Finally after all these years I wore out the parking brake shoes and the rear cables are hanging up which doesn't help either. So I pull the driver side apart to look things over and see if I could free the cable up. That was fairly easy just tape a funnel to the cable end and pour a bit of diesel fuel in the funnel and push and pull the cable. This freed the cable up again for now. Closer inspection I wore on shoe down to the steel and just about to make steel to steel contact with the drum. So for about $90 buck I'm getting two new rear cables and set of parking brake shoes for the truck. Explains why the truck would creep off on me. I should have parts by tomorrow...

Good luck. I did mine a while back but my cables were working fine so I did not replace. I do however need to adjust them again. Broke my release handle the other day and now all I have to figure out is how pop the little rod out of the the release under the dash. Sure is hard to get my big hands in there.

My passenger side cable the outer jacket is split open and you can see the cable inside. I don't think it will last another winter like that. The driver side cable was sticking really bad and wore the driver side shoes out for me. I was wonder about why odd noise as it would creep. No brake lining left. I need to wire brush the threads on the adjuster it so darn stiff to turn and PITA to adjust any more. So parts will be here tomorrow.

How much resistance should the parking brake really give? I've heard a mixed bag from rock solid to just slight resistance.

Parking brake should be able to hold the vehicle from rolling on a mild slope. Now with a trailer it may or may not still hold as well but it does help to have it properly adjusted. Basically adjust your star wheels so the pad are nearly making contact to the drum. Then the cable should have small amount of slack I normally check by pulling the cables together at the adjustment I should be able to see a small gap at the adjustment nut.

8 minutes ago, notlimah said:

I've heard a mixed bag from rock solid to just slight resistance.

 

Guys like myself that live in the mountains it better hold that truck rock solid in place. Other than that I might find my truck at the bottom of a canyon.

 

How hard is it to adjust? If you over tightend would it be noticeable, like hot rear brakes or something?

5 minutes ago, notlimah said:

How hard is it to adjust?

 

All right here...

 

5 minutes ago, notlimah said:

If you over tightend would it be noticeable, like hot rear brakes or something?

 

Well if you go too far just depends on how far over done. If lightly over adjusted then the drum section will be hot and stink of hot brake pads. Really go to far it might really pull down the MPG numbers or not move at all. You can adjust them so tight the truck doesn't move.

I adjusted mine until they started to grab then backed them off a couple clicks until you just barely heard them touch the drum. They were all new parts and as they wore in I should have adjusted them again. Got to easy for the engine to overcome them and they just got weaker due to operator error. Going to try and readjust them this weekend.

 

I have got to get the new release handle on. Sucks pulling on the rod.

Edited July 1, 20168 yr by dripley

I did mine within the last year. I went with two new MOPAR rear brake cables. I have always had bad luck with aftermarket cables almost always never fitting right... Seems to hold true with ATV's as well... 

But for the e brake shoes i just went with a good set from NAPA. I adjust them up so they just start to rub then i always spin the rotor to center everything then check again. 

Mine will hold me pretty good but i always leave it in 1st gear as well as put the Ebrake on when on a steep grade. 

 

I have forgot it on a few times ( i hate when i do that) so now they are loose again... Then last winter i got stuck in snow going into my hunting camp, threw some tire chains on i made for 37" tires and they were loose for my then 32"ers... Chains ended up bustting something off back there... Forget what it was but somewhere the cable hooks in. Anyway my fault but i was in a bind in the middle of no where. 

I did get out though... Lol

 

8 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Parking brake should be able to hold the vehicle from rolling on a mild slope. Now with a trailer it may or may not still hold as well but it does help to have it properly adjusted. Basically adjust your star wheels so the pad are nearly making contact to the drum. Then the cable should have small amount of slack I normally check by pulling the cables together at the adjustment I should be able to see a small gap at the adjustment nut.

 

Guys like myself that live in the mountains it better hold that truck rock solid in place. Other than that I might find my truck at the bottom of a canyon.

 

 

That's nice country. Where was that pic? 

About 4 miles up from Lucile, ID on Cow Creek Rd. I was coming back from cutting firewood.

It is beautiful up there....... a place where there are no clocks nor time.

Edited July 1, 20168 yr by JAG1

Still green. NICE!

Usually when I get my parking brakes installed and adjusted properly I drive at slow speed and apply parking brake few times on and off just to get them seated in the place than after few times doing that I check the adjustment.

I adjust mine so it doesn't drag and bites well without excessive pedal throw. Not scientific.

I got the new parking brake shoes installed and the new brake cables. Sad to say I did make a bit of contact with all 4 shoes. Parking brake drums where OK and I'll just re-use them. Personally if I had a shop that could turn drums I would of had them cleaned up. Both rear cables were shot and binding up. The few things I learned about this is double check the place and rotation of the adjuster. In either side the adjuster is turned away from the axle to tighten the shoes. Also pay close attention to the lever side and the shoe placement really easy to miss the notch. As for adjusting the brakes like this time I adjusted till they stopped and backed off about 2 clicks still had a bit of drag. As for the cables I found a small secret for getting the old ones removed easy. There is 3 locking tabs using a flat blade screwdriver press the tabs in on the 2 hardest tab on the easy one swivel it to the notch and it should slide out. Cable slack adjustment took me a bit of playing with. I wanted a good holding power at about 3/4 to nearly full pedal. My driveway was a perfect slope for testing and adjusting on. I wanted to make sure not to over adjust and be stretching out the cables.

 

 

 

On ‎2016‎-‎07‎-‎01 at 5:35 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

About 4 miles up from Lucile, ID on Cow Creek Rd. I was coming back from cutting firewood.

 

Will be doing the disc brake adjustment on mine soon.

OEM brake cables have worked the best for me too ..... quad / truck / motorcycle.

Have a photograph of my motorcycle in front of the Lucile Post Office .... my FXRS Lowrider is named Lucille.

I was looking under my truck the other day following speed sensor wires and I noticed the e brake cable on the drivers side wasn't secured in place by the metal clip on the axle. Looks like it has been rubbing and vibrating on a small suspension link. Both the outside cable sheath and the link have notches rubbed in them. So I will be replacing my cable soon. Hopefully it hasn't rubbed through and started letting moisture inside the cable. For now the e brake works and feels fine but I'm sure as soon as it gets cold or the weather goes bad the cable will do the same.