hd99fxr3

The sensor on the diff is the wheel speed sensor, not VSS. The VSS is the one at the back of the case. The other can only be the neutral safety switch. which if it looks like this. Is correct for a '97 model year truck. Check your steering column under the cover to see if the shifter runs through some type of switch / sensor. Somewhere in the shift linkage there has to be something that tells the transmission what gear you have selected ( just not familiar with enough to know when it went from mechanical to electrical ). If there is nothing with wires going to it that the linkage goes through, it's mechanical and on the inside of the transmission probably where your trouble is. The only other possiblility is that the linkage has a worn bushing in it somewhere. Sorry I can't be more definitive.

All you need to do is call your Dodge dealer and give them the VIN code. They can then tell you if you truck is part of the recall. The catch is, it has to be malfunctioning for them to fix it. They will not replace until it breaks.

Spike, welcome to the sight. Keep your foot off the go pedal is the biggest help.

Mine was doing the same thing in between episodes, work for a day or so, then act up. My spring was weak and there was fluid in the connector. The switch is right behind where the shift cable hooks to the linkage on the trasmission. Right above the drivers side front corner of the transmission oil pan. VSS on my '98 1500 was in the tail shaft on the drivers side. I'd start there first as common sense dictates it should be in the tail shaft portion of the transmission.

I like it.

It is the notorious TIPM failure in the '06 model year, that is driving this notice from Dodge. It doesn't apply to other years. If it hasn't failed it will. Mine took out the starter when it went and left me stranded on the side of the road. Should you have an issue, it is known by Dodge that the TIPM failure can take the starter with it. Or the starter will take out the TIPM when it goes. T otally I ntegrated P ower M odule is Dodge speak for the fuse box.

Thanks. i was just reading about your problem and this may also apply. If it is a 47RE you are having problems with. Responded to your thread with possible solutions / checks.

If the VSS is bad or covered with shavings you will get similar symptoms. It would be worth a look at that particular piece. If it's covered in goop / shavings wipe them off and re-install. If the problem goes away good, if not a new one is fairly cheap. Might not fix it, but will rule out sensor as the culprit. Also the neutral safety / transmission range sensor could be faulty. Check this out http://forum.mopar1973man.com/forums/30-CR-Reliablity-Performance Although for me it was a no start issue, the spring loaded plunger rides against the shift pawl inside the transmission. A weak spring could be the culprit as well. Could also be residue / oil in the plug on the sensor too. Seems like the position of the plunger tells ECM what gear you are starting out in.

Done. Pictorial will be edited in shortly.

