Yankneck696

Swapping between 98.5-00 & 01-02 Dodge Cummins ISB 24v VP44 Engines Many people need to change their engine out due to “53” blocks, catastrophic failures or just plain wear & tear. Most do not know about the differences between the two “Sub generations” as I will call them. I will try to explain it all in this article. I will also give known ways to accomplish the swap & why. I will also give an alternative way that I presume will work, but cannot guarantee.Firstly, for some basics. If at all possible, get a replacement engine of the same sub generation if at all possible to make your life easier. Second, if you must use an engine from a different sub generation, GET A FULL DONOR VEHICLE.For the proven method of swapping sub generations, you WILL need the ECM, PCM, full engine harness & PCM at a minimum. Now, there have been a few cases where either the donor truck or recipient truck has the factory security system. In these cases, you may need the gauge cluster and/or the CTM (Central Timer Module). Here is an exerpt from http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/ECM/ that explains most of it & I will denote my changes to it with “**” at the beginning & end.98.5-00: “ Engine RPM and timing are derived from the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) on 1998-2000 models. A 35 tooth tone ring with a gap where the 36th tooth should be is bolted to the crankshaft. A hall effect sensor registers each tooth as it passes and sends the signal to the ECM. The tooth gap corresponds to 60 degrees BTDC of cylinder #1. A Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) senses a hole ** Slot ** in the back of the camshaft drive gear to check for TDC of cylinder #1. This signal is used for diagnostic purposes and is not used to control the fuel system. ** It is also used to drive the tachometer to my understanding** Here is a picture of the back of the 98.5-02 gear”. **Notice the depth of the slot!** Picture captured from www.ebay.com Now, here is the crank & crank gear from: http://www.dieselbombers.com/dodge-diesel-tech-articles/15100-ram-tough-rebuild-cummins-engine-specs-brief-history.html“ The upper most crankshaft is the first design used from 1983-1997.5 and from 1999.5-2002 for Dodge applications. The crank in the middle is the second design with the crankshaft position sensor trigger ring that was used from 1997.5-2002 for non-Dodge applications. The lower inlay shows the that the trigger ring is two pieces and can easily be replaced without crank removal. The second-generation crankshaft is forged steel and induction hardened as well. It also has 8 flywheel bolts and includes two dowel pin holes for flywheel location. This crankshaft was used from 1997.5-1999.5 for Dodge and 1997.5 through 2002 for non-Dodge application. In Figure 4 you’ll notice the slightly different relief as well as other differences. This crankshaft uses a bolt-on crankshaft position trigger ring, which is manufactured in two pieces. It could actually be replaced in-chassis if it needed to be done that way”.If you read the article, you will see that it is a 2 piece gear that is replaceable with the crank in place. I do not think the 01-02 Dodge crank is machined for it, as per the article.Another possible option for this gear replacement is a product from Destroked that is a tone wheel, sensor, bracket & hardware to go on the front of the crankshaft. Here is the link: http://www.destroked.com/prod_tach_kits.php It is the “36 minus 1 tach kit”. Although, this seems like it will replace the crank wheel, I am not positive that the signal is exact. Please contact Destroked for more info on that.The only other differnece that I can think of between the sub generations is the MAP sensor, as the 98.5-00 reads a different value than the 01-02.01-02: Now, again from the article :http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/ECM/ : “The crankshaft position sensor was deleted for 2001 and 2002 models; engine speed, crankshaft position, and injection timing information will be derived from the camshaft position sensor signal. Notches are cut into the rear face of the camshaft gear. A hall effect sensor registers each notch as it passes, and sends the signal to the ECM. A missing notch corresponds to TDC of cylinder #1”. Here is the cam gear: This image captures from a Fourwheeler.com article: http://www.fourwheeler.com/vehicle-reviews/131-0407-dodge-ram-cummins-upgrade/ As far as I can count, there are 60 or 61 teeth minus 2 (Difficult to count from the image). Now, NOTICE that the 2 missing teeth are beside each other. To compare that with the crank gear from the 98.5-00 crank gear (Counting a 2:1 rotation of the crank/cam rotation), the older crank signal would have 72 teeth, minus 2, but the 2 “Minus” teeth would be on opposite sides of the cam gear. Now, go back up to the text of the 98.5-00 cam gear & remember that I mentioned the depth of the notch? That is depth from the outer edge of the gear. Notice the difference of about 1/4” difference (From my uncalibrated eyeballs)? Also, the depth inward to the face of the notches is deeper on the 01-02 gear. To me, this means that along with the cam gear, you will also need the full gear housing & 01-02 CPS (Cam Position Sensor) to make the 01-02 electronics work on a 98.5-00 engine. Just block off the Crank sensor hole, or leave the sensor in, but not connected. MAP sensors: The 98.5-00 MAP sensor reads a different value than the 01-02 MAP sensor. Also, the 01-02 MAP sensors read the same values, but have different plugs. If swapping between 01 & 02, you can use your original MAP sensor, or get an adapter from many diesel suppliers that adapts the plug.Other than these issues, there should be no differences that will throw a CEL (Check Engine Light), or make any driveability differences. Author: Ed Grafton Screenname: Yankneck696 View full Cummins article

Any diesel built before ULSD was introduced should have 2 stroke (Or other PROPER lubricant) added to the fuel. It is the process of removing the sulphur that killed the lubricity, not really the sulphur, itself. Ed

