Steering upgrade

[BBHD]

They seem like good quality pieces. I have about 25k on them and no issues 

[leathermaneod]

Hey guys, 
Just got the kit installed today. Went super smooth all just bolted right on, no clearance issues at the drag link adjuster. Trimmed the TRE's to a 45* and good to go there. That is until I moved the truck and found that the inside of my passenger side wheel rubbed tie rod. That side on the newest part number (52122362AL) is bigger than the driver side and it will rub the rim of a stock 16" alloy wheel. Its so far off you cant even turn the truck to lock on that side. There was no way I was gonna grind that much off the tie rod itself so I went on the hunt for some new wheels. I picked up some stock steel ones off an 04 cummins. They work fine no issues at all. So now I was wondering if anyone had suggestions for good tires for the new wheels stock size is 265/70/17 and that is what I'm going to stay with I think. I will try to post some pics later. And I would appreciate it if anyone has recomendations on good all terrain tires. So far I like Hankook Dynapro ATM, Toyo Open Country AT, or Cooper AT3. I am looking for a tire thats going to last here so let me know what you think!

[CSM]

I am running LT245/74R17 Toyo AT2  and I love them.  

[leathermaneod]

How many miles on them?

Here are the pics from the install.

 

TRE studs cut. Its a shame, had I been intending to get new wheels I wouldn't have had to do this. oh well, didnt really hurt them any.

 

This is just a pic of the tie rod adjustment. We just made the distance between the wheels the same as it was before removing anything. 

 

Heres a shot of the drag link adjuster. Plenty of adjustment there too. Made me mad, just looking at these pics I realized how off center it it and that I should have fixed it when installing it. Oh well I guess. The steering wheel is straight so that what really counts. It has plenty of end in on each side I would think. 

 

Theres an over all shot. Nice how open everything is without the steering brace. So far I dont notice a difference without it.

 

Here is something interesting I noticed. This was before the new stuff so the old linkage did it. Must rub the cross member under compression.

 

Here is where the passenger wheel rub hits the tie rod. We first noticed it when I threw the weight off. Then as I was moving the truck the 100ft back to the front of my garage my buddy notice it had shaved off some aluminum slivers.

With the tie rod against the wheel, it still had another 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch to go before it would contact the stop. So, even if you were willing to grind on the tie rod, you would have to take A LOT of material away to make it work. Especially if you had a weight on the inside of that wheel. The factory 17" steel wheels have a ton of clearance though.

[CSM]

1 hour ago, leathermaneod said:

How many miles on them?

 

 

Probably about 15k.  I've been doing a lot of heavy towing with them and aside from my LH ball joints dying, they have been wearing great.  For the money, they seem to be a good option for a mid price range tire. I like how they sound and run on various ice/snow/mud better than BFG KOs with similar miles... Although new BFG KOs are hard to beat.  

[notlimah]

So just wanted to dons quick follow up on here. Had this kit on a little over a week now with alignment and it's driving fine. Nice to feel like I have some more control over it. 

 

Question for you guys running this kit. Is anyone getting a slight pop or thud when turning while moving slow? Generally happens when I first pull out of a parking spot backing up or something like that. Doesn't sound bad, I think it's probably just the tie rods turning one way or another but I thought it had went away.

 

Anyone else?

[Dieselfuture]

I think you can adjust tie rods so they move alot or not much by rotating them  away from each other or keep them parallel.  May help one way or another. Not sure which one is correct.

[notlimah]

I'm not sure I follow. Have the thread side of the tie rid facing away?

[BIG-BLACK-DODGE]

On July 12, 2016 at 9:27 PM, notlimah said:

So just wanted to dons quick follow up on here. Had this kit on a little over a week now with alignment and it's driving fine. Nice to feel like I have some more control over it. 

 

Question for you guys running this kit. Is anyone getting a slight pop or thud when turning while moving slow? Generally happens when I first pull out of a parking spot backing up or something like that. Doesn't sound bad, I think it's probably just the tie rods turning one way or another but I thought it had went away.

 

Anyone else?

 

Mine makes no noise at all but if I grab the TR with my hand I can still hear a little clunk.

 

one thing I noticed is after I got the truck back from the alignment was the joint ends where it connects to the pitman arm and to the main tie rod were not aligned. Know what i'm saying? The end on the pitman arm was tilted and the other where it connects on the tie rod too so I just put the one straight up snd down then adjust the one where it attaches to the pitman arm sonit was straight up and down. 

