On to the next problem, a leaking head gasket.

[The_Hammer]

@Mopar1973Man If this was your truck how would you go about flushing the rust out of the cooling system?

 

Have yet another issue. Like a dummy I forgot to unplug the coolant temp sensor when removing the head and broke the sensor and the flipping plug   Where would a person find another plug at?

Edited July 19, 2016 by The_Hammer

[Me78569]

mouser has most all plugs.  

 

ECT plug

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=12162193virtualkey63000000virtualkey829-12162193

[The_Hammer]

@Me78569 Thanks!

 

We'll the two manifold bolts that broke off would not come out after applying heat and using an easy out. So, I'm drilling it out and using longer bolts with nuts. 

 

The valve guides don't have any play whatsoever, awesome. I'm about to do a light lapping with some fine clover compound.

[The_Hammer]

Yay or nay on the exhaust valves?

 

 

ETA: Answered my own question, they leak 

 

ETA #2: After 20 minutes lapping the leaking valve I just about have it sealed up. It would be a lot easier if I had something stouter than fine lapping compound  I'll be picking up some medium and corse compound tomorrow.

Edited July 20, 2016 by The_Hammer

[Dieselfuture]

Doesn't look horrible,  I'd use it. I say that now but if I had mine out I'd be taking it to the shop for a valve job decking cleaning and magnaflaxing to be sure. But at the same time it ran fine before. Depends on how much money you don't need. 

[The_Hammer]

@Dieselfuture The head has been cleaned, pressure tested, and resurfaced. In a perfect world I'd have a valve job done but I'm running out of funds for this, especially since I'm still working on my house. 

[Mopar1973Man]

As for the block flush, it list here on M73M.com in an old post. The product is a clear liquid sold in a round 1-gallon jug and more or less a plain white label if I remember right. It's a pretty stout chemical being it will remove rust and scale build-up from the entire cooling system. It's actually designed for engines. If I'm not mistaken Cummins sells it. (IIRC...)

Edited July 20, 2016 by Mopar1973Man

[TFaoro]

13 hours ago, The_Hammer said:

Yay or nay on the exhaust valves?

 

 

ETA: Answered my own question, they leak 

 

ETA #2: After 20 minutes lapping the leaking valve I just about have it sealed up. It would be a lot easier if I had something stouter than fine lapping compound  I'll be picking up some medium and corse compound tomorrow.

The valve itself looks good! Not sharp on the edge, no deep grooves, etc. Assuming the stem looks good and you can get them all sealed up you should be good to go!

[The_Hammer]

[TFaoro]

2 hours ago, The_Hammer said:

Last pic isn't working for me...

Also, I would use a wire wheel (if available) to clean the carbon build-up off of them. A wire brush would probably work too.

[The_Hammer]

@TFaoro I only posted two pics, don't know what the third one that's not showing up is about . I got the majority of the carbon off before installing the valves.

 

Finally got all the valves to seal, only took most of the day to do it lol.

[The_Hammer]

Finally got her back together today. I was losing a LOT of compression from the leaking exhaust valves, my turbo sounds completely different now, like a normal HX35. It's never sounded like other 12v trucks until now. The power has increased quite a bit as well, it's VERY noticeable to say the least. It idles smoother and just sounds better too. I'm also happy to finally have a 4k GSK, now the truck pulls hard all the way to 3800 rpm or so.

 

I'm running without a thermostat for now while I flush the rust out of everything. I'm going to order some Evaporust Thermocure to try and flush it all out. Once I'm done I'll be filling with 50/50 premix, which brand I'm not sure yet

Edited July 23, 2016 by The_Hammer

[dripley]

[The_Hammer]

My starter isn't liking the extra compression, guess it's time to rebuild it