I have been backing up to & backing up trailers since I was 9 years old. My Mom couldn't do it, so I did when going to the dump. Why bring a trailer to the dump weekly, you ask? Well, I lived in a wealthy town & collected bikes, minibikes, gokarts, lawnmowers & fixed & sold/gave them away. I also picked up reel to reels, TVs, HiFis & replaced tubes in them & sold them (Yeah, I am dating myself. This one time at band camp... Oh, at the boat yard, I had just hauled a 29' Formula & had to get it in the shop. There was 1' of clearance. It was Friday after work & the boys had been drinking. 4 of them come out to direct me. All are giving me different directions & 1 of them was intentionally giving me wrong directions. I shut the truck down. Pit it in 1st (Granny box with 5.38 gears). Went in the shop, poured a stiff 8 count Mt *** & Coke. Sucked it down. Told the boss, "Keep all these drunk fools right here. Walked out to the truck, Started it up, Pulled it forward, closed my eyes & figured it. Opened them & backed it right in. 3" on 1 side & 9" on the other. Moved the drill press (Heavy mother) to get 2' pass space, poured another stiff Mt *** & Coke, pulled out my tape measure & got 21" from the prop to my boss's head. Sat down & looked at Kenny(Who was intentionally steering me wrong) & said, "I never need your assistance for anything, you A$$****". Sat down & the boss looked at me & said, "That's how you drive a damn trailer". I asked him how he liked it & he said, "I never turned around to watsh. I was just watching the eyes watching you & knew it was alright, until I saw theit eyes focusing right behind me & then I heard you clutch & jam it in 1st & shut down. I knew it was fine". Yeah, I worked for a crazy man, but learned the most in in my life in 3 years of working for him...... Ed

If there was space, I'd just stuff a 350 amp Leesce Neville in there with an outboard rectifier setup. Ed

We have no knock sensor on our trucks. I still say to investigate the ignition switch. Ed

I checked out their site. Not bad. I'll call the place I worked in the 90s & ask if he has any connections for US built parts for our trucks. Ed

Heck, at $25 I'll replace them yearly. I have remanned hundreds of alternators when I worked at a shop. With the part numbers for the diode pack & brushes, I can make a tutorial for the members. Ed

If you can get the part number for the diode pack, that would be cool. Also which alternator you have. I have good numbers on mine, but want to replace them anyways. Ed

If all else fails, let me know. I "May" be able to flash a spare ECM I have for you to test out. Ed

You have a high chance for it to run just fine with the same yeaar/trans. The only issue I can think of is if the donor or recipient truck has factory security. Ed

There are several circuts in the ignition switch. Look at the schematics for it in the FSM & you may decide to look into it further. Ed

The one I posted had the ISB wiring on it, at least for testing purposes. Ed

Could it be something in the ignition switch, by chance? Ed

http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/ECM/ This site will show how the APPS functions.Measure total resistance from the "C" & "A" pins on the existing APPS & go to Radio Shack to get a potentiometer to replace it with. Use a switch to replace the "Idle validation" section of it. On those schematics, you MUST use the "ISB" & not the "Dodge" wiring. It's on the "Left" side. Ed

A traffic jam here in Kanab, UT is more than 2 vehicles & a quad at the stoplight..... Love it. Ed

I will check & make sure I haven't missed or helped in any specific problem tomorrow. My Dad had 11 strokes total & passed last week. That is the reason I have not been around. If anyone has anything I left hanging, please PM me. PLEASE do not flood me with condolences, as I am having a hard enough time with this. Sometimes life sucks. Thank you, Ed

Soak it in some used trans fluid & add acetone if you like. Store OUTDOORS overnight. That should loosen stuff up. Download the rebuild manual from Holset. Pretty easy, if you follow the directions. Ed

http://www.extension.harvard.edu/open-learning-initiative/intensive-introduction-computer-science A good primer & free. Download all the sessions, then install Quicktime. It opened up a few roadblocks for me. Tiy will see that you start with "Scratch". It can be quite a bit of fun. Ed

Ed

Then, it will be the same as the Garrets, I think. On superturbodiesel.com there was a guy that was working on the Garret turbos & that frequency sounds similar. I'll have to see if I can dig it up. It was several years ago. Ed

https://www.google.com/search?q=S300V+110+size&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8#q=S300V+110+turbo+size http://65.110.12.166/showthread.php?p=4293045 Post 136 Ed

If you have any coding experience, you could take the 351ve arduino project going & add a PWM driver shield with some tweaks to the code & run it with that. Ed

What to do is see if you can get the manual for the turbo from BW & pull the compressoe & turbine cover. Measure the wheels & we can see if it will work for the 24 valve. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Navistar_DT_engine Ed

http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthread.php?19222-Borg-Warner-s300v-turbo-controller-module http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=9&ved=0CFYQFjAI&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.turbos.bwauto.com%2Ffiles%2Fpdf%2Fbw_ITEC_DT_Series_EPA04_to_07-B.pdf&ei=in0FVZ_EEpXSoASozIGQBg&usg=AFQjCNGxTAx8Bzjs-DvTFDWLEgjhmPL4Bg&sig2=BN56apJYB6SyYYzngJJF9Q&bvm=bv.88198703,d.cGU Ed