Yankneck696

It all depends on the issue. Please PM me about it. Ed

You do not fry a Quad from jumping other vehicles. I have jumped many.The reason the Quad goes bad when the host truck is jumped, is due to the inrush of current being too much to handle. The capacitors are discharged & get a huge amount of current draw that goes through semiconductord & pops them.Ed

I concur. Also, the fluid only has additives that last so long & if properly adjusted &kept in the proper temp ranges, suggested intervals should be just fine. If you want added capacity, put a deeper pan & if you are just plain anal, do the pan pump & filter...Ed

Michael will have a unit towards the end of the week, or latest Monday. You will get to see the install & all.... Get yer popipin corn ready....Thank you all for your intrest...Ed

I am going to have both the gauge pod unit & the cubby hole unit ready at the same time. Wire has been an issue, as I have gotten shipments of wrong products. I also just have to finalize mounting for the gauge face unit today. Then, the engraver can start cutting for me & once the proper wire comes, I can produce. I have 50 switches waiting for wire & faceplates ready to go.Ed

I;m gonna replace my 2nd Airdog FRRP with a 12 volt Dewalt cordless drill & a Chevy oil pump...Ed

The other difference in ECMs is that the manual ECM has no "Torque control" as the Auto ECM does. It was put on to keep the engine from destroying the 47RE stock trans. You can remove some of it with the Smarty programmer, or use the RAD box, but as you mod your truck, you will find it's not needed to remove. Ed

OK, time to debunk some myths...When properly flushing a transmission, there is a clear 6" round tube. It is about 4' long. It is filled from the top with new trans fluid. The top end is connected to the trans cooler input. Bottom end is connected to the transmission line. At the bottom, there is a sliding piston.You start the truck & the pressure from the transmission pump pushes old trans fluid into the cylinder. That in turn moves the piston. In turn, the piston pushes the new ATF into your trans through the cooler input.THAT'S IT !!!!!Now, you have cycled all of your transmission fluid with new through the cooler lines.Now, you remove the pan, replace filter & adjust bands properly.My Tahoe was underwater for about 40 minutes in the swamps of Floriduhh. Strawberry milkshake came out.I abused the snot out of it for 4 more years without ever touching the trans again. I went through 3 engines, but the trans was fine.Ed

I recently opened up a high mile 47RE that I got for a core to rebuild. No varnish, no junk. Personally, I think that doing a proper flush (using the trans cooler lines) & then changing out the filter/adjusting the bands will be just fine. I did it in my 96 Tahoe (Everyone told me not to) & it did another 68,000 miles without incident.IF you do the flush & not the filter/bands, you are just wasting time.Ed

OK, without a diaphragm, how many of these pumps can we grow if we screw with them? Ed

That code can be interpeted many ways. Could have just been a glitch in the wiring. Or, with the higher pressure to assist the timing piston, along with added lubricity/BTUs of the 2 stroke, you may be helping the piston along...Ed

I have only used NAPA filters on thousands of boats for over 25 years. From outboards to 8-92 Detroits. Not one single failure. Probably 200 Detroit services, 500-600 Perkins, 80+ Volvo diesels, 300+ outboards, 500+I/O & straight drive gas engines.The only thing that I don't use from NAPA is the Racor Fuel/water primary filters. Everything else is NAPA. Oil, Fuel, transmission, some large steering setups, air filters (when equipped).Not 1 single failure. Also, when checking records, I have seen some filters on for a year that are just plain rusty. I do not see that with NAPA.Also, when you go to NAPA, they actually know how to look things up iin a book. Try finding a secondary fuel filter for a Westerbeke genset.... In stock at NAPA for $3.10 (last time I got one) & $14+ from Westerbeke.OK, rant over...Ed

I told my NAPA guy that I needed a 1/2" inline filter. He had it in stock....Ed

The NAPA filter will just clamp on the 1/2" line. You can blow through it easily, so I think iw will be a minimal restriction.Ed

For what you want to do, they make a cheap inline filter for 454 powered motorhomes in 1/2". Usually stocked at most NAPAs. It's about $10.00 & very little restriction.Ed

