Gamble

I wouldn't drive it.....its aDodge

So let me understand this. You are building a turbo 4.0. I would go with the HY myself. The 4.0 is a great engine, but its not cummins, you will need all the help you can get when it comes to spooling it up. Are you doing a stroker engine, what plans do you have for fuel upgrades? This could be an awesome build, but there needs to be a little more info.

The ends of the fuel lines tend to gather some type of corrosion on them. While it may be minor wen looking at it, it may be causing a leak for you. Try taking off your corresponding set of 3 lines and cleaning them off with a piece of emery cloth, wipe down and reinstall. No guarantees, but a pretty good chance it will resolve it. Good luck.

Dave, 1st things 1st: You need some gauges in your truck for a multitude of reasons. I won't go preaching to you, but I know when I need to replace a belt on my pump just by watching my fuel pressure gauge's abnormal behavior, and how long I can go before that behavior becomes crucial to address. Things like this make it worthwhile to have gauges. Off the soap box and here ya go. My particular injectors are my own, I sent off a set and had them completely redone top to bottom by DAP, new nozzles installed and sent back. They looked brand new when I received them. I trust DAP to tell me if there would have been an issue with them. As for the intake, do not waste your money on an aftermarket intake. I got mine out of a trade deal, or I wouldn't have it. You will get more benefit out of a BHAF than an aftermarket plenum. As for what I tow, everything I tow is on an 18' dove tail all metal pull behind trailer. It ranges from a zero turn mower, to 40 cross ties. I don't ever get over the 8K mark I don't believe, or at least I haven't in a while, and it wasn't with this trailer. I would have to look at my injector sheet to see what the bar was on mine, I don't want to miss quote anything.

I used white lithium on mine the first time I did it....the second time I used Fluid Film. I swear its the best darn lubricant I have ever gotten hold of.

Yeah, I have nothing special done to the truck. The normal upgrades I suppose. The only thing I have thats not in my sig is the upgraded sticks and I have an aftermarket intake plenum. I am sure I could tune out all the smoke, but I am still in the testing phase with the sticks to check for leaks and what not, so once I get done with all the initial stuff I will tune it out pretty close to all the way I think. I think I have enough fuel for a turbo upgrade, but on the same note, not too much for the HX and a boost elbow. I would be comfortable towing even with the comp on. High egt's have yet to be a problem for me.

I just installed a set of DAP 100's a couple weeks ago. I am a big fan. I get a pretty clean burn with the exception of hard throttle prior to making boost. I can drive it pretty much just like I did with stock injectors with very little smoke difference.

Thanks guys. I knew Donaldson's were good, but I always assume there is something better. Yank-Can the Racors be purchased at the big truck parts places?

For a long time now I have been contemplating better filtration for my truck as it is still using the stock filter housing.....post assassin pump. I have been wanting to purchase a VP max 3 micron dual remote filter kit from vulcan to take care of this and keep the pump clean and debri free also. I just couldn't pull the trigger as it seemed something more important always required my attention. As I cruised through craigslist the other night I stumbled upon a fella selling a brand new setup still in the box and plastic wrap. He had purchased it for his common rail, but ended up buying a FASS after a lift pump failure. He no longer needed and the price was right...1/2 price from the websites. I promptly called him, confirmed its status, and offered to purchase it. I picked it up today and will hopefully get it all installed her soon. I know there are better filters than the Donaldson's which are installed on it, but they are better than what I have now so I can't complain. Anyway....I am just excited to further increase the life of the cummins and wanted to share.....for some reason. I'll post a picture once I get it installed.

I can't imagine they would lead you astray either, especially since they talked you into the cheaper one. Maybe the difference is I will rarely tow over 12K. I pull a trailer a lot, but rarely have to go pick up a load like that. I wouldn't mind if mine got smoother, but I am and have always been more than happy with mine just as it is. As I said before, I usually start in 1st because its a touch jumpy taking off in 2nd unless I'm loaded, then its no big deal, but I still use 1st out of habit. One thing I will say though, its very easy to pick up power out of these trucks, even somewhat unintentionally. I have to do some looking to see where I should be at in terms of WHP after putting in my 100's vs going to a slightly larger snail down the road vs where I was yesterday...... I don't wish to put in a new clutch anytime soon so I need to see if I should tip toe through the tulips or run them down with juvenile apathy.

When I purchased mine, I spoke extensively with Valair...they did not ever mention anything about that....but rather told me I could grow into it, as i only had the Edge at the time. i just installed my 100's today, so its not like I been making a lot of power up until this point. I ll let you know if anything changes now that I have thrown some more horses down, as soon as I ensure I have no recurring leaks or weeping anyway.

I did the Valair Kevlar/Ceramic...I think its 500HP rated... I tow a fair amount its been a great clutch so far. I would imagine as good as this one does, you should have a great experience with the one you ordered. I am hoping to just breach the 450HP mark in the future so I went safe. If I ever go to bigger HP I will get a dual disc and try one out.

^^^^^ what he said. you can build a make shift trans jack with some wood........and a long bolt through the middle that you can put a washer and nut on the bottom side of the jack bucket.....Just FYI. Creative enginuity trumps adversity when you apply it.