 

I wonder if it was supposed to be the other way? Like i wonder if they did that intentionally??

 

Anyway an update on my steering is this thing is still all over the road... Even got pulled over one night because of it!! Haha I told him these dodges r like that and he said" u know it's funny u say that cause I pull over alot of Dodge trucks thinking they are impared" lol

 

So I figured my steering box was the culprit but 

PS box sprung a huge leak other day so I bought a reman from Napa.... Anyway it didn't change a thing other than the fact that it doesn't leak.

I still don't have a steering brace so hopefully that will be a huge improvement when I get one. 

But I do find it steers easier at slow barely moving speeds compared to the way it was with the old steering. 

 

Other than the steering brace the only other possible thing I could do would be the 3rd gen track bar upgrade but my track bar is brand new and I won't be spending money on that other set up. 

[notlimah]

Good to hear man!

 

I have DORs track bar, steering box brace and obviously this steering upgrade and my steering is almost without any play. Just towed 5000lb travel trailer this week and could easily drive with one hand.

 

I'm sorta thinking this clunking I'm hearing is from my control arm bushings being shot. I'm not entirely sure but I think it'll at least be worth replacing to see if that gets rid of the problem.

[trreed]

On 7/5/2016 at 3:59 PM, TFaoro said:

I haven't been able to watch it. I will when I get home. I know my buddy did it on his 01 so it is possible....

I know this is a suuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuper old thread, but I am that buddy, guy.

 

When I put my 4th gen steering upgrade on, I was at stock ride height and on stock wheels.  My steering wheel was a perfect 180* upside down.  I saw the same youtube video linked, and yes, the wheel has a master spline in it. D: So what I did was took the steering shaft off the steering box itself and simply rotated the wheel until it was normal, and put the shaft back on.  To date, I have not had any issues with the clock spring. 

[Royal Squire]

Did you have any clearance problems with your stock wheels?

[trreed]

Yes, I had to grind the TRE stud at an angle to clear the stock wheels

 

[leathermaneod]

Be careful, I did the same thing when I did the upgrade, but realized very quickly that wasn't the only clearance issue. The passenger side of the tie rod was much fatter than the old one. It knocked off the wheel weight and started machining a groove lol. This was with the Mopar kit, so depending what parts you used, may not be an issue. 

[trreed]

I used a molar kit as well. When o had the stock wheels, the weights were on the outside and I never had a clearance issue. Now I have 17" wheels and don't have to worry!

[notlimah]

1 hour ago, leathermaneod said:

Be careful, I did the same thing when I did the upgrade, but realized very quickly that wasn't the only clearance issue. The passenger side of the tie rod was much fatter than the old one. It knocked off the wheel weight and started machining a groove lol. This was with the Mopar kit, so depending what parts you used, may not be an issue. 

 

Dude!! Where you been?!

[leathermaneod]

Haha sorry for the long absence. Sadly, I had to sell my truck. My new job/location made it almost impossible to drive except for very rarely and I just couldn't see having so much $ tied up in something I could barely use. I got 14k for though :-) hoping to own another in the near future, maybe a new one though. I often get to drive a 2016, 4 door, long bed, daully at work and that thing is amazing! It tows like a dream and the factory exhaust brake is wonderful!! 

[notlimah]

Ah damn that's too bad you had to sell the truck but I totally understand. Glad to see you still checking in though. Hope you can land a 4th gen! They're pretty sweet indeed!!

[Scottfunk]

@Mopar1973Man I have two questions for you, the first of which applies to this topic so I'll post both here. Do you know of a good write up for removing the steering knuckle? Also, in my original GMC air conditioning hoses there were what I'm going to call expansion chambers right off of the compressor. These chambers are in conflict with the air intake horn with regards to space. Are these things necessary or can I have some hoses made to eliminate them?

 

[Mopar1973Man]

22 hours ago, Scottfunk said:

Do you know of a good write up for removing the steering knuckle?

 

Hmmm... At least Dodge wise I would remove the rotor and axle bearing then pull the shaft out. Now remove the two nuts holding the knuckle. Typically I take a small sledgehammer and strike the areas near the tapers and then right near the top hit it hard. Then it pops loose. Done this a few times and work rather well. Worse case you make warm the knuckle up some with some heat to break any rust loose. 

 

As for the A/C line I'd say just have new ones made up to fit the Cummins. I don't think the chambers are required. I think it was for noise reduction on how the the old GM compressor function.