99` auto 4x4  , 217 k on my stock one , keep occurring to me to replace before it goes out . Should have already it seems like . Just ordered a bearing and brush kit from Geno`s , to keep this one as a spare . But would like to get a higher amp than the 135 amp or whatever it is , something like 200 or 250 maybe . I have  dually flatbed on it and it has a lot of lights and I haul a truck camper tow trailers , more lights and charge camper batterys on the move , also a large 5th wheel same thing

I solved my lock unlock tork converter prob years ago with a ATS rewire , don't want it back if the higher amp ones will cause it

Have seen geeenies or such for 400.00 , Amazon sells one made by eagleelec  for 150.00 , some on e-bay 150-175.00

Do the higher amp ones just have a smaller pulley or what ,

Any recommendations , I dont want to cause problems , My truck is ok now , dont want a PCM problem

I run a mechman.  The alternators generally have a smaller pulley and some have different windings.  The main gain for some of the better alternators is if it has a good rectifier and rectifier plate that conducts heat away from the assembly well.  Mechman runs a solid copper plate.  I don't know much about the other systems. 

I also would recommend that you upgrade your charging system ground and lead to the drivers side battery/power junction box.  The factory system is kinda small if you are running a lot of power.  You don't have to run as heavy as I did, but it could be better.  There is an article written for it, if you can't find it let us know.   I think there are guys running some other brands as well.  Hopefully they chime in.  

CSM, you mention the importance of removing heat from the alternator... I think it's interesting that a lot of airplane engine alternators have a cooling tube aimed at the alternator to scoop in the outside air. I use old shop vac hose aimed at the ECM that scoops cold air from under the bumper. Hey at least it's flexible and it is black.

the Alternator on my BMW has a air pickup in the bumper.

http://www.nationsstarteralternator.com/180-Amp-HP-High-Output-Alternator-for-2000-Dodge-p/13823-180-hp.htm

http://www.nationsstarteralternator.com/180-Amp-HP-High-Output-Alternator-for-2000-Dodge-p/13874-180-hp.htm

I used the latter on my 2001. Only been in since last summer but it's worked flawlessly so far.

I wonder if there was a way to just order the diode packs from Nations alternators?

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/forums/1st-gen-ram-all-topics-93/leece-neville-alternator-6bt-cummins-247286/

  On 2/2/2016 at 9:36 PM, CTcummins24V said:

http://www.nationsstarteralternator.com/180-Amp-HP-High-Output-Alternator-for-2000-Dodge-p/13823-180-hp.htm

http://www.nationsstarteralternator.com/180-Amp-HP-High-Output-Alternator-for-2000-Dodge-p/13874-180-hp.htm

I used the latter on my 2001. Only been in since last summer but it's worked flawlessly so far.

the one you used says 2001- 2002 , I wonder why on that site when I look for one for a 99 , is for  a gasser with a PCM controlled regulator , 180 amp only

When I search for on for a 99 W/ Cummins its only a 270 amp , but it says w/ internal regulator and is 639.95

I thought all the alternators 99- 02 fit gas or diesel ,

I probably would make my own cables , get welding wire and terminal ends , and a buss fuse from a solar place I have bought from ,cheaper .  The mechman site has a cable kit that has 10 ft wires , is there a preferred path to run the positive , different than the smaller factory  pos. wire? so no interference

Also nations site says to use a shorter belt?

  On 2/3/2016 at 1:35 AM, Cowboy said:

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/forums/1st-gen-ram-all-topics-93/leece-neville-alternator-6bt-cummins-247286/

That's a nice write-up but more work than I`m looking for , would like  direct bolt on

Edited February 3, 20169 yr by dieseled

I believe the Nations and the Mechman have smaller pulleys on the alternator hence the possible need for a shorter belt. It does seem that some folks have just used the oe belt size and dont seem to have any problems from wht I have read anyway.

  On 2/3/2016 at 1:42 AM, dieseled said:

the one you used says 2001- 2002 , I wonder why on that site when I look for one for a 99 , is for  a gasser with a PCM controlled regulator , 180 amp only

When I search for on for a 99 W/ Cummins its only a 270 amp , but it says w/ internal regulator and is 639.95

I thought all the alternators 99- 02 fit gas or diesel ,

I probably would make my own cables , get welding wire and terminal ends , and a buss fuse from a solar place I have bought from ,cheaper .  The mechman site has a cable kit that has 10 ft wires , is there a preferred path to run the positive , different than the smaller factory  pos. wire? so no interference

Also nations site says to use a shorter belt?

