Homestead

Diesel fuel additives have been a debate for years with the argument going for and against with no real out come. Personally, I believe in them. I bought my 02 brand new. At first I never bothered with additives until I killed a VP at 10,000 miles. From that point on, the old girl has had additive added every fill. Sure it's an added expense but worth it in my mind considering the poor quality of today's diesel. Now, I am sitting at 260,000 miles, with 250,000 of those on the replacement VP and at the moment, sitting at about 120,000 miles on an OEM Carter lift pump, albeit moved down to the frame. Not sure if it's available in the US, but up here in Canada, I use Milligan biotech. It's a Saskatchewan company that makes it from corn. http://milliganbiofuels.com/ I'm not employed or sponsored or anything by this company, I pay money to use their product because it works. I do get a small mileage gain, about 60 miles a tank, the truck does run a bit smoother and also quieter. One way of noticing the quieter operation is the few times I didn't fill the bottle with additive that I carry (I buy it in 1 gallon jugs) and had to refuel. After driving the truck home after however many miles, I would pour my additive fill into the truck and while it was sitting there idling for a few minutes, you can actually hear the motor "smooth out" a little and quiet down a noticeable but not huge amount. 200ml to a 110 liter fill only works out to about $5 every fill. Sure at the end of the year it's added up but at the same time, what is the coast of a dead VP on the side of the highway going to cost? You will always get arguments either way, but I tend to believe that a lot of these come from the arm chair pilots who frequent all these internet forums and have to tell the story....I know a guy who knows a guy who might have used it but he didn't like it so it must suck................sound familiar? If you want to use an additive, go for it, it's your truck. If you don't want to, then don't. As to what you use, your choice there also. No one makes the perfect anything so it's what works for you. Jeff

The senders in these trucks vary greatly when it comes to being accurate.As mentioned, short box trucks get the smaller tank or 34 gallons.My old girl takes on it's average fill 120 liters, it holds 127. Yes I run it down low. I run the same route, there and back everyday so I can push it when it comes to levels. When my low fuel light comes on, I know I have 160 kilometers (100 miles) left in the tank and still be at my 120 liter fill.I have never worried about my mpg, I only worry about how far I can go on a tank. Getting x number of mpg's means nothing when your 50 or 60 miles from your next tank of fuel. I want to know that I can make the next fuel stop or not.By monitoring your mileage per tank, you can also see issues happening if the numbers fall off.Every time I change a sender, my own or someone else's, I make sure it reads empty/full where it supposed to before I drop it into the tank. It irks me just as much as you guys are when it reads empty or full and isn't.Jeff

Yep, about 3 minutes after the 3rd Gens hit the dealers, anything 2nd Gen was ignored. I'll make some calls to a few people I know up here in the Great White North, I might be able to drag something up.....no promises though. The EVS system is a very simple simple system when it comes to wiring and what it actual monitors or does. You at one time had your choice of going with just the keyless entry system or stepping it up and going the full alarm system.....basically a keyless entry kit that for the most part monitored your dome light. Open the door and the "alarm" goes off. Have you looked into the alarm side of the EVS system? You may have better luck finding one of those kits compared to the keyless entry kit. I'm looking at this from the point of most trucks came with keyless right from the factory. The EVS system was more for the stripper fleet type trucks that didn't come with keyless. A lot of dealers added it to their trade ins to bump the truck up in options for resale. The last time I looked into the alarm side, EVS II, they were available for about $200 and that was about 5 years ago or so. Actually, it's your lucky day!!! While typing this, I was checking a few sources that I have used in the past....... Avondale Dodge in Arizona shows part #82204681 as in stock with an online price of $42.66 I have dealt with these guys a few times and I'm in Alberta Canada, just a few mile away I would say. They have beat my local dealer price delivered to my door every time. http://www.avondaleauto.com/wholesale-parts.htm Worth a phone call to make sure they have it and save a ton of hassle. Hope it helps!! Jeff

The EVS stuff is all dealer item parts. Unfortunately Mopar let all that stuff slide and it isn't available other than what is sitting on a dealers shelf.Best bet would be to hit a local dealer and see what he can round up.Wrecking yards might produce something but again, unless you know what your looking for, could be a challenge.Some Canadian dealers might have something on the shelf, the EVS systems were a lot more popular up here than in the US but over the years in my search for parts to repair systems, it has gotten leaner and leaner.SorryJeff

