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fuel module

cguyfish
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ABennin

ABennin

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I installed a modified Liberty module from Vulcan with the 1/2 suction and return line.  I do have a FASS 150 and it was suggested to have the high flow return so as to not create back pressure in the return line.  It is a complete drop in unit.  Kind of expensive but in my opinion worth It.  I know Genos garage sells a kit to fix the sending unit but I do not know about the screen. 

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JAG1

JAG1

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I deliberately tore out the filter for better flow/ never clogs. I added a changeable one in line before the lift pump. That is the right way to set it up.

 

That intank filter screen is so the dealer can shake you upside down for all yer pocket change

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JAG1

JAG1

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I'm going through this right now with my 95 but it's been discontinued from mopar and I cannot find any aftermarket either. My basket is rusty and I foolishly cut the bottom off and now the gauge reads 1/4 tank.

I went thru the same thing on my other truck which is my 1st gen DD. Ryan, try using a 4'' ABS straight coupling and adapting to the bottom with stainless screws. Been that way for better than 12 years now and still holding. Been driving that truck for 19 years all together now.

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JAG1

JAG1

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Thanks... I think I will leave it off. And just change sender/float. I've allready got an inline screwon just before Raptor

Where is your sig so we know what rig you have?

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JAG1

JAG1

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I looked it it closely once. And thought it can be done but carefully. The float arm and potentiometer come as one part. I only know that. When mine goes bad I'm going to try and use one from West Marine, for a boat tank, cause I don't like the looks of the Dodge one. Boat stuff is made to be changed out a little bit easier and is a bit better quality.

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cguyfish

cguyfish

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I looked it it closely once. And thought it can be done but carefully. The float arm and potentiometer come as one part. I only know that. When mine goes bad I'm going to try and use one from West Marine, for a boat tank, cause I don't like the looks of the Dodge one. Boat stuff is made to be changed out a little bit easier and is a bit better quality.  

I got the arm off  and see how the circuit board comes off but the other part appears to slide up into slot. Not worried about screen. Mopar1973man is right. No need if I've allready got a spinon. Plus the inline on suction of pump. Plus canister up front.

Gonna get out my maginfier glass to see it. ha

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joecool911

joecool911

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Since installing the 1/2" lines and Raptor 100 my fuel filter doesn't need changing near as often. I figure the polishing of the fuel during the first couple filter changes has cleaned out the tank. Not sure how dirty fuel is from the stations these days?

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JAG1

JAG1

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Since installing the 1/2" lines and Raptor 100 my fuel filter doesn't need changing near as often. I figure the polishing of the fuel during the first couple filter changes has cleaned out the tank. Not sure how dirty fuel is from the stations these days?

Once in awhile you will hear of some bad fuel getting pumped out into diesel truck or car, the primary filter is added insurance. I've pulled the tank on my 2nd gen and found a clean tank each time, but my First gen had lots of gunk in the bottom when I pulled it the first time. It had around 125k miles at the time.

Sometimes a station never pumps near the bottom of the underground tanks, then a new owner or manager may run it down lower that's when you get the bad fuel, when it's off the bottom that never gets rinsed out. Sometimes it's simply from condensation build up inside and you get the gunk growth in the water build up on the bottom.

I don't like screened intank filters since you cannot access it or change it on a regular basis.

I've heard those screens build up sediment and reduce flow. My diesel tractor had intank screens. They were a very fine mesh and when looking at them you couldn't tell they were clogged till you ran your finger across them because they had like a varnish build up on them. After cleaning them with the blower nozzle then you could see they were clogged (around 425 hrs on the hour meter) after cleaning them.

Another diesel tractor owner could not figure what was wrong, why it wouldn't stay running. I asked to pull the fuel line from the tank. Right away you could see a build up of algea and other stuff coming out clogging the fuel line

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98whitelightnin

98whitelightnin

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I went thru the same thing on my other truck which is my 1st gen DD. Ryan, try using a 4'' ABS straight coupling and adapting to the bottom with stainless screws. Been that way for better than 12 years now and still holding. Been driving that truck for 19 years all together now.

Do you mean just adding pvc to the basket to make up for the part I cut off or replacing the entire metal piece with pvc?

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JAG1

JAG1

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Do you mean just adding pvc to the basket to make up for the part I cut off or replacing the entire metal piece with pvc?

It was the metal part of the basket that rotted on mine and I found that 4 inch ABS, the black plastic, fit perfectly in it's place. PVC won't fit as nicely but you could try it...I have various fittings from being in the trades and remember it was the ABS that worked. It replaces all the metal part. Just be sure to measure how long the whole basket should be. I know the factory makes them so they slide up and down with tank expansion but if you measure about a 1/4 inch off the bottom with the fuel tank sitting on the floor pulled out of the truck it will be fine.

 

 

The gas station tanks are like our fuel tanks aren't they? Draw off the bottom all the time.

You are right joe... negates my whole concept of how dirty fuel can get in our tanks in the first place. I't almost like they have to get bad fuel from the get go to be a problem :think:

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