That's a nice write-up but more work than I`m looking for , would like  direct bolt on

Use the stock belt, the pulley is the same diameter as stock. I would call Nations to verify fitment. Here is another good link to read 

http://www.kentsoil.com/dodgebug1.htm

called them ,Nations for my truck cost 439.00 for a 180 amp , to much

To answer the question , they don't sell diode packs

  On 2/3/2016 at 2:32 PM, CTcummins24V said:

Use the stock belt, the pulley is the same diameter as stock. I would call Nations to verify fitment. Here is another good link to read 

http://www.kentsoil.com/dodgebug1.htm

I went back and checked Mechman's site and it states they have a smaller 1.75" pulley and require a shorter belt. The nations site says states they a custom pulley to allow for more amps at idle but the stock belt can be used. I assumed that meant theirs was smaller also. Assumed being the key word.

Yea nations said they use a smaller pulley and you can get by with a stock belt

Mechmen said to use a 1/2 " shorter belt

Probably has a lot to due with the condition of the idler tensioner and the belt

Sounds like a shorter belt is the  way to go , the way it squeels when you shut them off because of compression  anyway I wouldn`t want it worse

Trying to find a multi meter that reads low enough to check mine so I know if it needs a diode pack if I re-build it and to check a napa one if I buy a new stock e for now

Rural area not much available , mine only reads down to 200vac , leary of driving it much with a new ecm and an unchecked alt

Here is the stocker I pulled out next to the new nations

I wish I could use a 01-02 from nations , but they say the + post is in a diff position and the bolt hole is a different size on the adjust , might be workable , but would hate to find the belt was out of alignment also or something , cost diff is huge between 99 and yours

But I did get a multi meter that reads at 2vac and was shocked to see .175 fluctuating ,  the 20vac scale  read .17 and on the 200vac .1 , I guess when its bad enough you can read it on 200vac. Anyone seen that high of a reading

Went to napa to get what they said on the phone was a new Nippon denso which is what mine is and it turned out to be a new "denso type" made by ? Otherwise its a re- man . I asked about return if it didn't pass a AC test while running on their test machine but checked out for amps , they said no return

Now what order a 3 week out new mechman - nations and not drive it , dot want to replace diode pack I don't think with out it just being a spare , have a brush and bearing kit coming already

Guess I`ll call the stealership and see what they want for a new one

Afraid to drive it now , don't want to eat the ecm I just put in

I guess I didn't have lock unlock because I did the ATS re-wire 8-9 years ago but that was to solve a 2 nd to 3 rd downshift in and out deal , it did solve it

Any one know of a good supplier of new high amp that don't have to build them , withy lead time

Called mean green but they didn't answer

  On 2/3/2016 at 9:40 PM, CTcummins24V said:

Here is the stocker I pulled out next to the new nations

Sure looks the same to me. Again the keyword was "assume". Not always the best thing to do.

Well I thought I would by a diode kit from Larryb`s , but my stock is a nip denso has a plug not terminals for PCM wires so his wont fit , called dodge , had a bad taste in my mouth after thinking of that and would have to order and drive 100 miles round trip to pick up

Plug on the nations 01-02 180amp looks the same as mine , as does the total configuration in the pics on the web site

Had talked to DC Power , another high amp builder I was referred to by BD  power in Wash state , they said they get them for nations ,said if I had terminals not a plug he could send me a plug , but he wanted me to order a 99 still , 469.00 , others I talked to said 98.5-02 the same mounting wise . So I took a chance and ordered the same one CTcummins 24 v did a 01-02 hoping it fits my truck , 2nd day air

Still wondering if .175 seems like a overly high # for blown diodes

  On 2/4/2016 at 1:02 AM, dieseled said:

Still wondering if .175 seems like a overly high # for blown diodes

Yeah... Normally good alternator is around 0.01 to 0.03 AC volts.

Got the alternator from Nations today , the 01-02 , 180 amp , denso hairpin .Plug is in the same place as original in the 99 , the only real diff is the + post is a larger diameter , I drilled out the eye terminal on the trucks wire  , the old had a shroud to keep me from getting zapped when I change the oil , the new doesn't , the old one wont fit it , I`ll get a boot for it  .Pulley is the same size 

The best is it read .022 at the alternator post and body , and it has way higher voltage that my old tired one , thanks CT cummins 24