Gamble

Gotcha. Let me know if you take it off, I may be interested in your spacers. I need to get mine leveled out myself. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

I can't see sigs on my phone but I am going to say no. If you want it to sit level you would have to raise the front back up. Usually 2" does the trick. Why you wanting to take off the lift. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

Great write up but the question of the day is........Unless I missed it somewhere......When will injectors be available for the 24 valve trucks, as I need to know how much overtime to work every week.

I sent you pm, but in addition you need to check your regulator and make sure it's both properly installed and that it hasn't been clogged by debris already. This occurs a lot on the initial install. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

I got lucky and picked mine up from a craigslist find. $75 bucks and it was as close to brand new as i could ask for. Much like Bennin, mine has the offset hinge.

I will get you some dimensions on the box tomorrow. It is a tractor supply aluminum box with adjustable lock stops. Makes it easier to clean the cab top of the truck too!

This is what I use. It has a lot if room in it, but you could still use your cover if you wanted to. I have a 4 ton jack, tool kit, cables, ext cord, shovel, etc in mine. With room to spare. It's a tractor supply version.

I hate to hear you are not a fan of the assassin. Unless you have a leak in the line you won't lose prime if a belt breaks, as a matter of experienced fact, the truck will continue to run because the VP will vacuum pull fuel. Definitely don't want to do that for long but ot will. As for priming, the initial prime was the only time I have had to prime mine and it primed in a very short time when I filled the fuel tank with air. The drill option will take a little longer. I too have the small oil loss but I keep mine clean and it hasn't ever been enough to even make a drop on my driveway. I am not sure why your pressure is so low on the idle side, I still sit at 13-15 idle and 20-21 anytime above that. Good luck. On the flip side I am not sure if your in an auto or manual as I can't see sigs at the moment, but my manual is obviously going to idle higher than an auto so maybe those 3-400 rpms are the difference in Idle pressure.

Yeah man, at a low price of 40k I may pick up a couple so I can take one off sweet jumps and stuff. That's a pretty cool idea, but a touch out of the price I'm looking for.

I think we have a grasshopper dealer, I will try to get one and try it.

Indeed. I have been on a ZT for several years but only a small residential cub. As of now, I have demoed a scag, exmark, husqvarna, hustler and a ferris. So far the scag is winning with a close second by the husky. Hated the exmark, really liked the ferris but to many moving parts and high price tag. Hustler is good, but not ideal for my conditions.

Yeah. I have been in the market for a commercial ZT for the past few weeks. I have demoed five different mowers. I guess I am going to pick one up next week. I have about 4-5 acres to mow. I debated on a small tractor with a pull behind but it wouldn't be practical for the terrain.

Georgetown KY. Hopefully there will be lots of BBQ's.

Yet again I have been fairly absent from the forum, just making it on when I had a couple minutes down time here and there. I have been in the process of buying another casa and finally got it all worked out. My wife and I have been looking for some land for a while now and just couldn't find anything close enough to her work but far enough in the country to be country and still be able to both enjoy the house and afford to buy it. Through nothing but the grace of GOD we located this piece of property that was not even for sale and now own it and 25 acres surrounding it. I wanted to share with you guys as there are few folks that understand how things like this can make one feel, but you guys do..... These are just a few pictures, haven't gotten to take a lot just yet, but you get the idea.

This is a great thread.... and I will most definitely be doing this soon.

Do you have an aftermarket clutch? I can't see sigs on my phone?

[ATTACH]5456[/ATTACH]I said to heck with it and installed mine too.

Hard to keep one clean this time of year period. I've went green without even trying from all the pollen.

Welcome to the forum, I believe I am the local guy in your case, I live in lexington (at least for a short time more). I can only assume you are going to bctc as I have a couple degrees from there myself, same background. Congrats on the truck it is a good looking rig.

Keep in mind these are my opinions and they have already been taken out of context. Lol pressure drops due to amp draw does hold up. But only under proper circumstances. If an electrical pump begins to get a little tired, and your nominal pressure consistently goes to 15-16 now when you add in that 2-3 psi drop your in the danger zone for cooling the VP when it's running at its hardest. So it matters then IMO. As far as the fuse goes. I do not have any experience with the other pumps as I stated, and I am NOT degrading them. But I carry 2 belts in my center console and I can change my belt in less than 3 minutes and I can purchase a belt at any local auto store without issue. The mechanical pumps have proven themselves over the years but for me they are simple and easy to fix. For that matter I intend to buy and carry the two seals and bearings and keep those in my truck also allowing for a complete rebuild roadside if need be. There is ALWAYS a possibility for catastrophic failure no matter what you use, I personally put more faith in gears than electrical motors though. As for the pump failures, I say this because I researched just as he is when I needed to buy a pump. I am NOT comparing mechanical to electrical for longevity. I am saying that through the course of my searching I found a lot of people complaining about their electrical pumps failing and lacking the quality/customer service of the earlier built electrical pumps. You can drop the pump from its mount and spin it up with a drill or crank the engine. The pump does not lose its prime, I have left my truck sitting for over two weeks and it stills starts faster than it ever did with the oem lift pump. I have taken my regulator apart numerous times and lose very little fuel, and it immediately starts when I button it back up, no priming, no issues. Hope this clarifies a little, and I am not saying the electrical pumps are lesser pumps, I just happen to like gears.

^^^^^ True and not true. The mechanical pumps are not p pumps. P pumped 24 valve trucks are a whole different conversation all together. One I recommend you not even venture into unless you plan to make huge power out of the truck. We are simply using a mechanical pump driven by the crank shaft to feed the VP 44 as opposed to an electrical pump like an oem or an air dog. The Shop/mechanic did tell you partial truth, the in tank pump lasts longer because it's a pusher not a puller like the block mounted pump, but it still does not provide adequate pressure to keep the VP safe, and will die eventually. The in tank version is what they force you to convert to now for oem standard. Disregard that all together as you want to go aftermarket. Electrical or mechanical is all about preference. As I stated in my review. I have NO issues with air dog/fass etc as i have not ever used one. I have seen a lot more folks talking failure out of them in the last 3-4 years. An electrical pump by nature has a pressure drop in correspondence to more throttle due to amp draw. Where as a mechanical pump increases pressure as throttle is introduced. If a belt starts to slip I know it immediately and can pull over, swap a belt and Continue on in a matter of 3 minutes. Try to diagnose an electrical issue that fast. Not to mention if a fuse blows, you have zero pressure, my belt starts to slip, I have 16 pounds instead of 20, And can limp that a long long way. Lol Hope this helps and by all means simply do your research (as you are lol) and see what fits your peace of mind. It's your truck, it's your choice.

Yeah, I was not saying to replace the cp3 unless you plan to upgrade power quite a bit. In cant hurt to replace the lift pump regardless.

Sorry, I can't see sigs on my phone. If you have a newer common rail your in pretty good shape, the cp3 won't burn up quite like the VP will, however I would still recommend an upgrade asap and maybe a cp3 from a dirtymax or a bag o parts. (Cp3 upgrade not lift pump.) The common rails have a huge upgrade variable based on what you intend to do with the truck as an end result.

The key to having a hub rotor turned is to take it somewhere that does big truck work. A lot of big trucks use the same type rotor for the front so they will have the proper equipment to do dual lathe. Most small shops will not be able to do it. Just for the same of it, I would call around and price the work and price new rotors, it may be simpler/cheaper in the overall to just purchase new ones. GL

Upgrade ASAP. If you wait till your stock one goes out, you have already damaged the VP4, maybe not detrimentally, but not worth a $10000 dollar chance.