I decided to try a different brand than I usually use when I did my last oil change. I swapped over to Schaeffers supreme for a try. I will say it got noticeably quieter after the change, and it seemed to stay cleaner (not instantly black) for a little longer. I intend to send a sample off to the lab after about 5k miles to see how its doing. I was hesitant to give it a try but they have a pretty good following and have been around in the oil biz for a minute.

I am curious as to the location of the tube. Can you advise where it is in relation to the motor mount, as I assume it would have to be just above that by your description.

I did not change mine, but I did not see any signs pointing to needing to either. From what I have been told after speaking with a few different fellas that work for south bend and valair: both stated to me the clutches are rated below what they will and can actually handle, so I imagine you should be good to go.

Just make sure you keep everything really clean when it comes to your clutch disk and plate, you don't want any foreign debris to get on it prior to install, i.e. grease, brake cleaner on the disk, brake fluid. etc. Clean the inside of your bell housing while you have it out and check your input shaft for any signs of compromise and obviously make sure you get it oriented correctly. I kept mine married when I swapped out my clutch and I did mine by myself but I suppose I cheated as I had a lift and a transmission jack. If you haven't ever taken out your trans cross member you're in for a treat. its really not to bad of a job. Which south bend are you putting in? Good luck

Yep, thats entirely my fault, and I send my apologies. I live just a few counties up from berea on I 64 and I 75. (right where you passed through to get there) I would have been happy to meet you while you were in the area.

Not to HJ, but I apparently missed the post where you notified of your travel intentions to KY. What part did you go to?

I would agree with jag, the laws of physics are the laws of physics, no matter how good your truck is, it cannot eliminate Newtons laws only make it less prevalent. You can go to a smaller tire, but somewhere (probably many times) your horns have been offset by a force holding against the steering, whether you were setting up against a log you didn't see or a curb, had to swerve to miss a jackwagon....options are numerous. All I am saying is any potential force against those rails is also a force against your steering box, no matter how small, and while it may take a long time to rear its head, its not improving your box life. The frame has to flex some, but not like these are capable. Mike, Maybe you just think its tight cause you don't have a brace on it to know the difference. J/K LOL

I have the steering box brace from PSC. I believe now they sell a synergy, but it looks just like mine. Anyway. I ran 35's on my 3rd gen mega cab just like my current 2nd gen. The steering components on my 99 are tighter than that of my CR. However, with this said, all the front end in my 99 is newer also. I personally think for what little money ($155.00) is invested the brace is a wise purchase to make. Common sense tells me its going to create a better functional environment for my steering components as it has to eliminate some or most of the slack associated with cranking the stock steering box around all the time. Every time you turn the wheel your frame rails go from I I (vertical) to / / (stress lean) \ \. and your steering components face unintended stresses also. So when you brace it it keeps your rails closer to I I (vertical) obviously the intended placement. This truck feels totally different to me going over bumps and such as compared to my CR. I would agree simply bolting on the brace your not going to really feel a "OMG" steering difference in tightness, but I think you will see both an improvement in steering response, and a longer life of your steering components.

Agreed, I truly haven't been a fan if my Mac since I bought it, but I haven't had any virus problems either since I've owned it. I am not very Mac savvy and lose my patience with it quite often. I get mad just having to track down a recent download because I have no option of its name or where it's going. Little crap like that make me hate it, but the forum issue is just an annoyance. I will try to dive into it a little more and see if I can locate anything useful. Thanks for the insight.

So I have been having issues trying to use the forum for a while now, but lately it has gotten to be a real PITA. I am posting this from my phone because I can't post it from my Mac. Every time I get on the forum via the laptop, it goes to the home page, then forum page, no issues. But anything I do from there either goes to a cached version, or goes to a page that tells the the server unexpectedly dropped the connection, this sometimes occurs when a server is busy, wait a few minutes and try again." Even if it goes to a cached version, it will go to the other on the next click, and I'm toast after that. I can start over but it's the same result. This is an internet issue, but also a forum issue. I say this because all the other forums I frequent work just fine on my wifi connection, however if I change over from my wifi connection to my cellular hotspot, this forum works just fine. I don't understand why it's just this forum i have problems with. Any help will be much appreciated. Thanks all.

^^^^ you said it Oak, I have no issue with a truck blowing some smoke, but for it to be the sole purpose of owning a diesel and exploited like it is pisses me off. Half of the trucks I know running around doing it are also never hooked to a damn thing, be it trailer, fiver, sled, or even loaded heavy to justify owning one for its built purpose. I too get the frequent smoke wave from the boys in the area, and I often get to talk to them about it when I go to work. Why is it so complicated for them to see, and when everyone gets cracked down upon, they will ***** the EPA had no right to do anything and it wasn't their fault. #$@%

Well, between work and work...I try to work. I recently tore down an old barn and built a new garage. If I am not working on the property, or at regular work, I am working to get my garage done. Once I get the concrete finished, I will hopefully get to slow down just a bit, but it remains to be seen. Oh and I have to install some new injectors soon....