GSP7

Order seals from Rock Auto. They list several brands of seals and cheaper than auto zone, orealys, napa. Good National/fed mogol, SKF , etc seals. I bought and had shipped 3 seals for my old truck less $ than local parts places.First time ive ordered from them. Making a list for my next order :thumb1:Rock Auto site is good reference for getting correct part numbers too if you do buy at local parts store

What switch did you flip? Sounded like you said Corn Puller. what's ECT ?

Who is running 85-140 in their rear axle? I have Valveline Dura blend 85-140 in my 99 dodge and ran regular Valveline 85-140 in my 31 year old Chevy K20 for last 20 yearsI called Valveline tech to see what % of friction modifyer they put in their gear oil marked "limited slip" because im going to change my oil. The tech guy had a interesting comment about gear oil weights. Ha !

I just did my pinion seal on my '81 chevy K20. Ill have to read up on the dana 70 & 80 pinion nut. On my 14 bolt 3/4 ton chevy rear axle. I used a small chisel to mark the location of the pinion nut, the pinion shaft end, and the yoke. And also counted the nunber of threads showing at the chisel marks. You need to do this to get the nut back on exactly where it was, so the pinion bearing preload is the same as it was when you reinstall the pinion yoke nut.

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I finaly got a boost gauge hooked up (slow poke). Whats your boost gauge read when you are just cruzin 'bout 60 on a flat hwy, just light throutle cruzin for mpg, no grade?

get replacement urathane bushings is what id search for. Id guess they make them for our stock controll arms

Is this the Fuel Lab pump you speak of ? http://streettunedmotorsports.com/parts/fuelab_prodigy_fuel_pump.htm

I use JIC 90 degree push locks, steel. 3/8" or 1/2" which ever you desireGet em at a hydraulic hose shop or Glacier Diesel sells 'em too but they charge more

We call them Racers Toe Plates Just like flagmanruss said. Its pretty simple. Just two rigid straight edges against each tire. I used two pieces of 3"x2" aluminum angle iron('L' metal) 'bout 3 1/2 ft long (2"x2" angle iron will work), I set them on a 4x6" blocks of wood so they are up on the side of the tire. Trick is to have the straight edge firm against the tire, I lean the block of wood (just like the bottom of the plates are angled in the pic) so it lightly presses the straight edge against the tire so it stays put while your messing around with your tape measuer. Or rig up a bungy cord to the inside of the rim (not realy necessary) Nice crisp straight edges on the edges of the metal for accurate readings on the tape measure Or you can buy some of those toe plates. I think Summit Racing and Jegs has them. Might need longer ones for bigger tires, thats why I made my own http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/LAR_79500_Longacre_Toe_Plates/Longacre_Toe_In Little tutorial http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/0601cl_heidts_alignment_plates/ .

You can do a toe alignment yourself. I dont trust most alignment shops, unless you know a good oneI made a toe alignment set like thisI have my 99 with one piece heavy duty tie rod set at "0"

Gotta get my 20 posts in

I had this site saved, just registered, seems like alot more people on here now. Im on the other cummins forum tooRick

I have a 241 DLD Good to know. I have a 81 chevy k20 . I was just looking at my rear TC seal.

I saw a hybred turbo somewhere, It was one of the good turbo shops, cant remember, Utah IIRC. They had one that was stock but had a bigger exhaust housing and blade IIRC My turbo has got a slite seepage of oil on the back... -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- '99 quad,long bed,4x4,auto, tow pac,reese 5th ,isspro guages,SMR shift kit, New VP44, JIC fuel line fittings, Red Head Steering/Big D steering brace