hd99fxr3

Like others have said prep work is the most important aspect. The paint choice $$$ + quality, long lasting. Painting is easy, prep is where the work is. You can do it yourself and although you won't save any money. You'll have the tools to do the job again when needed. Start with an Acrilic Enamel (cheap) put hardner in it. And it will shine like a new penny. It is not as durable as other paint types but is great to learn with and will last a good long time if waxed good at least once a year. I've painted cars and tractors and they have turned out great. Do the truck in sections. It takes more time but is easier to do and lets you build your skills.Look at my avatar pic it is a simple enamel with hardner painted in my driveway.

Heres hoping its something simple

It's called designed obsolessence. Nobody makes anything now that is designed to work forever. Too many people needing jobs. Too many companies needing $$$$$$$$$$$$$$. The older generation Deeres still have good parts availability. There were more made, because there were more farms then. A nice 2N, 8N, 9N ford would do the same work as your current JD 1050 and could be had for about what your going to pay just for the parts to fix yours. That particular tractor was manufactured in Germany, so you may have more luck searching for the part in Europe.Deere still has the best support for the older tractors, but like the old advertisment said "Nothing runs like a Deere" Nothing costs like one either.goto yesterdaystractor.comAnd post in the tractor talk forum and the JD forum. There are several people there living in Europe, including some Ex-pats working over there for uncle suger.

I agree

The 800tq has been available as a download since the 6.7 came out with it.

When was the last time you changed the fuel filter?

Without having a calibrated gage, to check yours against your just trending anyway. This is truly one of those time will tell situations. The setup as you have it will show you enough information to make an educated assumption based on observations of the gage over time. I'm just points hunting with this post anyway:thumbup2:

This needs brought back to the top just for schitz n giggles.

This is still an issue with the 5.4. The plugs are like $24 each, so the high cost of having them replaced is not out of line. given the $200 price tag just for the plugs.

I think the Cab over would be a hoot with a small diesel, in the 3 liter range. A 6BT would be over kill.

Is this the same truck as in your sig line? Is this the truck that you just put a used engine in, or a different one?

Almost looks photo shopped. The frame is not just bent its missing in the pic, or the concrete barrier just happened to slot itself so the frame would slide down in it. Plus if you recovered the truck and could bent it back straight, the bed would be setting in the crew cab space.

Why chance ruining a $10k engine when you only need to spend $80 or less every 15k miles which is the yearly average. I'm not saying it's a crock. I'm just asking is it worth the risk?

Has to be something simple. Good luck.

Congrats. I hope it does you well.

I would look at the Temp control on the heater hose, it is perhaps not functioning properly. It could be Vacuum controled or cable or even electric, just not sure. But since you lose heat when idleing, it would point to either, low vacuum, or electrical current not allowing the valve to stay open. Could also possible be a stuck thermostat, or clogged passages in the heater core or Radiator or both. Also when was the last time your Coolant was changed? If your PH is off it may have caused an issue the impeller on the water pump to erode so that it is not moving enough water at idle, or other internal damage.Could also be heater fan not getting enough current at idle, or one of the air intakes is blocked with leaves or similar.In any event if it works at speed but not at idle, it has to be close to something I mentioned. No heat= no/low coolant flow or low air flow over the core.

I want to thank everbody for their thoughts and well wishes. We are putting a Hummingbird feeder up at the gravesite for mothers day. Momma loved Hummingbirds and Cardnals.

All is well in my world again since last Tuesday. Truck is fixed. Did 1000 mile round trip to Ohio with GN at about 10K, with no problems. Got a hand calculated 13.94 mpgs for the trip. Seems the trip up the Saluda grade into Hendersonville and then over Jellico with the long pulls out of Knoxville, and then reversed on the return trip, seated the rings really good, or something similar. Did a 150 mile found trip to work yesterday and got a hand calculated 21.6mpgs. Previous best over same route was 19.3mpg from the same fuel source. Heres hoping, it was not just a fluke. Oh almost forgot I was running 72-73mph while getting 21.6.

Welcome. Lots of good people, with goobs of knowledge here.

Russ, again this is a factory radio, installed in the factory, in the factory wiring harness during assembly of the truck. This is not an aftermarket radio, that somebody installed in the truck.

In Dad's case undoing the batterys, solved the problem in the short term. They were brand new. Disconnecting the radio has solved the problem.

another thing to check would be the torsion rubbers in the axle. If they are shot, you would get offsets like you are talking about.

I figured you wouldn't need a warning and would be smart enough to do it without damaging anything

Sorry if I was not clear. Yes, she had pancreatic cancer.

Dad's drain was such that it only took two days at most for the batterys to be low enough that it wouldn't turn the starter over. On a brand new matched set of batterys.