guesswho512

because you would cause more trouble....or is it just easier to get caught?

happy birthday ISX...remember there are 4 topless bars with-in 1/4 mile of my house

where is here?

the other night i put $40 in the tank @ 3.06 CASH...it has been 2.99 CASH the last 2 nights. this is LOVES and they are 5% bio i have considered running WEO...put it is hard on injectors and can be lethal to VP44s...either run it at a lower percentage(like 5% or less) or need to pre-filter it. i have heard that P7100 injection pump handles WEO,WVO, and SVO very well.

could it have to do with you relocating your overflow bottle...i remember when i flushed my radiator, i loosened the drain-plug and it sucked the coolant out of the overflow bottle(this was with the radiator cap ON and tight)

if the pump is on the way out...see if you can find a combo deal...buy airdog/fass and save on VP44.i a have always thought my VP44 is going out. when changing the fuel filter for the first time, the lift pump could not fill the canister. i thought that was normal(i didn't know any better at the time). i drove like the for 3-4 months before i found out otherwise and could afford a $500 pump. god only knows how long the Previous Owner drove under that condition. he even said, "i always keep a spare fuel filter under the seat. when it fills weak, i pull over and change it." i have been running the airdog 150 for 2 years and have never had a problem yet. the VP44 feels weaker than ever but drives and works 6 days a weak. at ~195k i don't think the VP44 has ever been changed(still the factory one)

yes i have a cheapie...it is a chinese nock-off elm 327 "v1.5" but simple HyperTerminal commands revealed it is a v1.3a...the problem i have run into is:the elm327 has a default order it uses to select the "language" to "talk" to the OBD2. i think mine has 11. some are faster than others. so for live data...you can only get so much data in 1 sec. the more PIDs that you monitor the slower they refresh. the slower ones are on top of that "default order". perfect for getting OBD2 codes and monitoring 1-2 PIDs. some cars can talk multiple "languages" but you have to use hyperterminal,zterminal,etc to send the command to use the language you want to TRY to use and decipher ASCII realtime...free software is OLD and no support, and my dodge is not fully OBD2 compliant, battery on my laptop is toast...don't have an extension cord long enough for a highway run to show conditions under load. it has worked very well for every gasser that i have used it on.i payed less than $22 to my door...it came from hong kong. as a hobbyist, i would do it all over!:thumbup2:hope this helps

i found out a few weeks ago that cummins southern plains had the cord for $17

ISX nailed it on the head, but would like to add that their is a return line on the injectors. i believe that the "70%" of fuel returned to the tank is from the combination of both returns.in mopar1973mans movie, the first shot is without the truck running. it shows that even at reasonable pressures there is little flow thru the VP44. when the truck is running he is getting a lot fuel thru the relief valve...and there is still fuel being returned from the injectors

sorry, been hunting white tail. here is my . ISX is right...(no offense)cajflynn might have less starts on his truck with 900k+ then mine with 195k. the nature of our work is different. extended idling is bad for the motor and MPGs. i always kill the truck if it is going to idle more than 5 min. i have often thought about getting a preluber. i have notice that it seems to take less time to build oil pressure when the truck has been ran in the last 15min then when it sits for more than 6 hrs. it may not be needed for the 15min, but couldn't hurt in either case. i found this a long time ago: http://dodgeram.org/tech/engine/prelube_const.htm but it is just giving you an idea...NOT step by step instructions.

turkey and birthday cake 4 me yesterday :woot:also got a doe yesterday :woot:i hope everyone's holiday was as awesome as mine!

my coworker asked me about the stuff in my first post, then he asked my opinion of the bully dog programmer. he said his "son knows a guy" that has the EXACT same yr model and options. the guy supposedly got 32 MPG. i immediately called BS!!! i gave him my opinion on bully and a few others(high price and less power compared to others). and suggested a EGT gauge, compression test, injector test, pull the DPF, and pull the EGR cooler and block all the passages. i thought the 6.7s were in the range of 16-18 empty. i have not spoke to the man since this conversion. will probably see him on monday or tuesday.

