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Higher amp alternator recomendations ?


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99` auto 4x4  , 217 k on my stock one , keep occurring to me to replace before it goes out . Should have already it seems like . Just ordered a bearing and brush kit from Geno`s , to keep this one as a spare . But would like to get a higher amp than the 135 amp or whatever it is , something like 200 or 250 maybe . I have  dually flatbed on it and it has a lot of lights and I haul a truck camper tow trailers , more lights and charge camper batterys on the move , also a large 5th wheel same thing

I solved my lock unlock tork converter prob years ago with a ATS rewire , don't want it back if the higher amp ones will cause it

Have seen geeenies or such for 400.00 , Amazon sells one made by eagleelec  for 150.00 , some on e-bay 150-175.00

Do the higher amp ones just have a smaller pulley or what ,

Any recommendations , I dont want to cause problems , My truck is ok now , dont want a PCM problem

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I run a mechman.  The alternators generally have a smaller pulley and some have different windings.  The main gain for some of the better alternators is if it has a good rectifier and rectifier plate that conducts heat away from the assembly well.  Mechman runs a solid copper plate.  I don't know much about the other systems. 

I also would recommend that you upgrade your charging system ground and lead to the drivers side battery/power junction box.  The factory system is kinda small if you are running a lot of power.  You don't have to run as heavy as I did, but it could be better.  There is an article written for it, if you can't find it let us know.   I think there are guys running some other brands as well.  Hopefully they chime in.  

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CSM, you mention the importance of removing heat from the alternator... I think it's interesting that a lot of airplane engine alternators have a cooling tube aimed at the alternator to scoop in the outside air. I use old shop vac hose aimed at the ECM that scoops cold air from under the bumper. Hey at least it's flexible and it is black.

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4 hours ago, CTcummins24V said:

the one you used says 2001- 2002 , I wonder why on that site when I look for one for a 99 , is for  a gasser with a PCM controlled regulator , 180 amp only

When I search for on for a 99 W/ Cummins its only a 270 amp , but it says w/ internal regulator and is 639.95

I thought all the alternators 99- 02 fit gas or diesel ,

I probably would make my own cables , get welding wire and terminal ends , and a buss fuse from a solar place I have bought from ,cheaper .  The mechman site has a cable kit that has 10 ft wires , is there a preferred path to run the positive , different than the smaller factory  pos. wire? so no interference

Also nations site says to use a shorter belt?

11 minutes ago, Cowboy said:

That's a nice write-up but more work than I`m looking for , would like  direct bolt on

Edited by dieseled
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I believe the Nations and the Mechman have smaller pulleys on the alternator hence the possible need for a shorter belt. It does seem that some folks have just used the oe belt size and dont seem to have any problems from wht I have read anyway.

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12 hours ago, dieseled said:

the one you used says 2001- 2002 , I wonder why on that site when I look for one for a 99 , is for  a gasser with a PCM controlled regulator , 180 amp only

When I search for on for a 99 W/ Cummins its only a 270 amp , but it says w/ internal regulator and is 639.95

I thought all the alternators 99- 02 fit gas or diesel ,

I probably would make my own cables , get welding wire and terminal ends , and a buss fuse from a solar place I have bought from ,cheaper .  The mechman site has a cable kit that has 10 ft wires , is there a preferred path to run the positive , different than the smaller factory  pos. wire? so no interference

Also nations site says to use a shorter belt?

That's a nice write-up but more work than I`m looking for , would like  direct bolt on

Use the stock belt, the pulley is the same diameter as stock. I would call Nations to verify fitment. Here is another good link to read 

http://www.kentsoil.com/dodgebug1.htm

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4 hours ago, CTcummins24V said:

Use the stock belt, the pulley is the same diameter as stock. I would call Nations to verify fitment. Here is another good link to read 

http://www.kentsoil.com/dodgebug1.htm

I went back and checked Mechman's site and it states they have a smaller 1.75" pulley and require a shorter belt. The nations site says states they a custom pulley to allow for more amps at idle but the stock belt can be used. I assumed that meant theirs was smaller also. Assumed being the key word.

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Yea nations said they use a smaller pulley and you can get by with a stock belt

Mechmen said to use a 1/2 " shorter belt

Probably has a lot to due with the condition of the idler tensioner and the belt

Sounds like a shorter belt is the  way to go , the way it squeels when you shut them off because of compression  anyway I wouldn`t want it worse

Trying to find a multi meter that reads low enough to check mine so I know if it needs a diode pack if I re-build it and to check a napa one if I buy a new stock e for now

Rural area not much available , mine only reads down to 200vac , leary of driving it much with a new ecm and an unchecked alt

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I wish I could use a 01-02 from nations , but they say the + post is in a diff position and the bolt hole is a different size on the adjust , might be workable , but would hate to find the belt was out of alignment also or something , cost diff is huge between 99 and yours

But I did get a multi meter that reads at 2vac and was shocked to see .175 fluctuating ,  the 20vac scale  read .17 and on the 200vac .1 , I guess when its bad enough you can read it on 200vac. Anyone seen that high of a reading

Went to napa to get what they said on the phone was a new Nippon denso which is what mine is and it turned out to be a new "denso type" made by ? Otherwise its a re- man . I asked about return if it didn't pass a AC test while running on their test machine but checked out for amps , they said no return

Now what order a 3 week out new mechman - nations and not drive it , dot want to replace diode pack I don't think with out it just being a spare , have a brush and bearing kit coming already

Guess I`ll call the stealership and see what they want for a new one

Afraid to drive it now , don't want to eat the ecm I just put in

I guess I didn't have lock unlock because I did the ATS re-wire 8-9 years ago but that was to solve a 2 nd to 3 rd downshift in and out deal , it did solve it

Any one know of a good supplier of new high amp that don't have to build them , withy lead time

Called mean green but they didn't answer

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Well I thought I would by a diode kit from Larryb`s , but my stock is a nip denso has a plug not terminals for PCM wires so his wont fit , called dodge , had a bad taste in my mouth after thinking of that and would have to order and drive 100 miles round trip to pick up

Plug on the nations 01-02 180amp looks the same as mine , as does the total configuration in the pics on the web site

Had talked to DC Power , another high amp builder I was referred to by BD  power in Wash state , they said they get them for nations ,said if I had terminals not a plug he could send me a plug , but he wanted me to order a 99 still , 469.00 , others I talked to said 98.5-02 the same mounting wise . So I took a chance and ordered the same one CTcummins 24 v did a 01-02 hoping it fits my truck , 2nd day air

Still wondering if .175 seems like a overly high # for blown diodes

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Got the alternator from Nations today , the 01-02 , 180 amp , denso hairpin .Plug is in the same place as original in the 99 , the only real diff is the + post is a larger diameter , I drilled out the eye terminal on the trucks wire  , the old had a shroud to keep me from getting zapped when I change the oil , the new doesn't , the old one wont fit it , I`ll get a boot for it  .Pulley is the same size 

The best is it read .022 at the alternator post and body , and it has way higher voltage that my old tired one , thanks CT cummins 24

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