Why would a draw straw be abandoned?

[015point9]

I dropped the fuel tank today to clean up extra hoses and tubes and fix a small leak at the sump.   I had no idea I had so much stuff on top of the tank.  The end of the straw is probably a match head of inch from bottom of tank. 

What is your best guess of why a draw straw would be installed one day and next day after installing it says he is going to install a sump?

Thanks

 

[TFaoro]

Drawstraws are notorious for having 1/4 tank issues. Personally I would never run one if it wasn't in the basket. 

[015point9]

50 minutes ago, 015point9 said:

(sorry, tried to edit)

 

 

Edited October 31, 2016 by 015point9
Because I messed up

[dripley]

I dont know why you would put one in one day and write it off the next. It does appear to be on the corner of the tank and might have caused some issues being above the bottom of the tank.

[Mopar1973Man]

9 hours ago, TFaoro said:

Drawstraws are notorious for having 1/4 tank issues. Personally I would never run one if it wasn't in the basket. 

Then there is rare people like myself that have been running drawstraw outside a basket for 10 plus years and not really had any problems.

[notlimah]

So I'm running a drawstraw in the basket, but I feel that the majority of people have issues with them due to improper installation. Plus I think the ol' adage of "you only hear about the problems on the internet" reins true here as well. Either way, the flip flop of one to another doesn't make sense to me as it only adds more work, but who knows!

[015point9]

Op here adding on with couple of questions...

 

Also the sump had a little leak, turns out 2 bolts are bad, ordered a few more couple min ago from FASS,  won't see parts till Fri.  $47.00 for that horse shoe clamp thing at the bottom of tank, plus $8.00 shipping.

 

My modulator has the AN fitting on top of it, that was used over 9 years when FASS  was put in (2005). When the 9 year old pump quit, the mechanic put in the new draw straw because he said the straw in modulator was not strong enough for as hard as these pumps suck. Even though it worked for over 9 years.  I didn't question it at the time. All I knew at the time the truck ran like it was running out of fuel. (I bet it still works) Then after mechanic installed a new draw straw (close to the bucket but not in) it didn't work right and he said a sump was best way to go.   Then after sump installed said it was the pump.  Then we drove from Yuma to Seattle.  Wanted to cleaning up the "hack" job of an install.  Shorten the fuel hose and wiring that was dangling down almost hitting the ground,  and the pump rubbing on the brake line and return lines etc.  So thought I would "clean up" the sloppy work before I installed pressure gauge. 

 

Not whining, just how it turned out.  This has been our first bad experience with owning the "mighty Dodge". 

 

So in the mean time while waiting for parts, thinking about doing the following.

 

Start at the other end of the fuel system and install the pressure gauge. Being the tank is removed,  after installing pressure gauge, run the fuel system out of a 5 gallon bucket, so I can test pressure gauge and rest of system.  I think what hoses need to end up in the bucket are:

-airdog supply line to VP44

-airdog return line

-2 return lines from motor also in bucket. 

 

Any suggestions?

 

Thanks

[TFaoro]

55 minutes ago, 015point9 said:

-2 return lines from motor also in bucket. 

Why do you have 2 return lines coming from the motor??? There should be only one. 

 

Other than that, looks good. 

[dripley]

Would not want to leave the supply connected to the VP to test the pressure? Ditto on the return line. The VP return and cylinder head return join together at tee near the rear of the engine. 

[015point9]

14 minutes ago, TFaoro said:

Why do you have 2 return lines coming from the motor??? There should be only one. 

 

Other than that, looks good. 

 

I'll check that out.  Looks to me airdig line back to tank from pump and 2 alum tubes (may 1/4) lines coming back from motor.  Will check out and get back.

Thanks

14 minutes ago, dripley said:

Would not want to leave the supply connected to the VP to test the pressure? Ditto on the return line. The VP return and cylinder head return join together at tee near the rear of the engine. 

 

Would it be alright to plug off line to VP just after gauge and use air to test pressure gauge?  My regulator on air compressor is accurate than one of my tire gauges.

[TFaoro]

8 minutes ago, 015point9 said:

 

I'll check that out.  Looks to me airdig line back to tank from pump and 2 alum tubes (may 1/4) lines coming back from motor.  Will check out and get back.

Thanks

One of those lines was the factory supply, and one of them is the return  

[015point9]

Op here...

Looks like one line goes to OEM fuel filter, that is no longer being used.

Other line is connected with a banjo bolt on passenger side near rear of motor.

 

Top of module...1 line goes to long rubber hose.  Other line goes to the white nipple next to where black hose connects.

 

AN fitting that is blocked off is where old FASS was hooked up to. 

The gray nipple (about 1200 position in pic) nothing is connected.  I assume a vent?

 

 

Edited October 31, 2016 by 015point9

[dripley]

The upper line is the return from the VP and the head. The lower line appears to be connected to the OE carter pump. This is all on the drivers side. I dont know of any fuel lines on the passenger side.

 

The gray nipple is the vent. The other two connections is supply and return from the OE setup. Maybe the PO left the carter in for a back up to the fass. 

[015point9]

42 minutes ago, dripley said:

The upper line is the return from the VP and the head. The lower line appears to be connected to the OE carter pump. This is all on the drivers side. I dont know of any fuel lines on the passenger side.

 

The gray nipple is the vent. The other two connections is supply and return from the OE setup. Maybe the PO left the carter in for a back up to the fass. 

 

The new setup,  the fuel line goes from the sump on tank to the airdog pump and filters and then to VP44.

 

Can I just unbolt and remove the OE set up?  

 

I got drivers side and passenger side messed up while looking up from underneath

Edited November 1, 2016 by 015point9

[dripley]

If it is not in use I see no reason why not. The bracket that the pump is mounted to has to stay. It covers the hole in the block where the old mechanical pump was for the 12V engines.

 

Cap the old fuel line on the fuel basket so nothing foreign gets in the tank.

Edited November 1, 2016 by dripley

[IBMobile]

I'd seal the old fuel line too. You never know when you might need to use it. I use mine as a return line from the pressure regulator to the filler neck for the Fuel Boss.

[015point9]

Thanks  for info.  If it makes any difference here is pic of rest of the "Frankenstein" fuel tank.

 

 

[notlimah]

So besides the 'couldn't make up their mind' syndrome that your fuel system has suffered from, is everything running fine? It looks like it's setup ok and should be running fine.

 

That fuel module looks like it has really high sides on it. I wonder how much they varied from year to year because that looks nothing like mine that came out of my 02. Either that or it's an aftermarket module.

[dripley]

Did yours look more like this. This is the in tank module before I modified for the AD. I think his is the OE. Not sure though

[notlimah]

Yea that's exactly what mine looks like. If his is OEM then what is ours?!