Fuel line is all 3/8 line. at the time I did all this, the fittings to go with 1/2 line were not all available as they are now. If I was to do this all over, or replace anything major I would step up to 1/2. Flow volume is key. The biggest issue with the factory system is obviously where the pump is mounted, but the banjo fittings are what kills the flow volumes. Just eliminating the banjos will make a considerable difference but doing that, it's easier to just yank it all and go simple with bigger rubber line and a handful of fittings. Moving the pump will make the biggest improvement of all. When I moved my pump down to the frame, I purchased 2 pumps actually. The second is undr the rear seat waiting for the first one to die. I have never touched it from where I placed it under the seat, so far it hasn't been needed and as much as this current pump puts out psi wise, who knows how long the spare will sit there. Been about 3 years now. I have always maintained that there is nothing wrong with the OEM Carter pump, it is where it was originally mounted that was the problem. Sure I could have gone and got an AirDog or Raptor or whatever the newest thing going is, but when your in the middle of nowhere, try and find parts when one pukes and dies. Just about any parts store, farm equipment dealer, etc has a Carter on the shelf or can have one pretty quick. It might not be the "exact" replacement unit for our trucks but it can be easily made to work in a pinch. I know lot's of guys who went the fancy pump route and had problems with them..........dieing, warranty, whatever. They ened up going back to a stock pump on the frame and most of them if I remember right are still going. Maybe I'm just old but my truck works for my money, so why fix it if it ain't broke. Might have to modify it a bit but it ain't broke. Jeff

The metal line on the frame just before the tank right where the rubber line joins it...........all I did was slip the new fuel line over the metal line and double hose clamped it, simple as that. It seems that some trucks have a crimp connection (think air conditioning line connection) between the factory metal and rubber line where as others have a bulbed end on the metal line with the rubber line pushed over it and permanently clamped. My truck was a crimped connection, I just cut the metal line, slipped my rubber line over it about 6 inches and double clamped with a typical hose clamp. It is a fairly snug fit and it hasn't leaked yet. Jeff

Here you go, although not much to really see. This is the pump mounted outside the frame under the drivers seat. As you can see, it's in the open with nothing protecting. This particular pump has about 150,000 miles on it and as you can see, has been through hell and back. I can change pumps if need be in under 10 minutes. I do have the fittings needed to use ball valves to shut the fuel off when the time comes to change it, just the time hasn't come. Right now, I clamp a couple of small vice grips before and after the pump and swap it out. This just shows the big line going directly into the VP, nothing really out of the ordinary. This shot shows my "T" line (blue) coming off the bottom of the fuel canister for my mechanical fuel pressure guage in the cab. It was easier this way instead of mounting the needle valve down on the bottom of the canister where it would be a little harder to get to. Sorry the truck isn't flashy or spotless, it's a work truck and it works everyday making me a living. If you need more, let me know. Jeff

My "kit" is parts and pieces from Vulcan as well as stuff sourced from a local parts store. The tank module is factory stock, no draw straw at all. The connection to the tank is factory as well. My "big line" actually starts just before the tank itself on the frame rail. The Carter pump is mounted directly below the drivers seat on the outside of the frame rail and feeds the factory filter canister/heater assembly. From there is is "big line" directly into the VP. The pump wiring was extended down to the frame mounted pump using a Vulcan harness but they are simple enough to make. Everything is Push Loc type rubber hose, braided or anything is not needed. Push Loc is cheap and available just about anywhere and way less hassle that braided. I had braided at first, waste of money for this application. I can take some pics of the frame mount set up if you want them. Jeff

Not sure how cold it's getting back there in Ontario but in Alberta at -40 or colder it makes some God awful noises when it kicks in! Jeff

As above combined with moving the pump down to the frame under the drivers seat will make a huge difference. I have my stock OEM Carter set up this way, been that way for over 150,000 miles on the same pump. Pressures are 15/16 psi at idle and WOT won't go under 11 psi. Big line from the front of the tank to the VP with only the factory filter canister in the middle. Jeff

My 0122 code scenario started out with the APPS and slowly included all the sensors with voltage high and voltage low codes, ended up being the ECM.I'm hoping the new Timbo wipes your problem out, it didn't on mine.Like mentioned, run a thorough diagnostic check and go from there.Jeff

I run Southbend but most of the "performance" clutches or aftermarket clutches are closer to an on/off switch than what your used to to.They obviously don't like to slip as much as maybe you would normally do when pulling away from a stop. You have to be just a little more aggressive on your release and you will be fine. I know it probably sounds strange but that is how myself and a lot of the other guys I know do it and it works just fine.My 6spd has always been a 2nd gear truck but when I did my first Southbend, it became a 1st gear truck until I figured it out. Now I can pull from a stop in most cases pulling a trailer with second with no problems. After a short time it just becomes natural and you won't even know your doing it.I killed my first Southbend with a massive rear main leak but the 2nd one is still in the truck with over 140,000 miles on it towing almost everyday.1st gear backing up a trailer can be a challenge but that again is easy to master.Jeff

If the shift tower is not sealed right, trust me, it will leak big time.You obviously pulled the tower when you dropped the transmission. When you reseal the shift tower, seal it and leave it for awhile until you thread the shift lever back on it, so the sealant sets up good. If you didn't use sealant, there is your problem also.It's suprising how much fluid will drool out of the shift tower especially being there is a whole bunch of spinning gears just an inch and a half below the hole.I fix lot's of guys trucks that have had clutches replaced and then they leak. Now they just bring them to me and it's done right the first time.Jeff

