
Everything posted by Gamble
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Tow Mirror Shake.
Rogan, for mine yes it does, it has slide snaps. (Screw driver pry up(gently) and pull off to release). If you can zoom on the picture i posted you may be able to see the plastic snaps, i would not want to remove them very much, i don't think they would survive to many removals.They snap onto the circular base. I think most of the power units slide towards the door to release, but don't take my word for it. I had to strategically use a pry bar to snap mine back in place as the base provided to much give to simply snap them back on. Just for anyone wondering, I also have the fancy base support brackets from dodge and I still had a lot of shake.
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Stacks Question
It's all perspective. I see a lot of stacked trucks I don't like. More so than ones that I do. I am very picky about the looks of MY vehicle. I personally hate chrome, so all of my stuff is blacked out. I have 5" exhaust (black) hence I do not run a tip period. I understand where your coming from. I would have a hard time cutting a hole in my bed also, but I have an in-bed toolbox that I could easily place a stack next to and not affect my bed space.
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Underhood hygiene
I do the same as Mike, with the exception that I use Simple Green. Mike, you crack me up posting up a picture for well...everything. Its awesome.
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Tow Mirror Shake.
Just thought I would post up real quick about an issue I was having with my tow mirrors. First off, my truck is a non power truck so needless to say I did not purchase power mirrors which have more "stuff" behind the mirror part and do not vibrate as bad. Anyway, like I said, I had a lot of vibration sitting at idle or traveling down the road, so I decided to take the mirror apart and sound deaden the back of the mirror to absorb some of the shake. Took me about 1 hour between being anal about it and shooting the bull with my bud that was changing his oil...Here is what mine looked like off the base after I placed the "Cool It" acoustical suppressor mat on. After getting them done, I started up the truck and it was immediately better at idle, still some blur, but on a smaller scale. Driving down the road it was all but gone, and I'm not sure if my eyes were trying to find it and making it up or if it was really that minute and just ever so slightly noticeable. All the same, I will report back after it gets warmed up, I will either be really pissed when the backing melts and drips off my mirror or very happy that it stays and works good. Good fix for now and if anyone else has this issue, so far I recommend it for a simple fix.
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Stacks Question
My first question is:1. If your son and friend called the slant/mitre cut OLD. exactly what do they consider the "in" on stacks. I personally like the look of a cat stack, or a mitre cut, I am not a fan of the aussie stacks and the 90* turn out just isn't my taste. I see them all the time and think they look good on certain vehicles, but just not for me. I would really like to do a single in my truck and I have an idea for a way to do it and virtually eliminate drone, but I cannot give away my idea just yet as I may be able to make money on it if I can pull it off. Regardless, I have to wait to get into a bigger garage with more adequate work space to tackle it.
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Replacing Fuel Injectors in a 2008 Duramax
Frog,I think anyone on here would be more than happy to help, however I think you will find little knowledge on the duramax on this particular forum. I would imagine the injectors are as hard to get to in the Dmax as mine were in my 6.0 SuperDuty, so yes, removing the cab is going to be the easiest. It was a miserable experience for me and I personally would think it would be easier to just sell it rather than replace injectors in it. LOL. Just poking at ya a little. Good luck.
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How many riders are out there?
Very nice Rogan,That is actually the kit I was initially planning to go with, the price point is right, but there are a couple of things I read about that can or could cause some issues. I have read and was shown proof of the caster adjustment becoming worn/spreading apart and allowing it to move causing some major issues In addition to that, there were several complaints about the small factory size 10MM bolt that holds the 3rd link to the stump being a weak point as it is not upgraded to a larger bolt like other kits and therefore you have one 10mm bolt taking all the abuse for the front axle as opposed to 2 from the factory. I do want to do a 3 link but I have considered going with the Clayton 6.5" kit with all the big nasty Johnny joints and the truss mount with a 3/4" bolt. Figured I might as well go all out the first time. I see you locked out 1st gear, I assume you did it via the solenoids that control the shifting. Can you elaborate a little on the location and procedure you went through on doing that?
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Cracked head
$1800 seems very high to me. You can almost buy another used but running 6bt for that. I haven't ever priced a head the work there in (for diesel) but it just seems like to much. Keep us updated.
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where do i start ?
I can't see your signature (if you have one) but if your running an auto you may want to look into a trans temp gauge also. But otherwise I agree with^^^^^^. Make sure you have sufficient fuel pressure for the VP or you will have a costly mistake on your hands.
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How many riders are out there?
Rogan, we're you running a 3 link or 4 link LA?
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Borgeson vs Red Head steering box
I was gonna tell ya they are very nice to have. Braces have become pretty affordable also. I have a PSC brace on mine and it has been rock solid so far. My 99 drives better than my 06 did.
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Destroyed a turbo with a hose clamp
Man that is a purdy snail. Glad you got it all back together and working better than before.