Will add pics to steps shortly. This covers the 47 and 48 RE transmissions but there is evidence that it is used on other years / types of Chrysler products. Procedure should be similar for the other automatics used in the 2500 3500 line of trucks. OK, changed out the Neutral Safety Switch, AKA transmission range sensor last night. Easy job, but messy as all get out. You'll need a drain pan, 1/4 drive ratchet, 6" extension ( 4" would probably work ), small TORX bits ( forgot to check the size ), 1qt or more of ATF+4 ( depending on how fast you are ). Wouldn't be a bad idea to do this in conjunction with a fluid and filter change of the transmission. 1) Set parking brake 2) Block wheels from rolling back on you in case parking brake don't work 3) With engine not running shift to Neutral 4) Slide under the truck about right where the front of the oil pan is for the transmission, on the drivers side. When looking at the side of the transmission casing, you will see where the shifter cable connects to the linkage on the transmission. Right behind it is the Safety switch. It will have wires and a connector on it and will be black plastic with two Torx head screws holding it to the casing. 5) Pull out the Red locking coller on the connector, unplug the wires from the switch. Check this connector for fluid build up inside it. If there is any use electrical contact cleaner in the spray can to clean it out. Once clean put some Dielectric grease on the connector covering the female section of the plug. 6) Remove the two Torx bolts, and be ready for a face full of oil. 7) At this point as soon as you put some pressure on the switch to pull it out, you need to have the drain pan in place to catch the fluid stream that is going to gush out the side of the case. And have the new switch in hand to stick back in place of the old one. Depending on how quick you are will depend on how much fluid you will lose. 8) Insert and tighten the two Torx screws holding the switch in place. 9) Connect the plug to the switch. 10) Push Red locking coller on plug back in. 11) Check transmission dip stick to ensure there is at least some fluid showing on the stick. If not, add some till it just starts to show on the stick. 12) Place gear selecter back in park, and go through the start procedure to start the truck. 13) While placing your foot on the brake pedal, put the gear selector through it's complete range of movement, allowing a moment between positions for the fluid to flow throught the valve body. Once you have done this, ending with the selector in the park position. Double check to be sure the parking brake is still applied, and shift the gear selector into neutral. 14) Now check the transmission fluid on the dipstick, with engine running. Add ATF+4 until the stick reads full, following the directions on the stick. 15) Place the gear selector back into the park position. 16) Release the parking brake, and back the truck up so you can clean up the mess under it, and go for a test drive. 17) Once the test drive is over, set the parking brake and repeat the directions starting with step 14, until the transmission fluid level is at a satisfactory level on the dipstick. It takes longer to prepare and clean up, than it does to do the change out and test drive. You will notice right away that the movment of the gear selector is firmer, than it was before the change out. The reason for this is that the switch you just put in is also the tensioning device ( detent ) for the gear selectors position on the pawl inside the transmission. So when the spring is weak in the switch it creats a situation in which the ECM does not know what gear the transmission is in, there by causing the no start situation I was experiancing.

Wifes MB 300SD burns / loses Rotella and Delo like crazy. Never have to do any adding when running Wally World Super Tech 15w-40.

SShh Your giving away your age. Tankers always did have a problem with ComSec. :banghead:

Yep, welcome and thanks for your service. Fobbit or otherwise, it takes a team effort to be an Army of one. LOL Former 19D here. Didn't stay long enough to retire, but I should have.

OK, changed out the Neutral Safety Switch last night. Easy job, but messy as all get out. You'll need a drain pan, 1/4 drive ratchet, 6" extension ( 4" would probably work ), small TORX bits ( forgot to check the size ), 1qt or more of ATF+4 ( depending on how fast you are ). Wouldn't be a bad idea to do this in conjunction with a fluid and filter change of the transmission. 1) Set parking brake2) Block wheels from rolling back on you in case parking brake don't work3) With engine not running shift to Neutral4) Slide under the truck about right where the front of the oil pan is for the transmission, on the drivers side. When looking at the side of the transmission casing, you will see where the shifter cable connects to the linkage on the transmission. Right behind it is the Safety switch. It will have wires and a connector on it and will be black plastic with two Torx head screws holding it to the casing.5) Pull out the Red locking coller on the connector, unplug the wires from the switch. Check this connector for fluid build up inside it. If there is any use electrical contact cleaner in the spray can to clean it out. Once clean put some Dielectric grease on the connector covering the female section of the plug.6) Remove the two Torx bolts, and be ready for a face full of oil.7) At this point as soon as you put some pressure on the switch to pull it out, you need to have the drain pan in place to catch the fluid stream that is going to gush out the side of the case. And have the new switch in hand to stick back in place of the old one. Depending on how quick you are will depend on how much fluid you will lose.8) Insert and tighten the two Torx screws holding the switch in place.9) Connect the plug to the switch.10) Push Red locking coller on plug back in.11) Check transmission dip stick to ensure there is at least some fluid showing on the stick. If not, add some till it just starts to show on the stick.12) Place gear selecter back in park, and go through the start procedure to start the truck.13) While placing your foot on the brake pedal, put the gear selector through it's complete range of movement, allowing a moment between positions for the fluid to flow throught the valve body. Once you have done this, ending with the selector in the park position. Double check to be sure the parking brake is still applied, and shift the gear selector into neutral.14) Now check the transmission fluid on the dipstick, with engine running. Add ATF+4 until the stick reads full, following the directions on the stick.15) Place the gear selector back into the park position.16) Release the parking brake, and back the truck up so you can clean up the mess under it, and go for a test drive.17) Once the test drive is over, set the parking brake and repeat the directions starting with step 14, until the transmission fluid level is at a satisfactory level on the dipstick.It takes longer to prepare and clean up, than it does to do the change out and test drive. You will notice right away that the movment of the gear selector is firmer, than it was before the change out. The reason for this is that the switch you just put in is also the tensioning device ( detent ) for the gear selectors position on the pawl inside the transmission. So when the spring is weak in the switch it creats a situation in which the ECM does not know what gear the transmission is in, there by causing the no start situation I was experiancing.Picture of Neutral Safety Switch