he told me it was a 6.7

i have a coworker that has a 07 3500 that is bone stock. he has just under 100k miles. he was complaining that he gets real poor fuel mileage. he said his best tank ever was 14MPG but is usually 10-12 empty and ~8 when pulling his cattle. he said that it doesn't have the power it did new. he was thinking about buying a used bully dog programmer. i warned him that he needs a EGT gauge before he starts adding fueling enhancers. i also suggested a compression test.also his tires were "loosing" lugs on the inside of the tread face. they were a Hankook off-road tire. i thought it was because using a off-road tire on the highway, but it was only the inside lugs. like every other one was finedoes anyone know of anything i can tell this guy?

same here

one time last year i had a problem with my airdog. it sounded like it barely was kicking on. come to find out, the battery terminals were awfully corroded. i had wired the airdog's harness to the terminals. after i cleaned them all up, my problem went away completely.even if your terminals are good, check your harness

and historically, you have always set them to .010/.020?

i wouldn't necessarily say that you are going to loose power...more that you won't make more than the stock rating(after all, it is a stock truck). you are only "loosing" the extra power, cause more air = more fuel. the truck is running just the same if you didn't change the elbow(a brass 90* is changing the ECU's programing). if your wastegate was rusted shut...the same thing will happen...just my

that is not completely true. i have the elbow and no fooling. that code may set, but does NOT trip the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT. as long as the boost stays below the mark, it does not defuel. with or without the code. i have found that i don't get into the throttle and my MPGs have gone up. i think my waste gate leaks or opens early. with the boost elbow...it doesn't open(right now, i cannot build enough to open it). so i did see a "seat of the pants" increase in power. now once i get over the threshold, it defuels(usually going up hill at high speed with a trailer) it will defuel...you the sound of the turbo never slows but you speed does not increase. just my experience with my 99

sounds like your fuel sending unit is going out or maybe your float is just out of wack

good to know. i had a center cap fall off shortly after getting my tires rotated. i was looking at getting 3rd gen caps, as the are easier to come by. sounds like i should save my money.

going to start calling you wheezy! rotflmao

Dieselogik Fuel Stabilizer thinks that fuel needs to be "stabilized at 145*-155*F http://www.kmrdirect.com/acatalog/All_our_products.html [ATTACH]2118[/ATTACH]Dieselogik.doc

in my opinion...this should be a separate thread. i'm sure that you and the rest of the group probably have good info pertaining to this, but will be lost in this thread. making it hard to find/search for. the computer on these trucks use speed/density to determine the amount of air going into the motor. it then figures out how much fuel to inject based off of the air flow. but we(and the engineers at cummins) know the volume and corresponding energy content of a gallon of diesel fuel varies according to its temperature. Warmer fuel has less energy per gallon than cooler fuel. so the VP44 uses fuel temp to inject the proper amount of diesel to promote good combustion AND to meet emission standards(ie less smoke). (if my memory is correct)the ideal temp for our motors is around 90*F - 95*F did you do the sandwich heater? this thread is about a 04 duramax(using a CP3 injection pump), but is the only place that said at what temp P0168 is set off at. P0168 could be set off at a different temp for our trucks. more reading here: http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-8141.html http://www.thecybertruckstop.com/DS/diesel-fuel-temp.html http://www.turndownhotfuel.com/myths.html http://www.dieselbombers.com/general-diesel-related/2404-fuel-coolers.html http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/FAQ/diesel_fuel.htm http://www.allpar.com/mopar/cummins-diesel.html

the same had already happened to my truck's filter box when i purchased the truck at 125k miles. i could put a filter in, have it perfectly seated, and after my next drive one of the sides(the one facing the front of the truck)will be collapsed in with a wide open gap. have been running BHAF for 3+ yrs. i did not buy the OUTERWEAR. everyone looks at the filter and think its done, because its not bleach white. it was no longer bleached white after 2 months