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current pic of the rig
Nice, I am partial to the ole long bed reg cabs.
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How many riders are out there?
I purchased a Cherokee a few months ago to build a trail machine. After years of beating my self up riding dirt bikes and sport quads I finally transferred to the comfort of an enclosed machine. I have several friends and associates that wheel on a regular basis. Anyway, Gonna be a slow build, but once I get moved and have a place to work on it regularly it will come along nicely I hope. I just sold my Harley about a year ago, sold my quad, sport bike, all of the fun toys. Its time to get back to some fun.
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Borgeson vs Red Head steering box
Do you have a box brace in place or still running factory setup?
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Members rides.
We really need to get more people involved in the members rides pages, thus helping out the TOTM also. Of all the hundreds of members that somewhat regularly cruise the site, we have very few trucks in the members ride pages. And some very active members still haven't posted up their rides. Lets get some action in there and show off these awesome trucks.
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Destroyed a turbo with a hose clamp
Mmmm brownies. Dang it Texas.
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Destroyed a turbo with a hose clamp
I hate suspense thrillers.
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True Jake Coming Soon for the Cummins
Sounds great in theory. But theory is all it would amount too. She is far to smart for that.
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True Jake Coming Soon for the Cummins
My wife is going to love me telling her about this. I know I can't afford one if they are in that $2-3000 range, they will have to make them more affordable to really market them, and the kit would sell like mad. I am impressed all the same, and they just sound so good.
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Longer than normal cranking
That is quite unusual, the only time I have experienced long crank issues was when my VP went out..... And it cranked until finally never starting. Lol. I agree with Mike, seems like it may be getting a little air in the fuel line, may not be leaking but letting losing prime some how due to that. Good luck. Hope you find it soon. I know how annoyed I get with things like this. It will drive you nutty.
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Destroyed a turbo with a hose clamp
Mike, have you received any news on the status of your turbo, I know it's early in the procedure but all the same, thought they may have gotten it and tore it down. Just curious.
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Thinking ahead........need opinions.
I appreciate all the replies and ideas some good info right there. Let me first say I have NOT made up my mind although it is going tk sound as though i have. I suppose my thought process on it is that I intend to line x the entire bed, and lowers, bout $900-$1100 dollars worth. I can prolly get a package deal to do the whole truck for not much more if I do the initial prep work, I have no trim on my truck to remove. I had read about the mud issue but I can't help but wonder if its not a degree of texture used. I have seen countless vehicles with the lowers done and have not seen anyone with staining issues there. You can get a UV protected version that is guaranteed not to fade, and the weight shouldn't really be an issue, couple hundred pounds of weight shouldn't kill the fuel mileage. It's like always having a passenger with you, and I haven't ever noticed a fuel mileage difference from having a passenger. Lots to think about and I suppose one thing is just simply talking to line X about it. Thanks again guys I do appreciate the replies.
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Thinking ahead........need opinions.
There may be a few threads on this on the CF, but I came here first because of how I highly value opinions here.I was cleaning out the ole girl a couple days ago and noticed I had a little drop of water up near the rear view....on the inside. Now we have had a few torrential down pours lately and I thought maybe just coincidence... all the same I knew that when my truck was redone prior to my ownership they did a poor job on the cab lights and left a mess of sealant around the center light so... my curiosity got the immediate best of me. I climbed up the side of the truck and while I found absolutely nothing wrong with the cab lights because I was distracted. I did find that the paint is chipping all around my cab lights and it really upset me. I use my truck and its not ever going to be a show queen but I take very good care of it and want it to last.This was the long way to say...I'm thinking about lineX-ing the whole truck... Basically I knew when I bought the truck it had been redone...Best I can tell they tore the truck down, put a new bed on (was a flat bed at some point) replaced fenders, possibly cab, and the whole truck was painted. They did an OK job on the paint, but it was not an expensive job for sure. Did a cheap, cheap (thats not a repeat, thats a cheap version of a cheap version) bed liner that is not worth a dime. I intended to take the truck and have the bed lineX-ed and the lower rockers, etc up the the body line, and around the fender wells as I can see original (red) paint color from rock chips, etc. Since the discovery of the chipped paint on top, for what it would cost to do the separate paint on top and lineX the rest that needs it, I considered just doing the whole thing and for the fact that I am starting an offroad Jeep build and will be trailering through some areas that would just be scratching up my truck anyway. I intend to own this truck for a long till death do us part time and don't want to have to deal with the other issues again down the road. WHEW....any thoughts on this guys. I would be taking the seats out, slide the bed out and removing all other things allowing for a complete spray. I haven't priced it yet but am strongly considering it.
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diesel newb from BC
Welcome, congrats on your first diesel. At least you bought a good one for a first one. You have a wealth of knowledge to sort through coming to this site.