New BHAF options!

[Vais01]

Remember you got to keep the location for the stock sensor any ways being the fuelling and timing tables is built on that sensor location. Colder location will make the MPG lower.

Correct. I just use them to compare values in my other probe in the air intake aka the air horn.

[Vais01]

Also that is where I get alot of my information about airflow into the engine. This is why I have so much data on my current BHAF VS stock filter box. Although my box had been modified since the biggest point of restriction is the tiny inlet. The OE filter is capable of 480 CFM

[Vais01]

Quick update the this filter will be my BHAF of choice just due to better filtration and high air flow. IAT and intake temps are 20 degrees different from one another and roughly 25 to 30 degrees different from ambient air temps mostly due to heat soak.

Edited September 15, 2015 by Vais01

[Mopar1973Man]

I'm want to at least try it once. But The price tag still has me hunt a bit more. The other thing I want to to figure out is how to mount the filter minder in as well.  Since mind does work. More things to ponder.

[Vais01]

I'm want to at least try it once. But The price tag still has me hunt a bit more. The other thing I want to to figure out is how to mount the filter minder in as well. Since mind does work. More things to ponder.

Due to the filter design the only way to make the filter minder work is with a PVC or 4 inch exhaust tubing that you can drill a small hole in the pipe post filter and before the factory air tubing. Otherwise if you drill the filter reducer you risk the integrity of the filter itself.

[Mopar1973Man]

That's what I was thinking about a piece of ABS plastic 4" and another rubber boot and clamps.

 

What's kind of funny about this whole filter thing. I know of a shop here locally that the owner is yanking these filters out of the Duramax diesel and installing K&N filters because he claims they are too restrictive of a filter. So he's be selling K&N filters quite heavy out here. I go the other way around and suggest the owner at least keep the OEM filter set up which is still better than K&N.

 

[AH64ID]

Eeeekk... K&N is a 4 letter word on a diesel (anything with a turbo really). 

[Me78569]

I would say K&N is a 4 letter word in ANY car.

 

I know on bmw's the oil from the filter has a tendency to leave oil all over the MAF wire and cause the car to run poor because the ecm has no idea how much air is flowing in.

[Vais01]

That's what I was thinking about a piece of ABS plastic 4" and another rubber boot and clamps.

What's kind of funny about this whole filter thing. I know of a shop here locally that the owner is yanking these filters out of the Duramax diesel and installing K&N filters because he claims they are too restrictive of a filter. So he's be selling K&N filters quite heavy out here. I go the other way around and suggest the owner at least keep the OEM filter set up which is still better than K&N.

The factory filters are not exactly the same. There are quite a few copies of the Donaldson Powercore design but are much more restrictive.

Now I had a K&N filter on a 2005 Tacoma it worked fine from about 50,000 miles when I installed it up to about 168,000 when the seal around the drop in element quit sealing. Pretty severe dirt ingestion occurred soon after. The K&N drop in filter was removed and a factory style drop in element was put in its place.

Now on any vehicle that has a MAF sensor especially on a gasoline engine you will typically see a 7-25 horsepower drop using a high flow element and an increase in fuel consumption because the MAF sees additional air and then to keep the air to fuel ratio correct the engine compensates by adding fuel. On a diesel this may not occur but I still do not believe in any oiled filters. I've had 2 air filters (oil types) fail on me, on two separate vehicles.

Now for your ABS or PVC idea. You just need a short piece possibly 4-5 inches long to insert into the factory tubing to the turbo from the filter and in that piece drill a small hole for the filter minder grommet.

Edited September 16, 2015 by Vais01

[Vais01]

I would say K&N is a 4 letter word in ANY car.

I know on bmw's the oil from the filter has a tendency to leave oil all over the MAF wire and cause the car to run poor because the ecm has no idea how much air is flowing in.

I have seen several dealerships void warranty for anything aftermarket. That said a K&N WILL VOID POWERTRAIN WARRANTY. Seen this more than a few times. If and when I do buy a new vehicle I will purchase something and leave it completely factory until the warranty expires. These modern engines are expensive to repair. An example is on a Ford 6.7 Powerstroke the injection system replacement due to contamination (incorrect fuel, excessive water, DEF in fuel etc.) or component failure will run you upwards of 9000.00 in repairs. A new engine due to inappropriate oil or running it low will cost roughly 20,000.00 dollars. Warranty is roughly 2500 bucks and will pay for all of the above (as long as its not operator error).

My last run in with K&N engineering really showed me their true colors. I do not recommend any K&N product due to thus as they do not stand behind it. They did however stand behind the money back guarantee.

[Mopar1973Man]

Personally I have issues with any washable filter media. The thing is most of the better brand name like AFe and others is the filter might do fine out of the box. Now wash the media a few times and tell me what the filtering rating is like. Most will wash it till just screen. I've seen some pretty ugly filters.

[Vais01]

Personally I have issues with any washable filter media. The thing is most of the better brand name like AFe and others is the filter might do fine out of the box. Now wash the media a few times and tell me what the filtering rating is like. Most will wash it till just screen. I've seen some pretty ugly filters.

