

I had that happen to the front discs on my C30... when it was 20+ years old. Original discs I believe... truck was a rust bucket underneath, was originally sold in Canada.

On my old trailer unit... the underneath storage doors / body are not as good a fit as I'd like. The latches hold them in OK... one of them is a key lock. I was leaving the front compartment unlocked for convenience when we are stationary... but I found it was not as tight as I wanted. A) white faced hornets trying to build a nest. Fortunately I was working around the rig & sprayed the queen before she could get any workers. B) possible water entrance.So I started relocating the locks to the center of the hatch panels (new hole) bottom edge and adding a twist latch in the original hole. So now I can latch both corners of the access hatch... only use the key when traveling or leaving the rig unattended. I used some latches I had on hand which were a perfect style match. I bought more from Sportsmans Guide (best price). Camco brand, not a perfect match but reasonably close. If I really cared, I could move them around the rig to get the same on each hatch or maybe even a whole side.

I have an XZT+ also. It's possible A) a bad connection in the harness between the XZT & the Cummins.B) that your download was faulty C) your truck doesn't like that download. To download a program, you probably removed the XZT from the truck... I'd look first at the connection. The XZT+ has a "off" position on the toggle... Did you try that setting? If it still acted up, then I'd be looking at the XZT/harness/switchI think the "middle" setting is the same (except for added features) in all the down loads.The +70 setting is where the majority of the changes happen in the down loaded programs.

The quart 2 cycle bottles I got, have a narrow strip where the oil level is visible as it's being refilled. I use a simple funnel on my outside steel bench (old welder's bench, picked up second hand).

I bought 1 quart 2 cycle bottles of TCW3 OB oil at WM... I refill them from a gallon jug at home. My typical fill up needs about 12 oz. After refilling & leave the cap loose & squeeze them in the middle... this way the quart bottles fit in my door pockets. I carry 4-5 bottles.

I'm not going to redo it now, but that would had been a preferable system. I did clearance cut the bed liner & install the FM plug in the bed. I really liked the harness plug in on my C30... so much so that I had a duplicate system on a 1/2 ton GMC that I owned (& removed before letting the truck go).

I'm just not finding a performance chip where there are real reviews. Frustrating.

Looking at my truck (01.5 with trailer package), it seems the 7 pin socket plugs directly into the harness. I wanted a T tap set up like I had on my C30 to feed a socket for the gooseneck. I couldn't find one. I ended up with a extension run up through the bed wall but that plugged into the OEM trailer socket.

I don't believe in relocating problem critters... a racoon that raided the hen house & ended up in my Have a Heart. I took said trap to the lake, attached a (horse) lead rope & threw it in the lake for 5 minutes. When I retrieved it, the trap was nice & clean. A buddy told me that a guy on the other end of town, caught a troublesome racoon in his hen house... released caught racoon in the Wildlife Management Area, directly opposite our house. I had my buddy tell the guy that I'd caught the racoon & I'd released it by HIS farm!