hd99fxr3

Your absolutely right, I don't know you. And beleive it or not, I'm not looking to make an enemy here. I don't need to look through the metal to diagnose the problem. Experiance has told many here that with compression down in all cylinders and one cylinder only having 100 psi. What will be found once the head comes off. Cylinders 2-6 will have worn rings or most likely scored cylinder walls. Cylinder #1 will most likely have a hole in the piston, and or worse scoring than cylinders 2-6. There are but a few ways that, that can happen. 1) Oil / fuel / air changes not to schedule or incorrect type or weight of oil, or the wrong filter for the application. Improper fuel type. 2) Improper operation of the equipment, prior to engine reaching operating temp. 3) Vehical used as part of a business, with more than one driver (gleaned from your posts, if true see items 1 and 2) 4) With the miles you stated you had on the truck, there is a remote chance that you lost compression in all 6 cylinders, due to 6 faulty injectors washing down the cylinder walls. But you should be playing the lottery if thats the case. 5) Add on do dad adding way too much fuel, causes cylinder wall wash down. Injector #1 goes bad, causes hole to burn in piston. Which brings a problem to light ( scored cylinder walls, low compression). If it turns out to be anything else I'll eat my crow without ketchup or salt. You came looking for answers, and I honestly told you what "I" thought the problem was, based on your answers to the questions asked by the board members. Sorry if you are offended by my posts. It's not my intention to do that.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330654553346?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 Looks like just the ticket for those of us with extended warranties.

It's yours to do with as you like. I was just saying, the problem that brought you here to begin with was likely, because of the way you treat your stuff. Again not trying to offend, just pointing out that the results you found out about your 1st engine, sound an awful lot like what you would expect from a diesel engine not being used / driven / serviced in the manner it was intended. i.e. all 6 cylinders being down on compression, are classic symptoms of driving / using the truck before it was warmed up sufficently. You don't have to sit and let it idle, till it's warm, but you can't take off like a jack rabbit either. It takes me 5 mins longer to get to work now that I have the dodge vs. the 5.3L chevy. With the chevy I could just drive normal, as soon as the oil pressure was up. Now I drive like an old man with nowhere to go, till the temp. hand moves into the zone on the gage. Diesel longevity requires a lifestyle / driving change. Have fun with your truck, I was just trying to give you some different ways to skin the cat.

I thought that was the 68RE.

Why would you do that? These are not gasoline engines that where designed for higher rpm ranges. It is likely that you destroyed or helped destroy your first engine, through similer abuse. Diesels were designed to be lumbersome pulling monsters, not sleek goddess of speed i.e. a 440 six pack. Treat them like your grandma, not your G friend, and they will be around along time. Granny needs awhile to get up out of the chair, and get the old bones limbered up, but once going can go all day at a steady pace. A diesel should be thought of in the same way. Start it up, let the oil presure build, and then drive like granny would till the temp. gage climbs into the good zone, and then work her all day long at a steady pace. Used this way they will run circles around a gas motor, treat it like one and you'll get the results you did with your first engine. Off my high horse now.

Boiling Springs

I see in the service manual that it was possible to get an Allison transmission behind the CTD in a Dodge. Was this available for 2500 and up, or was it for the 4500-5500 series? Was it a 4 or 5 spd.?

You could always disable the door switch, with tape or solder a jumper across the lugs on the switch. But then the lights wouldn't work when you opened the door at night.

Can a DEF vehical be sucessfully deleted? EGR and EGR cooler are a no brainer. But what about the rest?

Friends 2011 4500 has an intermitant CEL, when it's on the lie o meter MPG improves about 25-30%. Plan on taking it to pull the codes but was just wondering, how the two could be linked? In other words why the improvment in mpgs when the CEL is on?

The upstate Thanks to everybody that has responded

I don't remember where I read it. And it may well be something besides oil, but the jist was that the older fuel pumps needed the extra additive to survive.

The most cost effective mods are advancing the timing ring behind the dampner. That procedure is covered in the power train forum in the DIY thread. Tire pressure, alignment, and make sure the steering and suspension are tight with no slop. Filters changed, transmission fluid / filter and rear axel fluid changed. drive like a little old lady from Pasadena. Time red lights so that you arrive just as it turns green and you are still rolling. keep rpms less than 2K.The mods you mentioned may improve milage but only if he drives it like an old lady. Mods tend to make people say hey watch this! which leads to even worse milage than they got before. all the while scratching their head and wondering why the do dads didn't help the milage?At least that's my experiance.If it has 4.10 gears he can go to a bigger tire to help get the rpms down. Same would apply to 3.73 as well. And stay away from open sided tires.

I ran a set of Cooper Discoverer H/Ts on my last truck and only got 34K before they where bald. Never towed anything, rotated every 3K. On a 1500 no less, I was not impressed.

Right after I bought my '06, I called Dodge to see if there were any outstanding recalls and was told about this one. Good till 2016 or 150K on the odometer.

I agree that since I'm not using 2cyl oil yet it's not causing the smell. I am however running Rotella in her car, but never noticed the smell before. It seems that since going to ULSD, I smell more and more vehicals on the interstate that smell like they are burning oil. Now that I think about it, I did read where the refiners are putting oil back into the ULSD because of lubricity issues. Just remembered that as I was typing.

Thanks for catching that.

Reviving an older thread here. Looking for some updates. I have an '06 2500 I just bought and wife has '84 MB 300SD 5cyl. diesel that we've had for some time now. Her's smells like it is buring oil, but I don't see any loss between oil changes. ShouldI start adding something to her car as well?

I just change fluid and filter in my '06 2500. When all was said and done it took 7qts of ATF+4. I will be adding a drain to the pan the next time I do this.

Thanks for the reply.

Looking forward to finding out about my new to me '06 QCSB 2WD. Been around diesels a good portion of my life but mostly in the big rigs.

Looking at your sig line your grossing 11K and a dually to boot. You should be tickled that your getting as good as you are. try paring back some of the weight your carring around and the milage will go up. Rule off thumb in drag racing is you need 1hp for every 10lbs of weight more than the other guy. It kind of factors in wind resistance and things of that nature which grow exponentally the faster you go. But you get the picture. Your putting a lot of downward movement on the throttle, just to move the extra 4000lbs to the speed limit. --- Update to the previous post... Looking at your sig line your grossing 11K and a dually to boot. You should be tickled that your getting as good as you are. try paring back some of the weight your carring around and the milage will go up. Rule off thumb in drag racing is you need 1hp for every 10lbs of weight more than the other guy. It kind of factors in wind resistance and things of that nature which grow exponentally the faster you go. But you get the picture. Your putting a lot of downward movement on the throttle, just to move the extra 4000lbs to the speed limit.

Like the others have said, with a diesel the oil is always black looking from the soot deposits. That's why it is so important to use quality media for filters and recommended oil specs, and change intervals.

First post here. Which way do you need to move the tone ring? Clockwise or counter clockwise?thanks