1 last test this week to confirm something, then next week I go into production. 25-50 will be made next week, depending on faceplates.Thank you,Ed

Personally, I have sworn up a storm dozens of times that I left the MPG fooler on, then tried to start the truck on a cold morning. With the MPG fooler, the engine is seeing 143* @ the IAT. you get NO grid heaters. Then, you whack yourself upside the head & say "WTF" !!!!! You have to turn the MPG fooler off & wait for the 25 second fuel pump run, then you get the heaters back. This is why I want this to be completely visible with an LED to indicate that a function is selected. To me, that would mean a column dash pod, pillar pod or a gauge pod affixed to the dash pad for other options. I will definitely entertain other ideas, but if it's just a "Project box", I can't have it engraved like the cubby plate & the gauge pod plate. I guess we could also produce a fully wired unit for custom mounting with some stick on engraved lables if needed. In all honesty, I am trying to suit all needs, but still keep this affordable & professional looking. I have done alot of brainstorming with Michael & Jacob to bring this product to a much more user friendly device with appealing looks, too. Of course, in my truck it'll be the best looking part, as the whole dash has disintegrated & the lower is barely there....Ed

Excellent suggestions.... Keep them comming....Ed

Diesel4life, would you mind getting some pics posted? If you can & actually go further to help produce this unit for your vintage truck, you will get a SEVERE discount on a unit.Otherwise, if there is no real place in your truck to mount it, the.re will be a 2" round faceplate availible to mount to a gauge pod.Thank you,

I have been working closely with Michael (www.mopar1973man.com) & Jacob (Jkidd AKA www.dieselautopower.com) to come up with a simple & user friendly switch setup for distribution. I will have final pictures up at the beginning of next week for the faceplate. There will be 2 mounting options: 1. Mounted in the cubby hole under the airbag switch with a professionally engraved mounting plate. It will involve removing the dash surround (CAREFULLY) & 3 screws to pull the cubby, then install the plate with the same 3 screws. You can always return it to stock for warmer times, or resale. THIS option will be the 1st release. 2. A 2" round unit to fit to a standard 2" gauge pod that needs to be mounted by the end user. There will be some suggestions for mounting for the common gauge pods, but it will be YOUR responsibility. The unit will be very simple to use with an indicator light to let you know the setting is still selected. Anyone who has used the MPG switch knows that when left on, you get no grid heaters upon startup if the MPG switch is selected & you have to turn it off, then wait for the fuel pump cycle to end. That is the reason that the indicator light will be connected to CONSTANT POWER. End user will have to ensure that HIGH IDLE is enabled in their ECM software. There is a simple test for this that will be announced on a new page to be developed on Home Page of Mopar1973Man (NOT up yet, but soon). If you do not have the software enabled, you can go to a Dodge dealer for a reflash of your ECM at whatever they charge, or flash the option with a Smarty. This will be purchasable through www.dieselautopower.com & after the faceplate & one other refinement, you can place a preorder through them. Once the design is finalized, I will post instructions & pictures of it. Install will be a simple 30 minute job with OEM style connectors, even for a novice. Thank you for your interest. Ed

Update 10/15/15! The Mopar1973man.com Cummins High idle switches are for sale again in the Forum store http://forum.mopar1973man.com/store/product/41-mopar1973man-high-idle-switch/ The Mopar1973man.com Cummins High Idle Kits are no longer sold through DAP.

Also check for slop in the rag joint comming from the column to the box.Ed

I believe getting 12VDC is the common test for the wiretap.Ed

Damaged crossover tube from the first install?Ed

SUbscribe to this thread. It will be announced. Just a bit of negotiation & I should have 25 units done in 3-4 weeks for purchase. I will not sell direct, but through a well respected distributor.I will have a small rebate for active duty/reserve/fire=ems/police. That will be done directly through me, as I do not want to saddle the distributor with the hassle. On a further note, I have plans (woke from a dream) of a fully automatic system that would start on 3 cyl, till 140*, then 6 cyl & then disable & turn on the MPG fooler once the fuel pedal is pressed. That way you don't have to remember to turn off the MPG switch for each cold start. This will be funded by initial purchases, due to starting on a low budget. Thank you for your intrest,Ed