diesel4life

I think Dynamic could add some valuable articles to the tech section here if he is willing to share some of his knowledge. There are a few on here with some basic knowledge but no real trans techs that I'm aware of. Even a few pointers on the more basic DIY jobs would be greatly appreciated by myself and I'm sure many others. What do ya say Dynamic?

Optilube XPD and Optilube winter blend, FPPF, Schaeffers, and Staynadyne are all good quality antigel that scored better HFRR improvements over 2 cycle oil. The Optilube was ranked the best of the group, but they're all good products that have been extensively tested by all the major OEMs. You probably have to order most or all of them but once you have it and more is needed I typically have my order on the doorstep within 3-4 days. I have a Schaefer's rep within an hour or so of me but I've ordered off their website in the past and had it in about the same time frame. Ordering from the website costs more than if you deal with a rep personally but if you do order off the website they do free shipping on orders over $75.00.

Which makes me wonder why not just go buy a quality fuel treatment in the first place and be done with it... I know there is a strong belief in 2 stroke as a lube on this site but if you need an anti gel there are additives on the market that will prevent gelling AND does a better job at improving the HFRR score. I'm not picking at you specifically but I have seen several comments like this about adding both and I dont see the benefit of doing so over a good additive.

Is there a relay for that model or does it just plug in to the factory harness? How is it adjustable? If it has a screw with an internal spring perhaps you've got some gunk in there. I would pull it apart and clean and reinstall. Also, it sounds silly, but next time its acting up give the motor a couple of light taps with a hammer. If it takes off and runs good pressure again, chances are either the brushes or motor are on their way out.

Did you find the miss or do you believe its tranny related? What are the standard oil change intervals on that engine? Seems odd that at 5k any modern oil would be depleted under normal driving conditions. I run Schaeffers 9000 5w20 in the wife's Mountaineer at 20k mile intervals, and still have a substantial amount of TBN at time of change. I could push it further but that's about what we put on the Mountaineer in a year, and its cheaper and simpler to just do a change and an annual sample to monitor engine health. They're also almost all highway miles, if she did a lot of stop and go I would never run it that long.

Good to see more people getting together! Unfortunately there is nobody even close to me. MnToms from the area and we got to meet up last summer when he was here visiting family, but that's been the extent of it to date. I mean no offense to anyone when saying this, but Mike has tried calling out for help several times over the last year or so. Between posting up the site donations (or the lack there of), the idea of charging for classifieds and site paying vendors...looking back the writings been on the wall for some time now. I am trying to remember what I donate every year, and I want to say its around $30-40 bucks...right in line with what TDR charges annually which I feel is reasonable. I'm sure there are members that pay more but if everybody committed SOME every year, the financial burden could be removed from Mike. I could be wrong but reading into Mikes posts, he seems plum burned out and that seems to be the main driver. Unfortunately with my severe lack of computer skills, averaging 1000 hrs of OT every year and raising 2 handsome young men I'd be totally useless in this department. It would be great to see a solution work out thats favorable to Mike but ultimately the decision is his and I can certainly respect what he decides to do.

They haven't used #1/#2 blend here in years, and I've never had any problems. Even last year when the temps dropped down 20-30 degrees below average, our equipment always started and ran just fine and no anti gel was used. That being said, we know the owner of the fuel station and are very comfortable with his fuel. Stick to bigger name fuel stations or stations that have a good reputation with the local farmers. Farmers stick together, and if they're getting some bad fuel the word gets out quick! I use Schaeffers Diesel treat year round instead of 2 stroke oil. The only time I'll dose my fuel with an antigel is if it gets cold (-15 and colder). I order from a local rep but you can order from their website and anything over $75 qualifies for free shipping.

If fuel gels, you lose volume and therefore pressure. The first place fuel will gel is in the filters, and your gauge will reflect that.

Logic says it has to have something to do with the check ball/spring, I just don't understand how cold temps could affect those parts. I first had this problem back in December when we had a week of sub zero weather, and every time I ran the truck after a good cold soak the pressure would slowly climb up to the mid-upper 20s and then drop to normal pressures. Once things were warmed up a bit I never had the problem again. I even drove to upstate NY where it was -20 and the issue never repeated itself but I never shut the truck off either. Then the weather warmed back up and the problem went away until this morning when the temps were about -7 and the problem came back. I'm going to pull the spring and ball and have a look but I don't expect any problems, I just replaced both over the summer.

Anybody ever have any EXCESSIVE fuel pressure issues? It seems that whenever we see sub zero temps my fuel pressure will slowly but steadily climb up to about 26-27 psi before "something" gives way and the pressure just drops back to normal pressures and runs perfect. It has happened 7 or 8 times this winter and every time its been below zero out. I can't see how temps could cause the spring/ball to freeze, if in deed they were frozen that would mean I have moisture in the fuel system and would have bigger problems. Any thoughts?

Is this the same guy you talked to me about the other day?

Find you another specialist! Even some early 3rd gen CR engines had a 47RE, but for the most part the 48 series came into play in 03 when Cummins went to CR.

Yes, 180 is OEM (at least on the early 24 valve engines). Next time you want to buy an OEM 190 stat, order one for a 3rd gen. Don't ask me why because I don't know, but the 2nd gen 190 part number is different than the 3rd gen 190. They all drop right in, even the 200 for the 6.7, and the 3rd gen 190 is almost half the price as the 2nd gen 190. True story!

Yep, its probably junk, you'll probly wind up on the side of the road shortly after you install it. I'll do you a favor and take it off your hands "for parts only"!! You don't have to thank me, just looking out for my fellow forum family members!

Front abs was an option on the 99s, yours may or may not have it.

Anybody heard from Russ? Parts of R.I. got it pretty good, and he hasn't checked back in since he started this thread. This is what we got Friday, the deck and table was cleared the day before. Its coming down out there pretty good again, probably snowed another 4-6" today. Was out back today and its well over my knees, and I'm about 6'2".

The Raptor and AD100 motors are the same...I mounted a new Raptor motor on an old AD100 pump a year or so ago.

HVLP is the way to go...but if its your first go around I would be hesitant to encourage you to try it on a vehicle that you have high expectations of. Painting is an art, the prep is the most time consuming and difficult aspect of spraying a vehicle and every single imperfection WILL show up regardless of how many coats you apply and how good a job you do spraying. I'm not trying to talk you out of it, just beware the outcome most likely will not be as good as the factory paint. I've sprayed a dozen or more cars over the years and am by no means an expert, but I learned enough to decide that spraying a bed liner around the bottom would produce better results for the reasons your finding out now...its dang hard to blend a panel in and have it look right. With the bed liner there is no blending, you run the mask line and go with it, and it still looks pretty good, but that's all a matter of personal preference.

I would personally not do an entire panel with puff cans...too hard to get consistent even coats and it will be evident in the sun light.

Great story!

Actually, they are one year 7 months apart. One is just growing faster than the other..lol.

Lookin good. You plan on shooting a couple coats of color before you clear it?

My stunt double called in sick today!

Just don't use anything with crumb in it. Most DIY bedliners use rubber grindings or something similar for the texture and they tend to rub out when objects are drug across it. The top of the line bed liners like Line X and Rhino Liner achieve their texture through a spray pattern. Monstaliner is the only DIY bed liner that I know of that does the same.