GSP7

That was a thread I thought there was a article/ write up on how to test a Denso Alternator for "noise" or a bad diode I clicked the "Article" button at top of this page but didnt find a alternator test article .

I am searching for Moparman's Alternator "noise" test article. Cant find where it is. I want to check and see if my alternator is 100% or not Does Alt noise have to do with a bad diode? I saw a Alternator part on Larry Bs sight. (Diode pack / Rectifier Bridge for Deanso Alternator) Is that "the fix" if your Alternator is making "noise" I think I checked my alt a few years ago, before I replaced my TPS Rick

I have the " Big D " box brace also. Nice brace, simple strong design, and doesnt hang down as far as others. I have a Red Head box which is great very tight box. My old original steering box just had a small amount of play, but it puked the seal and oil would squirt right out of it I keep air pressure fairly high in front tires because that motor is heavy and I do some real tight windy mountain road driving, about 30 40 psi in rear unloaded BFG KO tires.

I talked to Larry B about starters. He said Drawing to many amps is caused by the Armature wrap wires burnt melted together most likely To tell id a Denso , it will have a foil sticker that has the Chrysler or Denso name on it. I wish I would have kept my original starter. But back then I didnt know about these chinese ones floating around. Who knows what you get when you get a rebuilt a old denso core or a china Larry says the wire raps on the armature on the china starters arent even solid copper but copper coated steel Next time I will have to spend the $$ and just get a new Denso that will last 100k+ miles

As in the other post, I went to Napa and got a free warranty rebuilt one. Old one was 10 year old Napa life time warranty, They tested it and it was drawing too much amps Bad Wish I would have kept the original one. What would cause high amp draw and dragging starter ? Only simple thing I would think, just bad bearing bushings. Any other intuitive reasons for high amp draw and dragging slow stater Do you all think these Napa rebuilt in mexico starters are Denso cores? I was going to keep my old one as a spare to rebuild and just pay Napa the core charge but they since it was a free warranty exchange they said they would have to charge me full $190 price if I kept it

Mopar Man , good point about over LP pressure to the VP at start. Guy at Blue Chip mentioned that when I talked to him Starter Motor !!!!...... I just replaced mine this morning. Another Napa Reman. lifetime warranty one. Napa tested my old one and it was drawing too many amps ..Bad.... The New Starter installed cranks alot faster....We will see if this cures my long crank issue I have had off and on for 2 years. Best part is it cost me $0.00. I got the Napa Rebuilt one, Not a New made in China one. The rebuilt one is done in Mexico and I hope maybe it is a Denso core. Id rather have that than a new chinese one Thanks Gamble for Posting about the Starter....After I thought about it , I remembered I did think that my starter seemed slow even after I just put in new Batterys Rick

My 10 year old Napa rebuilt doesnt seem to be cranking as fast as it should with two brand new batteries, maybe bad bushings or armature . Called Napa and the have a Amperage draw tester for starters. I get a new or rebuilt free from napa with lifetime warranty. I might go with the rebuilt again I bought some Mil Battery terminals from Larry B and they were cheap knock off junk copies not Mil spec, got my money back and bought the real Mil Spec Battery Terminals from Napa Larry B was good about it, Thanked me for bringing it to his attention, Said he had ordered 1000 from a new distributor and hadnt inspected them

Does anyone have the Napa New Manufactured (not Rebuilt) starter motor, that is made in China? Maybe the rebuilts are china too , I dont know. Maybe my original was china too ... Anyone know? Checked a couple parts stores for reference and they said what they sell is china made too

Gamble,,, Sorry,,, You could be right about the starter motor. I have new batterys, and ever since I but them in I was thinking it seems like my starter should crank faster RPM with those new batterys. So I was at a local diesel truck shop, and had the guy listen to it crank for his opinion. He said yeah it should crank faster,,, sounds like its drawing a ton of amps The starter might not be spinning the motor fast enough to get proper injector pump pressure to fire it up Good news... I have a Napa lifetime warranty on this starter (rebuilt) and found my receipt.... Called Napa and I can get a new one free !!!! Free parts is Good !!!! They also Have a New Starter $10 more with lifetime warranty, Its made in china, though Im told they have had good luck with them

I re read this, Return lines are clean no leak,,, I was thinking about that,,, even if there was a return line that did have a leak it wouldnt effect starting... Agree?