Yea, that is a good one. I had a similar experiance recently. SWTSMBO was feeling neglected, because of pulling season, and made a snide remark about the tractors. My comeback was, "I guess I should have took up drinking and wh*ring"! All was quite for a bit, and then an apoligy was forth coming from SWTSMBO. :lmao::ahhh:Definition of SWTSMBO S he W ho T hinks S he M ust B e O beyed

Truck in sig line is intermittingly not wanting the start with out moving the gear selector around a bit. I'm thinking neutral safety switch but not 100%. Anything else ?

No, but short trips 4 days a week. That's why there's only 6000 miles on the oil.

Welcome to the site.

Yea, I know. Just wondered why the tech mentioned it. Refilled with Castrol again. It was on sale so I snatched up two cases (6gals). Bought Premium blue to replace it when it comes out.

Reminds me of the Pinto days of past

I would think that, that is more money down the drain, but maybe it's easier to do that what I'm about to suggest.Since the biggest area of possible contamination from residue build up, is the transmission cooler. I would disconnect the line at the top of the cooler, add a seperate line with a funnel attached and pour some diesel into the line until it runs out the line at the bottom of the cooler. I would then stop up the line so that nothing runs out and fill it back up with fuel. Let it sit for some period of time. Couple of hours overnight? Then let the fuel drain out using a cheap see thru filter to catch any residue, just for piece of minds sake. I would then take an air hose with a regulater on it set to maybe 10-15 psi and blow air thru the whole thing, connecting where you poured the fuel in. Until nothing is coming out of the lower line. I would then pour the recommended ATF fluid in that the rebuild people recommend, and use air the blow it thru cooler and out the bottom. I would only do this if I felt I absolutely should flush it. Somebody else will be along shortly, to offer another opinion I'm sure. It is also possible what I described is not recommended by the other mechanics on here for valid reasons. I'm just a shade tree kind of guy, the guys that do this everyday are the better qualified.

Everything was great, with the exception of a mention of a small amount of soot in the sample. Used Mopar oil filter, changed to Baldwin. Just wonder what they mean about the soot in the sample.UpdateI know there is always soot present in the oil on a diesel, hince the coal black color of the oil. So......? Heres the report, what say you?[ATTACH]4282[/ATTACH] 3462_001.pdf

I think I would look for a different truck. This one has too many issues. The big ones being wiring/electrical.The A/C is probably something simple like low freon or a clogged filter / drier. But stil l$$$ to fix if you can't do it your self.Transmission is not right either, low fluid or worn pump would be my guess. If the fluid level checks good, it's the pump or maybe clogged filter.

For your needs, there is no need to spend extra for upgrades unless, it's something you want for the sake of wanting. Good reliable stock rebuild parts will do you just fine, in my opinion.

I have a want for an Ebrake, but the extended warranty people will not include one in the warranty even if installed by Dodge using an approved by Dodge Ebrake. I checked with the Dodge dealer any way and they wanted $2800.00 to install one, so my itch got scratched, off the list. I've got killer trailer brakes, that will stop the entire 22k, by using just the controller in short order.