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The time has come to produce the Mopar1973Man High Idle & MPG fooler switches again.


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The grids won't work in mpg mode.  That's why your truck has starting issues in mpg mode.  If it's cold out keep it in the off position to start.

 

Think of it like disabling the choke on an old engine and trying to start the car when cold.

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On 10/31/2015, 6:49:51, Mopar1973Man said:

There is no really change in running. What you will notice in cold start ups the then when you start in Normal (OFF) and then be going done the road anf flip to MPG mode you notice the timing rattle nearly disappears completely. Engine becomes very quiet. This is the effect of retarding the timing. Yes I said retarding and not advancing.

so how does retarding timing increase mpg, when my qwad says that level 1 is mpg mode and it advances timing. 

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Because the timing is already over advanced in cold weather hence the excessive rattling. So if you retard the timing the rattling stopped and get a very quiet smooth running engine.

Also timing just moves the torque curve forward in RPM. So too much advancement means the engine struggles to pull it self along in cold weather just after starting. So if you retard timing it brings the torque curve back down lower in RPM and allows the engine to build power much easier. Hence the gains...

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Just now, Mopar1973Man said:

Because the timing is already over advanced in cold weather hence the excessive rattling. So if you retard the timing the rattling stopped and get a very quiet smooth running engine.

Also timing just moves the torque curve forward in RPM. So too much advancement means the engine struggles to pull it self along in cold weather just after starting. So if you retard timing it brings the torque curve back down lower in RPM and allows the engine to build power much easier. Hence the gains...

Was this intentionally f uped from doge or is it somehow related to emission crap. Just wondering why engineers couldn't figure it out.

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So I know this is a little off topic, but I forgot to reset my APPS after installing my high idle switch. Can it be reset even after driving it? Or do I need disconnect the batteries for 30 mins and then reset before driving?

I havent thrown a code yet so I suppose that's good haha 

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Mike Posted a new thread in the Website section, but I also wanted to post up here.  Any of you guys that have bought/ installed the switch can you please do a review HERE https://mopar1973man.com/store/product/47-mopar1973man-cummins-high-idle-switch/ click the "product review" tab and put in your thoughts.

 

Also if you wouldn't mind throw some pictures up on CumminsForum so guys over there can see the new stuff.  If any of us ( moparstaff) we may be the big old ban stick lol.

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2 hours ago, Me78569 said:

Mike Posted a new thread in the Website section, but I also wanted to post up here.  Any of you guys that have bought/ installed the switch can you please do a review HERE http://forum.mopar1973man.com/store/product/41-mopar1973man-high-idle-switch/ click the "product review" tab and put in your thoughts.

 

Also if you wouldn't mind throw some pictures up on CumminsForum so guys over there can see the new stuff.  If any of us ( moparstaff) we may be the big old ban stick lol.

I don't think they would do anything to me?? I'm staff, but I see zero gains from the sale of the fooler.

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So I'm having my dad cut me out a piece of aluminum to use as a backing for the high idle switch so I can either put the sticker on that or get it etched or lasered to match the sticker. My question is when I was installing I initially drilled a 1/4in hole like the instructions said but it wasn't a big enough hole to fit the threads through. Did I install it wrong?

This is how it looks

image1.JPG

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No you are right in thinking that 1/4 is too small.  I forgot to update the install direction.  Needs to be a 3/8 hole.  

 

Pull the switch out and redrill the hole 3/8 big so the threads come through the hole fully.  Then use the locknut to secure it.

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On 11/3/2015, 3:14:50, Me78569 said:

Alright sleezy,

 

While I am not going to say that there is no way to fit the switch in the overhead console like I had my last high idle switch ( between the lights)   I will say you would have to do ALOT of cutting to make it fit.  The issue isn't the roof of the truck, but the molding of the console.  also the length of the switch would prove difficult as you would need to make some room for the harness to plug in.  I would say is isn't a great place to install this switch.  

I read your write up last year when you put the switch in between the lights. What I had in mind was to actually put the switch in the plastic insert where the trip computer and compass thing goes on the fancy model trucks. It seems that there's quite a bit of room behind it, and it pops out pretty easy. It also seems that this is way more trouble than it's worth, especially since we're talking about building a special harness and whatnot. I've just got so many switches on the dash already, and I haven't hard-mounted the EZ switch yet, so I figured the two of them could sit up overhead. Lots of hassle though.

19 hours ago, TFaoro said:

But I can do a product review over there since I did purchase one.

I'm happy to do a product review and/or an install write up over on CF. I can pretty much talk the new switch up all I want and not get banned, correct?

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I'm happy to do a product review and/or an install write up over on CF. I can pretty much talk the new switch up all I want and not get banned, correct?

Yes as standard users you can but none of my staff member should be public talking about the high idle switch really. It too risky if CF staff member realize or another vendor reports them they could be warned or banned for vending without paying CF fees. Since you not a vendor nor a staff member of M73M you are  fine.

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