Read this and went out to look. It fired up so fast this time hard to tell but I did see it move off the stop before it fired Didnt drive anywhere in it today but it has fired right up every time to day out by my shop. About 6 or 7 starts This sucks that you dont have confidence in your truck

My VP44 only has 36k miles on it

Thanks .375 is 3/8" The return steel tube was .315 , yeah 5/16 sound right Another question, Is the return line pressurized or have a vacum on it when the truck is off? I dont have to bleed anything if I remove that return line do I? , Just replace it and go...?

What size fuel line is used to replace the fuel return line with the quick disconnect line past the "T",,, to the frame steel line. Have you guys just swapped out that stock plastic line with the quick disconnect and just use a regular good fuel hose and regular screw hose clamp? Im going to pull that quick connect off to check for air in the return line. It might break or maybe the O ring will be messed up and leak if I reuse it Rick

Just talked to Eric from Midwest Fuel Injectoin. Told me to look for air in tank return line, Put a clear hose in line to return to tank to check for air. All so said leaks will show no fuel seepage air can get sucked into the line causing loss of prime Also said check injector connection tubes for seating

Far as suction leak seepage loosing prime, I thought I had that is problem also,,, awhile back, about a year ago, I resealed the stock fuel filter rubber grommet on top , its nice and dry clean now I wiped off the back of the head, where the return banjo is. Its real clean back there no sign of fuel seepage there either Im stumped . Just seems like its loosing prime......

The Starter motor works fine and cranks fine, Doesnt have anything to do with the starter motor.

This morning its firing up fast like normal 4 or five times tinkering with it. Seems after I drive somewhere and then go to start again it does the long crank issue Its kind of done this off and on for a year. Got the new batterys and redid mil spec terminals and cable ends I thought I cured it. But now its doing it again

First thing this morning I checked for codes with my scanner. No codes, clear. Turned off ignition, removed scaner, Turned ign on and fired right up like normal. It seems after I drive it. Second , third time to start, It cranks cranks longer Checked for fuel seepage yesterday on all injector lines and return line and "T" all are clean no sign of fuel leaks Ive been meaning to buy and install a fass titanium, My replaced cummins stock LP was doing fine but I have noticed its lost 1 or 2 or so pounds of PSI . It doesnt go below 10 PSI though. I run 2 stroke oil/fuel Fuel pressure is 12, 13, ign. on, just before cranking, LP goes off, crank it and when it fires 12, 13 again Where is the common place for a suction leak. I had searched for a leak before extensively and did not find any leaks

I havent been on here for awhile Had to get sent a new temporary pass word I tried to reset my temp password to one I can remember and it didnt work, said my temporary password was wrong ??? Rick

My '99 4x4 diesel used to fire right up , lately sometimes it has to crank longer than usual. Not real long cranking over, but noticeably a little longer crank time. Not all the time but did it today 3 times. It always fires though. I dont drive it every day . Drove it last two days probably 200+ miles I just put new batteries and military spec terminals and cables on it. Battery ground to frame and body grounds good. Has 164,000 miles, new VP a few years ago , lift pump pressure is ok, Fuel filter changed 5000 miles ago, and the old one was ok anyway . I run 2 stroke oil in the fuel all the time I plan on putting a Fass pump on it but " Idont think" that is the problem Any Ideas why it has to crank a little longer to fire sometimes. Or possibilities?

http://player.vimeo.com/video/76633759

I found I can get some Delo 400MG from a distributor, Alexis Oil Co. Their price is a crazy though, $82.30 for 5 gal, thats like $17 a gallon. Sales guy left a voice mail twice, I should call him back and tell him I will pay $50 for a 5 gal bucket I used to get MG from walmart , $10 per gallon, before they started making the LE stuff. I still have some of the old jugs in my garage

Seems you could use a newer block., Maybe just use the 99 crank shaft in it that has the is made for the sensor. I wonder if a newer crank is made to use a sensor also, but the sensor was just omitted from being mounted on the side of the block . .

Airdog are cheap junk. Lots and lots of people complaining that their airdonkey failed Yes, just get a Fass