GSP7

had 135k on my orig

Thats what I noticed my right rear is wearing fast and I have Posi rear. First I just rotated front to back same side. I was thinking I would swap the two rears for awhile , But Ive always tried to keep the rotation same direction on each tire on my other 4x4s My old chevy 3/4 4x4 (1981 k20) has a posi rear, but the left side rear rears just a little more than the right. But Generally the two rears wear pretty much the same compared to my dodge wearing the right rear quite a bit more

I was referring to the old theory that the radial belts get a directional memory

What is your opinion on Radial tires and rotating left and right tires so they are rolling the opposite direction? Or do you thing its best to only rotate front to back same side so the tire always role the same direction?

My GOOD Alternator just installed with New Diode Pack, New Brushes Tested with a Fluke meter- Volts DC 14.2 / AC .019-.027+/- AC is down from .055+/- Jason that owns the Alternator shop says the AC wave numbers test he doesnt use, and dont mean anything to him, He removes the Rectifier/Diodes and checks them each diode on a meter. It looks like checking the AC volt wave does show a reference for a bad diode or diodes though He also told my NO rectifiers or other parts are made in USA anymore. All available parts are made in china/korea. Denso japan doesnt even sell replacement Diode packs etc either, just the whole alternator .

Found this: http://www.aspwholesale.com/index.php?_a=category&cat_id=108 Select, make, model, year and you can find part #'s for all alternator parts and starter parts for my '99--- Rectifier - Nippondenso 120-136A ER/IF Alternators w/ 130mm OD Stator Product Code: INR734P Rick

I have a Denso alt. I'll get a part #. I saw LarryB has rectifiers/Diode pack, But $75 is way, way over priced, Pretty sure they are cheap chinese too. Even searching on line I found them for $35 After seeing what the Alternator shop guy work on mine and what he did and checked. I can check my diodes at home next time with my fluke multi tester If your original 'quality' diodes are good, I wouldn't replace them unless they go bad

Report: Took My alternator off and to a local Alt/Starter rebuild shop. To double check it for bad diodes. My alternator bench tested OK . He then took the back off and to check the diodes individually with a meter, and I had "1" bad diode I was charging Volts: D.C. 14.30 and My A.C. was .055+/- Moparmans video, he checked Volts at: DC 14.25, AC .005-.015 IIRC The Alternator Shop (Jason) Ordered a new Rectifier/diode pack about $25 and Im putting in new brushes $9.00 as long as I had it apart. The above numbers are a reference to go by . My Alternating Voltage Test A.C. .055+/- I thought was ok , But I did actually have 1 bad diode. There are 8 diodes on the diode pack I will recheck my AC volt reading with 'New/Good Diode Reference' when reinstalled the Alt. with its new diode pack Rick .

Does the plastic door panel break/ crack where the panel retainers hook to plastic door panel? Do the retainers slide into a grove on the plastic door panels ?

Any one fiddle with door lock solenoids My pass side is sticking . Makes a noise wont go up and down with the drives door switch. Once in awhile it works Maybe just needs a shot of penetrating oil Havent felt like pulling the door panel and busting the plastic retainers yet

What is "dap" ? ?

did you clean (flush) out your lines and trans coolers or relpace? maybe pumped debris and metal into your new tranny and metal froze up your vb

$23 vs $27

Im going to order a spare belt Gates Regular or Heavyduty? Pretty sure my original is just Regular. I wonder if the Heavy duty is a gimick? GATES K080810 SERPENTINE BELT ('94-'02) A/C or GATES K080810HD SERPENTINE BELT ('94-'02) HEAVY-DUTY & A/C

Ha !....I just bought a new in box , old stock , Fluke 75 series 2 multimeter II for $50.00, Cool . Probably cost $175- $200+ for new comparable model fluke

My steering wheel does not lock . I like that. My old 81 cheby 4x4 the steering locks. hate that. Plus, when you have to pull the steering wheel that lock plate is a pain in the arse

http://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3320-Auto-Ranging-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1427383471&sr=1-1&keywords=equus+Digital+volt+meter Wallmart has that INNOVA 3320 for $19

I found a local Alternator/starter rebuild shop I stopped in at. Nice shop. He said to remove it and bring it in and he can thoroughly check it. He has the rectifier/diode pack if mine is bad. Ill have to wait till next week Or if find a decent digital multimeter I will check it also

Thank you , Yeah , Im online looking for a Good multimeter. I found a old new in box Fluke 85 like in the video on ebay 6d bid wait. Is that fluke 85 kinda outdated not able to do modern auto computer tests, like that last diode test video? That snap-on tester is probably $1000+ scope/meter Id guess Also looked on line at some of napa's, o'riely's, autozone's but they might just have cheap junk in their stores Can you guys refer me to a good Digital Volt Meter for testing my truck that wont break the bank? I saw some for $300-500+++ Rick

Does the big fuse need to be removed to get a proper AC reading? Is this test procedure explained in my big 2 book service manual ?

When using the multimeter to check DC and then AC, should the big fuse be removed to get a proper AC reading? I still get 14 volts on AC. I dont have a dial on my meter. You have to put the pin in the AC hole on the meter. Im using a cheap old needle type volt meter. (not digital) and its not detailed enough to even read .1 or .01 or .001. This meter is probably 40 years old.

Is this test procedure explained in my big 2 book service manual ?

Where did you buy your test meter and what brand/kind is it?

Where did you buy your test meter? My two small meters arent for automotive My goal is to make sure my alternator is ok. To protect my ECM. I read that bad alternator diode causing alternator noise can harm the ECM, If that is true

Why did you take the big fuse out? I have a small volt meter that has the plug in needles. Are you just going from Testing DC and then testing at AC What will it read at AC if you have a damaged diode? Will it read 14 volts also just like hooked up DC