This might help....... http://dodgeram.org/tech/transmission/nv5600_spec.html Jeff

Over the years, I have owned 5 of the 2nd Gen style trucks, 4 gassers and 1 diesel. All of them have had moisture/fogging issues on the inside of the windows in high humidity/wet conditions. For whatever reason, it is especially noticeable on the drivers side window. I have just gotten used to using the dash vents in these conditions and actually aiming the outer dash vents towards the windows.Quite a few people I know with these trucks have the same problems.Jeff

I can't remember the price off the top of my head but it was reasonable enough I just bought 2 of them. The extra one has been sitting on the shelf for about 2 years now.It is just the sending/float unit itself. When they hand you the box, you will swear there is nothing in it.Jeff

I have had a mechanical in the cab since almost day one on my 02 with zero issues. If it's done right, it's safe and leak free.What you are describing with pressure drops sounds like a pump issue not a guage issue.Jeff

It's probably safe to say that the sender in the tank is dead.My 02 has had 3 over the years so I'm thinking if you are a 99, it's time.The thing that kills the sender the most is high speed filling at pumps such as fleet card lock or where big trucks fill. The volume compared to a regular gas station beats on the float assembly pretty good and it's only a matter of time.I fill at a card lock and that's what I'm sure killed mine. They are fairly simple to replace. Drop the tank a bit and slightly rotate it, change the sender and be done with it. About and hour or so in time.Jeff

BD Power turbo back 4 inch installed 10 years and 265,000 miles ago. Paid $400 Canadian for it and had to replace the muffler about 2 years ago mainly for a small rust hole in the bottom rear of the muffler can. Cost me $100 for the replacement.Other than that, problem free. It is a little louder than the stock stuff and gained me a slight drop in EGT's while towing heavy but been a worth while investment.Jeff

Made more noise, basically turbo whistle was louder.My 4 inch exhaust made it louder again, did nothing for mileage but did run cooler when towing heavy. Changed to a Scotty Air and made it quieter and did lower EGT's a bit when pulling the same heavy loads.Best thing I ever did was drive it like a human being and keep the revs under 2000 rpm, mileage gains prove it.Jeff

I have had Optima Red Tops in my truck for about a year now with never a power concern. I have been dealing with a few medical issues and haven't used the truck for about a month. During that month, up here in Alberta, we have been dealing with -20 Celsius and lower temps and the truck has been sitting not plugged in. This evening at about -36 Celsius, I cycled the grid heaters twice and twisted the key and she spun over and started!They are not cheap but they work.Jeff

Check with Quad 4x4, they should have everything you need parts wise, if they don't I'm sure they can round them up quick. http://www.quad4x4.com/DodgeNP241DLD1998-2002parts.html Light duty http://www.quad4x4.com/DodgeNP241DHD1998-2002parts.html Heavy duty Hope it helps, Jeff

Since your truck is a 6spd, your cruise control is electronic. Take the truck out and see if it does the same surging with the cruise control set at the offending speed.If the surge goes away, the APPS is on the way out. Every 01-02 6spd truck I have run across doing this has been the same thing, surge goes away when on cruise, APPS is on the way out.At this point, it probably won't throw a code either so it makes it a challenge to diagnose.Had it happen a couple of times to myself, been there.Hope it helps, Jeff

I actually just went through this with almost the exact same codes and it ended up being my ECM cooked itself. Driving home one day as usual, shifted up to the next gear and poof, dead pedal. I managed to get it going by slowly applying the throttle to get it up high enough to engage the cruise control and managed to get it home.Changed out the APPS and every other sensor on the truck and no go. After chasing the harness and doing every probe test I could to chase voltages, it was obvious that the ECM puked.$2500 later she was as good as new. It went to the dealer only because I work out of this truck, when it is not running, I'm getting poor. Dealer had it done in 2 hours.All the sensors are run off the same feed, the ECM monitors the readings, when they start going high and low, it's internal.Jeff

I have run an ISSPRO EV mechanical guage since day one on my truck using only a needle valve and a braided steel line up to the dash mounted guage with zero problems (10+ years and 255,000 miles)The needle valve is used for damping the VP pulses as well as to "turn off" the line in case of a leak. You will have the needle valve barely cracked open when in use.Where you pull fuel from to monitor pressure is for the most part up to you. I have the Vulcan big line kit as well as the lift pump relocate kit on my truck. In my case fuel pressure is monitored out the bottom of the filter canister. I know of several trucks that monitor right at the VP inlet but they tend to get a little more "buzz" in the guage while running.It's pretty straight forward to put together and make work and in the end gives you a huge piece of mind knowing that you can see your fuel pressure in real time.Jeff