hd99fxr3

Welcome to the house

Likely your port job on the left cylinder, created more flow than the right side. Hence when tuning the carb you had to richen the carb adj. to get the good flowing cylinder to get to run right, and were way rich on the not so good flowing cylinder (assuming one carb 2 cyl.).

On a 2 stroke cycle engine a tuned muffler is more important than almost anything else you can do. Opening up the muffler willy nilly will cause problems. You also need to keep in mind that the carb changes need to be done prior to muff mods and then checked during the runs with muffler mods. The carb can be made to go rich or lean when messing with the muffler flow. For the exhaust you want to tune for the 5-6 impulse wave IIRC. If you don't have a sensor to sample the exhaust during adjusting of the carb and exhaust, to see if your rich or lean you'll just be barking up a storm and not making any progress, and likely ruin a good running saw. Google tuned exhaust pipe. You should pull up enough informtion to get really confused, before you see the light. Confused yet?

Something to keep in mind. Being a former Cooper tire employee, I can say without a doubt that all OEM automotive tires have less tread depth than a replacement tire. The same is true for tires bought @ Walmart or Sam's or similar places, usually a big differance in compounds as well.

Better late than never. Happy B-day bud.Are you scared to get a hair cut, cause you think the long hair arrow dynamiks will be messed up and fuel milage will go down???

welcome to the site

Based on your findings my SWAG is a cracked intake or blown intake gasket. Had the same problem on a '98 Dodge 1500 w/318 would only spark knock when it was warm, pulling a load up a hill. was a bear to find. Intake runner for one cylinder was cracked. never through a code. The 3.0L ford V6 where ____ engines after some miles were put on them.

Welcome to the forum as well. I too bought a used truck, that has stumped and flumoxed me acouple of times. The up side is I know it wants to be a good truck just the PO didn't do his job.It gets better, and when you have it all fixed. It'll run for years to come.

I concur. Nothing is better than a Stihl. I messed around for years with the cheaper saws. Finally broke down and paid $3++, and after the first cut I was sold.

Well I broke down an looked, they make a full syn after all. Finding it will be the trick, unless you buy direct from a wholesaler and they order it in. None of my retailers carry it, the wholesalers have to order by the case, and you take it by the case. http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongenericarticle.do?categoryId=82915494&contentId=7036193

I should have put Castrol in my reply. They may make a full Syn rear gear lube but I've never seen it.

I failed to mention, I'm running a .029 squish in that engine as well. I was able to pull fuel and timing from high load areas in the map, because of the grooves. They don't do anything for power as far as I'm concerned, but I am convinced that they allow a better tune, and driveability. The compression loss is minimal not even a tenth of a point with an 84cc chamber.

The third gens not going to like the Castrol engine oil for the diesel. Castrol to my knowledge don't make a full synthetic oil for the rearend. My '06 Cummins and the wifes '84 MB 300SD didn't appreciate the Castrol Diesel oil. I bought it on sale. Wally Worlds Supertech 15w-40 is a better oil according to the test on Turbo Diesel Registry. Castrol placed at the very bottom. Supertech was # 2 or 3 on the list With Valvoline Premium blue taking 1st spot.

The 3.0L were known for heads cracking and head gasket issues. I'd concentrate there, with first doing a leakdown test.

I believe he meant you should get a 5th wheel trailer and put the atv on the back of it. Just get a longer one, that way the atv counters the hitch weight of the longer trailer. LOL

Thanks for that. Now where is that sucker located? Can't find it, looked in the PDC, under the PDC. No findy.

Not school'n. added that mostly for wagtagn, cause I know google is your BFF.

Heres a thread from not long ago where Mike describes how to do it. It's about half way down. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/5959-Coolant-flushing?highlight=flush+coolant There are more. I used the search engine window on this site and typed in "flush antifreeze". You can do it with out starting the engine, just takes longer. Pull the heater hoses and put the hose so that water runs in one hose, and when its running clear out the other it's flushed. Open the radiator drain, and pull the thermostat. Stick the hose in the radiator opening and turn it on (not full blast). When clear water runs out the thermostat opening, it's good. Prior to that, run the water into the heater hose barb sticking out of the head, to give it a bit of a flush. If it's been a long time or you have scale build up get a bottle of flush and follow the directions.

http://somender-singh.com/content/view/7/31/

That's why flushes are recommended, and are not hard to achieve. Just time consuming. But again nothing that a saturday morning won't fix.

Although, we all stress our trucks pulling trailers, they are rolling loads with all four tires firmly planted on the ground.There will be some minor frame flex till the load is rolling, but then it relaxes. This can over time cause stress cracks.However in sled pulling, the frame never relaxes until the pull is over. The torque of the engine will try and flip the truck over. Ladder bars in the back help dilute the frame flex where they mount to the frame, but do nothing for the front 2/3rds of the frame.When you look at truck pulls or drag races, you will see the left front tire lift off the ground, in varing amounts depending on the amount of traction and torque amounts the vehical is experianing. I called the pulling into play because 98 is using his truck for something that puts extreme flex into parts that were not designed for that amount of torsional load. Ergo lots of possibilities for cracks, and easy to diagnose as the likely culprit. Even if not the root cause it is surely an accellerent.

I wonder if Singh grooves in the piston dome, would promote a faster burn rate, like it does in my HD? Put the grooves in those heads, and even though I have 10-1 compression I can run regular unleaded in a pinch without detonation.

The reason given was that. "when you turn the key voltage goes through the relay" If the current isn't burnt off via the starter, the points in the relay get burnt. I makes logical sense to me, and could explain the rapid failure of starters in my truck, one of which got the TIPM as well.I'm just throwing this out there to see what pops, but I think I will get one and change it out just for piece of mind. It takes a VIN# through dealer parts to get the right relay. He said not to use one from an auto parts store.

I think with a little more research you'll find that the only reason the CRs require it, is because of running the green stuff in the older trucks. They didn't magically need it just because the went to a CR for fuel delivery. My wifes MB 3.0L 5 cyl diesel requires the green type be changed every year. It's a 1984 model. cast iron block and head with cylinders cast in block just like the Cummins. If you don't the engine will eat itself from the inside out. With the HOAT technology MB recommends a 60 month interval of changes in the older diesel cars. It's not that much more. $16.99 vs $12.99 for the green.

Looking for a program that will allow me to play the video files I took using the Blackberry. Format is .3gp I believe. google has not been my friend in this endeavor.