Ilikeoldfords

The latch mechanisms are very well known to wear out and not release properly on ball couplers. You used to be able to get rebuild kits for them but most all companies steered away from that for legal reasons. The trick now is to just have the coupler replaced. They are cheap and most every trailer shop will do it for a reasonable price.

To follow up on this, the roads in North Dakota really suck compared to roads in Washington, Oregon, and Idaho. I am running a pretty wide tire and couldnt imagine running anything more narrow just because of the road conditions here. Like you said, I feel that if I had narrow tires, the road would be pushing and pulling me all over the place.

Thats why I was wondering. Washington never labeled their pumps when I lived there. I will start checking around at the pumps. I would assume with how the climate is here the fuel is winterized. It would be tragic madness if its not. Thanks for the thoughts guys.

I am surprised they offered to fix it for free this time. My comp had internal issues at one point and I sent it in for repair. They even admitted to me that it had failed but they charged me the $200 service fee anyway. I was just happy to have it back so I didnt question it. I am very happy with edge products but I hope I never have to send one in again.

Is there a good way to know what fuel you are getting at the station? Will they usually post signs or notices? We didn't have winterized fuel in Washington so I'm all new to this cold business.... Thanks tons for the info too!!

It lives outside 24/7. We live on campus so there isn't really anyway to park it inside. I keep it plugged in at night and i will start plugging it in at work during the day pretty soon. I run 2 stroke oil as well. I just don't want to wake up to go to work and drop the wife off at class and have the truck not run because of something as simple as gelled fuel.

So what is a good anti gel additive I can use? I have been eyeballing the Howe's Diesel treatment stuff since that's what I sell at work. I'm sure once it gets cold enough it probably wont matter what I put in the tank. Thoughts?? The truck is the only vehicle we have between the two of us so it needs to be reliable through the winter.

You might be able to find a good deal on craigslist too. Lots of people buying and selling rims/tires there. That's where I found mine. Someone had bought a brand new truck and went straight to the tire shop to get fancy rims put on. I was able to buy his stock rims and tires for cheap.

I agree with changing the wheels out. I had the 16.5 stock rims on my old ford truck and I spent a month checking everywhere for tires. I couldn't find a set in a close to stock size for less than $1000!!! Ended up buying wheels and new tires for less than $800.

Well I guess I have some experimenting to do. The only problem I have is its only about 5 miles to work one way. I know its really not good on the motor because it never gets a chance to fully warm up anyway. I want to try and help it any way I can.

Do the PCM's have to be flashed for the particular model and year of truck? Like the ECM's do? I only ask because I don't know myself and it might be why OP is still having problems with it.

So based on experience or thought or whatever you have, is it better to run the cardboard in between the intercooler and radiator or in front of both coolers? I would assume in front of both coolers because it would get that IAT up a bit, but I could be totally wrong too.

I have also noticed this as well. There is definitely a liberal majority in this area and Fargo. I am resisting the best I can though. I think it has to do with the big Universities in the area here.

Awesome. Thanks the info. I might just start with the cardboard set up and see what difference I see. That will tell me if the $75 is worth it for the real winter front.

Speaking of winter fronts, what is a good brand or company to get one from? We moved to North Dakota this summer and I am getting ready for the colder winters up here..

That petcock is actually a needle valve. This goes inline before the gauge to protect the gauge from the water hammer the pumps create. You will also need some fuel rated plastic line. I believe 1/8" is plenty big enough. That's what I run at least. The only other things you will need are the fittings to put it all together. I personally don't know about where to tap the gauge into on a CR cummins. Someone more intelligent than I will have to fill ya in on that.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10202221720123254 Not sure if this link will work or not. I will try it though....

I am not defending china in any way here... What makes you think it wont be a good bearing? Back when I was selling trailer parts, we sold all kinds of brands from Fed Mogul, Timken, SKF, (Chicago Rawhide), and the Chinese off brands too. I will be totally honest, we had way more warranty issues with the USA brands than the Chinese stuff. Not to mention we sold the Chinese parts at least 3 to 1 to the US parts. I understand if you want parts made here and I am not saying in anyway the Chinese parts are better, I am just saying that it wouldn't worry me too much if it were my truck.

I don't know what brand of gauges you are looking at but my ISSPRO ranges between 0-40 psi. Its a really happy medium. You wont over boost it stock but its a little more accurate than 0-50. You really should get one that starts at 0 psi.

Just in the short time we've been here, we have figured this out haha! Time to bundle up!!

I never had a problem personally but one of my dad's trucker buddies had some problems with them. Was probably DOT or someone.

Boy, I really am out in the middle of nowhere haha!! Thanks for the info about that custom truck shop. Might make a trip down one day.

Just wondering if anyone is near me. I am in Grand Forks so not really near anything haha. Just trying to make some friends in case I need some help on the old dodge :whistle:

Before you go with bigger leaf springs, be sure you arent going to over weight the axle. I sold trailer parts for a few years at the company here... http://sixrobblees.com/. I learned a lot about the running gear for trailers and the margins can get quite close. If the axle is only rated for 2000#, then the hubs are considered maxed out at 2300# per axle and the bearings start breaking down or over heating at that point. Just a thought, wouldnt want you to loose a hub going down the road.

Its also amazing how many dealerships dont know what the heck they are doing either. Went down to get the ECM reflashed after that bad superchip flash that I had. They ended up flashing the PCM instead and told me the PCM and ECM are the same unit!!!!