I agree most of these filters have one thing in mind and that is air flow. They work well under track like conditions but not real world driving. I will say this companies are figuring this out and are capable of producing products with different media and designs from the OE level that can support enough volume of air for large power numbers up and over 500 horsepower. Donaldson's Powercore element is one of these filters.

[Vais01]

Quick little update drove a little 40 mile trip today with great results. Temps stayed right around 25 degrees of ambient and most of this was stop and go. So far it's working great.

[Mopar1973Man]

131 Mile trip today. Picking up parts and doing repair jobs as usual. I'm now down in ambient temperature to about 45*F and 60-70% humidity. My offset is now shift to about +50*F or about 95*F. When checking the IAT sensor. I'm using the MPG fooler at this point and seeing a shift of about 2-3 MPG just toggling the switch from IAT sensor to the fooler (143*F). I'm see a gain while on the fooler and loss when back to the IAT sensor.

 

Snow line is sneaking down at about 6,500 feet.

[Vais01]

131 Mile trip today. Picking up parts and doing repair jobs as usual. I'm now down in ambient temperature to about 45*F and 60-70% humidity. My offset is now shift to about +50*F or about 95*F. When checking the IAT sensor. I'm using the MPG fooler at this point and seeing a shift of about 2-3 MPG just toggling the switch from IAT sensor to the fooler (143*F). I'm see a gain while on the fooler and loss when back to the IAT sensor.

Snow line is sneaking down at about 6,500 feet.

Seems cooler weather is sneaking in.

In my experience I haven't seen much difference in cold conditions as long as I am above 165 on coolant temps. In winter it is not uncommon for me to let the truck idle until temps are between 165 and 180 degrees.

[dripley]

Seems cooler weather is sneaking in.

In my experience I haven't seen much difference in cold conditions as long as I am above 165 on coolant temps. In winter it is not uncommon for me to let the truck idle until temps are between 165 and 180 degrees.

i dont think my truck will go past 120 from just idling from cold start up. i have to drive to get up to temp. 

[Vais01]

i dont think my truck will go past 120 from just idling from cold start up. i have to drive to get up to temp.

That's interesting and odd. I'd look at the thermostat. Your thermostat has 2 functions first help the engine warm up to operating temp. Second it allows coolant flow to pass through when needed to keep the temps low.

So if I guess it's probably stuck open and allowing cold coolant from the radiator to continue flowing through the block.

[dripley]

This truck has been like this since it was new. It is not the tstat. Thru the years talking with people here and elsewhere it seems pretty common. I am talking in cold winter weather, not the summertime. I will crank and let it run a minute or so before driving off just t get the juices flowing, but if I want heat I have to drive it.

[AH64ID]

Seems cooler weather is sneaking in.

In my experience I haven't seen much difference in cold conditions as long as I am above 165 on coolant temps. In winter it is not uncommon for me to let the truck idle until temps are between 165 and 180 degrees.

 

I am of a believer that the decrease most see in cold weather is mainly the effect of the cold on tires, fluids, air density and only a very small impact by fuel blends.

What I have always found odd about the MPG fooler is that warmer makes for better mileage. From a tuning standpoint warmer means lower timing.  

i dont think my truck will go past 120 from just idling from cold start up. i have to drive to get up to temp.

Very odd indeed. It should, depending on ambient temp, get warmer than 120°; however, it is VERY bad to cold idle a diesel and letting a diesel idle until warm in the winter is one of the worst things you can do to it.

[Mopar1973Man]

 

I am of a believer that the decrease most see in cold weather is mainly the effect of the cold on tires, fluids, air density and only a very small impact by fuel blends.

What I have always found odd about the MPG fooler is that warmer makes for better mileage. From a tuning standpoint warmer means lower timing. 

Very odd indeed. It should, depending on ambient temp, get warmer than 120°; however, it is VERY bad to cold idle a diesel and letting a diesel idle until warm in the winter is one of the worst things you can do to it.

 

True. The MPG fooler does indeed retard timing. The ignition rattle nearly disappears in my truck with the fooler and comes right back without.

 

What funny about about the whole cold air thing. I can get fully warmed up in a place like Boise, ID and drive into cooler weather and instantly see changes in the cold mountain then instantly see change back when I get to warm area like Riggins, ID. But never really see a change at all with the fooler on. Don't get me wrong I do see impact of the bitter cold starting in the dead winter but after engine temp reaches 195*F as long as the fooler is on the MPG are at least low 20's to high teens. Without it it will fall seriously to mid teens for MPGs. I gotta thank ISX for helping see the difference between 12V mechanical which has no loss in the winter to the 24V that does have losses in the winter.

 

I never cold idle a engine to warm it up anymore. Even my gas power stuff I fire up and go. Keep the load light till the the engine warms up and the kick the pig.If I was attempt to warm up the truck idling (normal) it would take at least 30 minutes at 32*F. Now if I'm in a hurry and need heat to clear ice from the windows. 3 cylinder high idle and about 900*F of pyro and she is fully warmed up in about 7-10 minutes at 175*F. Then it automatically kicks out. But that 3 cylinder mode cost fuel... lots of fuel! Flow rate is like 6-9 GPH...