GSP7

Well' I got some Napa ATF + 4. It's Valvoline, says right on the label, and says synthetic too, $5.00 a qt

Just replace(What do you mean by upgrade? Do you mean get the 2 bulb sport lenses) Also, do the Non sport replacements come in clear/non ribbed lenses ? Seems ive seen them before but I dont see any when I google search. A friend of mine has the non sport clear lenses IIRC Is there a advantage / disadvantage to clear vs ribbed? The Clear look kind of cool

What are good new headlight housings/lenses to get to replace original fogged over lenses? Not the bulbs , I have the regular stock lenses now, not sport truck Ive seen all the stuff on ebay and amazon. Are some junk? I read ,

$7.50 for a quart of Valvoline ATF+4 ! ! ! That's crazy ! I replaced the rear drive shaft seal on my 241 transfer case, Figured Id change the oil too. Cheapest I found is $7.50 per quart for valvoline atf + 4. Local crappy Walmart didnt even have any. They redid/ rearranged everything in that store and they dont stock alot of stuff they used too Looked at my old receipts and I payed $2.50 a qt for the ATF + 3 before the +4 came out when I did my Transmission Im going to try another walmart in another town UGH !

I have it patched up like that, but my boot is disintegration and where the wire goes through the case hole it might contact the side since the grommet is disintegration. Just wondered if anyone has replaced the whole boot without taking the starter brush cover etc off/apart

Has anyone installed one of these boots ? Can you just slide it on and press it into the housing without disassembling the starter ? Or do you have to disassemble it to get the boot pull into the hole in the housing? rick

I luckily noticed starter motor solenoid wire boot/ insulation was rotted on a pretty new starter motor and the heavy wire was exposed. Could have shorted out on the nose of the solenoid. See photo in link http://www.fostertruck.com/grommet-cover-for-motor-wire-denso.html Im supprized that heavy wire is not insulated, just the cheap rubber boot. Damn ! I zip tied a plastic wire loom cover over it, temporary fix . Till I pull the starter and do a good fix I'm sure you other guys ran into this issue. Has anyone done a good fix remedy for this starter issue? Piece of heavy duty shrink rap?

Mike sounds like a good man and great friend .

I called shell tech guy Rotella T4 is the new label for Dec 2016, he stated I asked about zinc/phosphorus content. He stated Current rotella T is 12ppm or .12 and the new T4 will be "about" the same, the Tech Rep stated For what its worh Rick

Is Shell Rotella T now labeled Rotela T4? I see Rotella T advertized at walmart etc but on shell's website they show Rotela T4,,, Then there is T6 synthetic, and T5 syn blend Is the "T" only stuff the old good stuff with higher zinc/phosphorus and the T4 the new stuff with alittle bit reduced Z/P ?

Is anyone running chevron Delo in the Older Gas hotrod/classic vehicles that have flat tappet cams for the good higher zinc/phospahate content? Chevron still shows a PDS (product data sheet) on their web site that shows the zinc/phosphorus content of .13/.12. I called chevron tech guy and he confirmed the zinc content (By the way chevron discontinued the older Delo multigrade the pre Delo LE oil) Unlike Shell does not show the zinc/phosphorus etc numbers of Rotela Anyway I have a older chevy sm block performace built motor with a elgin comp cam flat tappet etc. I am debating running my regular valveline oil and ZPPDplus oil additive http://zddplus.com/. Or just running delo oil for higher zinc/phosphorus(zddp) content Ive been doing quite abit of oil research and zddp additives like Lucas zppd additive, Zddpplus, zddpmax etc and also running diesel truck oil like delo or rotela

Arent the ATPs the Coopers made for America's Tire . Same tire little different tread design as the AT3 I also am looking at the Yokohama Geolander A/T-s they have a 50k warranty I see. The BFGs have a shorter tread depth when new than they used too, Less rubber. Coopers have more tread depth than the BFG also

Anyone running Cooper AT3s ? Ive always ran the BFG KOs I might get some. I see the Coopers are the only tires with a 55,000 mile warrenty anymore

Cool, that's what I wanted to know All these stupid sensors.$$$$. I need a back up light sensor too. Stupid sensors ! Bring back the 1970s ! No check engine light or computer stuff Only thing that ever goes wrong with my truck is computer crap ...lol !

I had a mirror up in there trying to see the darn thing, Couldnt get it off right away I was tired and my back hurt LOL. So is that issue with my speedo not working until 30 mph what happens when the sensor is going bad? Did anyones truck do the same thing when their sensor was bad? Speedo works smooth and fine above 25 mph

Good info guys Ive been busy with other stuff I thought my speedo was working fine, So i started watching it. It stays on 0 intill I get to about 25-30mph then it jumps up to 30 mph reading and works the rest of the way. So it doesnt work from 0-25,30 mph Is that a sign of a bad speed sensor on the rear axle? I got under there and was looking fiddling. I couldnt get the plug off the sensor(it was getting dark, had a flash light), looked like there is a release button/tab you Press to pull the plug off. Is that correct? Dont want to break the plastic

No codes, code check clear, just the 'ABS' light and 'Brake' lights on dash are on

I have a code reader and just ran a code read again tonight, and its clear no codes Check engine light had not gone on either

Well, what is the "repair fix" for the ABS light being on ? Doesnt say in the good repair manual My speedo works fine. I also read that other post about ABS light on and speedo not working Mine is a '99

My ABS brake light is staying on, Need help figuring it out....1999 4x4 cummins, 160k miles. RWAL (rear wheel anti lock) I read up in my Repair manual. CAB(controler antilock breakes),, RWAL,,, Reat axle speed sensor Brakes work great, pretty fresh pads front and rear, fluid level good I fiddled with the plugs on the rear axle speed sensor, CAB , etc. Everything looks good. Its a Clean truck, western desert area no rust Is there any way to clear the memory in the RWAL C.A.B. Any ideas what the problem is that keeps the ABS light on in the dash. PS my '99 only has rear ABS , No front

Yes, sounds like a couple punk thug, smug, trigger happy deputies. http://www.infowars.com/angered-residents-grill-sheriff-on-why-deputies-gunned-down-idaho-rancher/ Latest article.... Ive been following this too. Rick

I bought the return trans line that has the port for the temp sender. Got the line from Genos IIRC

I post this here, though Im not a new member, didnt know where else to post it I keep getting emails in regards to I have been posting and dont know why I get these emails to post or I'll be put in the 'Inactive member storage ' Maybe Mike can fix that thanks Rick

Post.... im active

Good one Other day I saw earths gravity fail and cause a someones mini van to get huge dents in the roof and sides