guesswho512

emissions? what's that?i guess i'm luckey because i don't think OK has that bsno one sticks there stuff up my pipe!i think we removed that because it cost the shops more to do it than they could charge?and i won't run WVO, have you seen those pics of corrosion? but airdog says don't heat the oil(only SVO for me)!it could cause line to crack.

on my ranger i run larger tires than factory specs2 benefits: more ground clearance and less miles on odometer

i've got all for in the garage waiting to go inoreilys and .....MOOGthey were the only grease-able joints they had.i've got 2wd...has anyone changed control arm bushing?

wait a minutewhat does your air dog's filter look if your running 2 cycle through it?no "oil gunk on injectors"? better gas mileage and quieter?is this magic in a bottle.i would like any to comment on injector gunk.

i think you over tightened i found this in a google search: http://www.shop.ryevalleygear.com/categ ... egoryId=36 about 3 down is "Crush Sleeve 1132"

my airdog 150 came with a 1/2" hose and connections.per the instructions, i skipped the fuel canister.the only flaw by doing this is: your bypassing your fuel heaterthe benifit is you are skipping the factory 3/8 line and bangos(from canister to vp44)i have read other's say that you don't need 1/2 line if you make the bangos flow better(drilling them out)i have yet to have any problems(other than starter and batteries,unrelated) but it stays warm here in OK

i read recently about someone using superglue to keep from losing the key. other than that you should check out mopar's write up here's the link http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/vp44-replace/vp44-replace.htm

i am trying to understand... without actully starting(say to turn the radio on) you get full oil pressure?on my 99 2500, it does not show oil pressure until 2-3 seconds after starting(my "check guages" light stays on until it registers oil pressure). as soon as i turn key to "off" my oil pressure stops.also when i start mine, the oil pressure is high(but not maxed out) until it warms up. if it is maxed out after the truck is running you might check the dip stick and see if you are over full.or is it something else?

i have heard someone say you can mark the nut and if you can get it back EXACTLY than you don't need a new c/sbut when i asked my grandpa(ASE certified) he said that was a bad idea

i believe the dana's use a "crush sleeve". it is only good for one use! and you should have changed it also.when you torq the nut down you want to use a rotational torque wrench(NOT the click type).the crush sleeve is a one shot thing and sets the preload on the bearings.

i see... i thought that 24 valves kept the torque high in high rpms.is it because i'm hitting 21psi boost?does the edge comp do it, or just drag comp?do you have to "splice" the wire to "turn off" defuel?

everyone knows the CTD is quick, but in my pursuit of quickness i have noticed that when i get to ~2600rpm there isn't a lot left.... i would thank that my fuel rate is dropping, but i have an airdog 150.my truck is completly stock except for the dog and a "boost elbow". i have a 1999 2wd 2500 5speed.is it just me or is this normal for the cummins?thx for the helpbryan