guesswho512

i don't know what they are advertising...but i'm pretty sure i want one! *warning this ad contains nudity* http://www.m2film.dk/fleggaard/trailer2.swf

:2cents:the humvee rims are 2 piece steel rims...the tire/wheel combo maybe in the 120# range the overall change in diameter(bout 7or 8%) gets me slightly better mileage when i drive mostly highway. in fact my best tank since ownership was recently with those wheels. when the routes are mostly stop and go...yes i pay the price. like mopar1973man said the pizza cutters would prob be the best of both...but i think these would be to cool:http://www.jcwhitney.com/jcwhitney/product.jcw?nval=1101016152&statenval=1101016152&productId=2013750&skuId=391799&shopid=100001&pageid=13&TID=BEC00001&utm_source=Become&utm_medium=CSE&utm_content=product-317971%20&zmam=73771597&zmas=21&zmac=61&zmap=317971

i took another trip today. i tried to get faster refreshes...but i believe the J-9141 is the bottle neck. the ccd bus is NOT the same as the CAN BUS but really similiar.(CAN BUS is required on 08 and newer,or so i heard). the ccd bus uses a funny baud rate and i cannot readily find a way to get to that speed(yet).:banghead: the first file has 300 or so seconds is warm up before i left. the second file is almost get right on highway, ~5miles, then exit highway and kill the software. the approx outdoor temp was ~28f guys with stock trucks and gauges...what #s do you typically see for boost and where is the probe at? the peak i saw was ~18.3, but that is from the MAP sensor...thank you everyone https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0AhHyLR2_DBOgdFdkZ2VhQkdnUWgzVjFENU91Slg2RXc&hl=en https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0AhHyLR2_DBOgdFBqSEtRWnc4OFN6UnQzdDR5NThDOWc&hl=en

lmao!

but how do you check gauges and keep your eyes on the road? jk

mopar1973man...have you ever observed an upper limit on heat for MPGs? or better yet...what is the highest iat that you've seen? with the coolant passage...i wonder if a thermostat with a higher temp would be better for winter time?

i beleive my 99's stock rims are 16"x7"... how far the wheel is *recessed* in the wheel well...if it has to much backspacing you rub...spacers are an option...the opisite of backspacing is offset...if you have you much offset...it stresses the bearings. i put hummvee rims on the back...they are 16.5x10.5 rims and nearly all backspacing...i am going to have to put spacers on the front to run them...i think the back could go to 35s or 36s. i have had no problems so far...and man, does it help apperances found this site https://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html

good work isx! i love how you can even hear the switch toggle. lmao...where i the cab did you put the switch?

and for newbie's like myself....what is the proper way to flush w/o damage and making the pavement my oil disposer?

w&f...it is an excell spreadsheet but you can view it free at http://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0AhHyLR2_DBOgdGhnRFgxR210Y1BWeFRWekFEbG1ZM0E&hl=en

the outdoor approx 24F and i was coming home. as you can tell from the data, my truck was already warm.(my data from the trip to that location was lost when that program overwrote the log) i did notice how the iat and ect was nearly the same as outdoor temp at cold start...i think i even saw the grids kick onmy question is....even tho that 4th gear pull was pedal to floor...i only saw 71%throttle position. does that seem right or do i need to adjust my apps? also at idle, not touching pedal, i see 7%-9%.does anyone know how it calculates load? does the map sensor seem accurate to anyone(someone suggested that they looked low). thanks for your opinions

ohh yea..the speedo is off because of the tires...8.398% too slow...ie Actual Speed:60 mph--Vehicle Speed Sensor:55.3 mphi think you can see how movement with no covers on the grill effect intake temps

this data was taken a little while ago...the out door temp was ~24f. the truck was already warm and i drove approx 5.25miles...the section in yellow that says "in 4th" or what ever was pedal to the floor...i also notice that the map starts at ~14.7. tell me what you think. highway 24f.xls

don't play with the waste gate until you have a fooler of some kind...i put a "edge boost elbow" on my stock 99...works great at low rpms, with little power. then i was pulling a trailer uphill in 4th gear(i got a stick) and boom...no power! cars and semis were trying to pass my like i was pan handing!

if you get a big line kit from vulcan(the one from filter cann to injection pump) it comes with a tapped 90* for gauges. i think they offer 3/8" or 1/2"...kills 2 birds with 1 order.(no i don't get any $)

awesome...where did you get your pump from?

i think they are 3/8s? but that is probably the OD.

ok. thank you for that knowledge. is that manufacture info or validated by testing? it does open my eyes. oh and welcome to this forum.

i have seen that spreadsheet before...very good info, but am i to understand i have a ~20 and ~60 GPH filters on a 150 GPH pump?

come on guys...how many filters do you need?i have the stock filter/canister, the primary and water separator on the airdog. it is installed exactly to pureflows instructions...and that pump has a lifetime warranty. i buy quality fuel(at the local flying j, they have a monster filter on on each hose in the RV section). i am not trying to be a jerk. i guess my point is there isn't much more to do and most everyone has had (i use this term loosely) decent performance out of stock crap...now i have quality pump and filters:2cents:

i hope they don't try something slick and mail you a "new to you" scangauge...i was talking my wife into one before i seen the problems board members are having...but like you said...if they care about their BBB rating they need to make it right with the customers!

the stock filter canister still has bangos... an excerpt from http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/more_power/power_isb.htm " There are 4 banjo fittings that will need attention. The inlet on the lift pump, the outlet on the lift pump, the inlet on the filter head and the outlet on the filter head. The banjo fitting at the inlet on the injection pump is already 3/16.....The banjos on the line between the stock lift pump and the stock filter housing need help because, while the barb is 5/16 on the outside, the hole thru it is LESS than 3/16. A 3/16" or 9/32" drill bit chucked in a drill press will ream the holes to a more reasonable size." i just got rid of the bangos when i went to 1/2" fuel line:2cents:

this is what i found: P0462 Fuel Level Sending Unit Volts Too Low(Low Input) Fuel level sensor input below acceptable voltage. P0462 (M) Fuel Level Sending Unit Volts Too Low(Low Input) Open circuit between PCM and fuel gauge sending unit. P0463 Fuel Level Sending Unit Volts Too High(High Input) Fuel level sensor input above acceptable voltage. P0463 (M) Fuel Level Sending Unit Volts Too High(High Input) Circuit shorted to voltage between PCM and fuel gauge sending unit. i found this http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/technical-service-bulletins-recall-support/104133-code-p2509.html and ramtech says :TSB 18-001-07 Flash: Check Gauges Lamp Illuminates For Alternator Charging With DTC P2502, P2503, or P2509 OVERVIEW: This bulletin involves selectively erasing and reprogramming the Powertrain Control Module (Cummins PCM) with new software. P0516....Battery Temperature Sensor Circuit Low sounds like a battery crapped? it may not be getting fuel...if the pump can't run

shoot... i've seen stock 4cylinder vtec #'s that were similar "horsepower"....something similar started that debate!remember that RPMs push the horsepower #'s way up...lookHP=(TQ*RPM)/5252.......The constant 5252 comes from (33,000 ft·lbf/min)/(2π rad./rev.)ohh....i loved this...1 HP ≡ 33,000 ft·lbf/min1 hp = 550 ft·lbf/s,1 hp = 746 Wcan you say marketing gimmick...been that way since the phrase was coined!

i got all my adapters at walmart. they had everything i needed. but if you rewire your lights...go to harbor freight.