guesswho512

check this out: http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/tips/cummins/general/grid-heater/grid-heater.htm glad to hear your fix was easy.

(not being an ahole)some times they design roads for certain speed.... this reminds me of new orleans....or na-lins if your from that part. the lanes on the huey p long bridge are so narrow that 2 big rigs in each lane touch if one tries to pass. they won't widen the bridge as i have been told "because you can't build enough speed to brake the barrier. its a safety concern". i told them semis hitting me was a safety concern... but that flashed into my mind as i read i've been explaining all week the diff between hp and tq...i showed them this thread..."we'll why didn't you say it like he did"

russ, it sounds like you are kicking @ss and taking names. don't let your disability get you down. i know people that have perfect bodies, but their will is so weak that they are as useless as children! my father has MD and has been defying the wheel chair since he was 20. he also gets frustrated when he faces his limitations, but who does not? just remember that life is not over when you are in a chair...but your lifestyle does a little.

i have not seen the front end of a 1st gen...but my 2nd gen had no rivets. in fact, jlwelding, it sounds like you were their when we change my buddies 94 gmc 4x4's balljoints! it took a lot of "uhff" to get those suckers out!

my buddy bought a 94 gmc 2500 with a 4l60e. it had ~170k at purchase. doing routine maintenance he drained a filled the trans. it started slipping right away! BAD!(maybe 210k) it didn't ever slip before. after a couple failed rebuilds...he got a different trans all together! side note: i think the k&n's are crap and would rather put a fram in the box(if i didn't already have a BHAF). i think i paid $80 for my filter at the corner orielly's

i wasn't trying to bad mouth anyone. but that info is on that site. you paid for that pump...i'm not the one going to tell you what you can and cannot do with your property, but even wise Cummins said 10psi minimum at any load! i personally believe that you need to have fuel "carry" the heat away. its like the cpu in your computer. it might boot up for a couple of seconds with no heatsink...but in a minute you will know what burnt silcone and copper smells like! run a VP44 with minimum cooling....your going to know what a empty wallet feels/smells like!

this is off http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/fassinfo.html i bolded what i thought is important Blue Chip Diesel Performance proved in 1999 that 5 PSI, under load, made all the horsepower the VP44 pump could make, even with stock fuel lines, fittings and supply pump. We did this test on a dyno when we were testing our Fuel Management System. We thought the amount of return fuel flow at this pressure was adequate for internal lubrication. This proved to be all good information as it turned out, just not enough information. We didn’t know then what we do now, namely that of the heat issue, so we never measured the temperature of the return fuel under a variety of operating conditions. and earlier: This is from listening to all of you in the “Real World” and testing the accuracy of my diagnostic procedures daily. I am convinced that HEAT IS THE KILLLER OF THESE PUMPS, based on information I have learned over the years. I got this information by listening to all the great people who call me for technical help, and keeping track of initial as well as repeat failures. ohh...notice he doesn't say what load %? i mean exhaust brake and 3 cylinder idle = 33% load. mind you at idle!

it makes me laugh thinking about what it would say if it was the 8.0L....

man the shipping industry is sucking here lately!

while i agree with black01 about the fact you CAN use a GOOD lift pump to fill the canister(that is how i typically do it, cause i don't crack lines if i don't have to), but you don't have to be a d*ck to everyone. maybe he was having a bad day...taking it out on you may have kept his wife's eye clear.(just kidding). before my airdog, the stock carter would take at min 15 bumps to fill it. That was my wake up to the need of a better fuel system...but before the airdog i typically poured diesel into the can(once i even had to siphon out of the tank! stupid carter!)

my airdog didn't come with an inline filter, but i think the water separater acts as a prefilter. i did hook up the factory water sep/filter(so i would have fuel heater).i have 1/2" line from tank to VP44

you know....that makes sense! but it had not crossed my mind. I wonder if anyone with a smarty noticed a learning curve?

have you gone into the bios and selected "auto" for that hard drive? raid option should not be enabled. try a different sata port or another computer to verify the drive is good. if drive is good.....sounds like a bad controller.

i think you should post a thread in the Vendors & Dealers section for your clutch, but when i looked, anything better than stock was ~700. someone with more knowledge should help with your switch, but i thick your only tricking the ecu/edge into full fueling.

i would be very interested in the results

your still above 10 psi at all times!:thumbsup::thumbsup: so you have already help your vp44, compared to leaving that crappy carter pump. you are using the stock lines?

i think a little extra fuel helps. look at people with rv and 90hp injectors. nearly everyone sees some increase. but i noticed you had mentioned that you didn't see much difference when you changed your timing. why do you think that is?

setting 5 is a timing increase, isn't it? would 5 have more timing than 3, or only more fuel?

there you go! i sure you know, but for anyone trying this at home, make sure they press in and out evenly. *note mopar1973man or guesswho512 are not responsible for damage/injuries resulting from improvised tool use.

yes, but you could get creative....i've done some crazy things with some concrete and a regular car jack

that's all i have had the pleasure of working on, so far. at least it's not like my ford(and honda).....you'd have to buy a whole new upper control arm! its not that bad...i didn't even remove the control arms. i didn't want to remove the tie rod ends, b/c mine were blown and i didn't have the cash to change them also. so i did them one at a time and let the spindle/knuckle hang from the upper joint while doing the lower, and vice-versa.

i can't find one for free...i have tried recently. if you find one please let me know!

i went through the same thing with my ranger's trans...thankfully i found someone else's write up for guidance. i did just noticed that this place has the nv4500 service manual for ~20$ for download http://quad4x4.com/4x4%20Service%20Manual%20Tech%20Library.htm

i swear i have write up somewhere....you could use hydraulic press...we are talking 2wd? right

i maintain a cable network and understand how multiplexing increase bandwidth(and therefore the amount of data you can send). i am trying to figure out how i can access the bus directly. i believe i am correct. mads' smarty program only plugs into the obd, correct?