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Is 2 micron small enough to pass thru fuel system


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I drained my fuel from my fuel tank into 5 gallon buckets because I needed to fix leaky sump and mount Airdog pump in better spot.   When I got ready to pure fuel back in noticed rather large beads of whatever (water, dirt, etc) mixed in with fuel.  Finding micron sizing stuff on line, I ran fuel thru coffee filters (supposed to be around 20 microns).  The fuel still didn’t look good to me.  I then removed Airdog pump from truck and hung it in the fence and with long wires and a remote 12 volt switch and have been running fuel thru the Airdog filters.  Airdog says one if its filters is 2 micron.  I believe that filter is the one with a water drain valve.   Fuel now looks “clean” to me.  I was going to throw away about 25 gallons just to be 100% safe.  But local auto part store recycle tank is full and has been for over 2 weeks.  Wife gets upset with me when I pure out along fence.  And surprising fuel doesn’t control weeds as much as I thought it would. 

So…Is there anything less than 2 micron is size that could mess up injectors or VP pump or anywhere else in fuel system?

 

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The thing to watch with 2 micron filters is to make sure you are running the proper blend to keep it from waxing in the cold, even a very slight wax will plug the 2 micron filter real quick. Also goog to keep or go with fuel heaters if running in cold climate with 2 micron fuel filters. The early Duramax diesels had a really horrible time with this issue early on. Guys used to buy filters by the case around here and carry with them not knowing the basics of the fuel system. Guys were dumping 911 and other bad fuel conditioners in like mad and many were killing injectors along with it. I just laughed when listening to them ***** all the time.

Edited by Wild and Free
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Like even with my Donaldson filters I'm running that are listed at 3 micron are a filtering in the cold it pulls the fuel pressure down due to a restriction of the filter media itself. Once the fuel temperature warms up to about 50*F the pressures are basically back to normal. At 3 microns I'm filtering out red blood cells and white blood cells. So any wax starts to form its takes very little to start plugging up the filters. Like myself I'm thinking of returning back to 10 micron filters and just run double stacked like I am right now. This is my last 3 micron filter at the moment so when I re-order I'll go back to 10 micron. 

 

10 micron = 0.000393701 Inch

3 Micron = 0.00011811 Inch

 

That's a difference of... 0.000275591 (or 2 tenths of a thousandths) 

 

 

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Op here...Thanks for info. 

 

I made a mistake.  Filter I do have is 3 micron.  Ordered 4 from last time I ordered from Vulcan.   http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Fuel-Water-Separator-AirDog-Fuel-Preporator-p/ff100-2.htm

 

1.  So whatever I drained from my tank should be OK after filtering it thru a 3 micron?

 

2.  "returning back to 10 micron filters and just run double stacked" 

Terminology question....by doubled stacked I assume you mean filtering thru a ten micron filter twice?

 

3. "make sure you are running the proper blend to keep it from waxing"

What temps do you guys start making sure you have the proper blend to keep it from waxing in the cold?

 

 

 

 

Edited by 015point9
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25 minutes ago, 015point9 said:

2.  "returning back to 10 micron filters and just run double stacked" 

Terminology question....by doubled stacked I assume you mean filtering thru a ten micron filter twice?

 

Currently, my AirDog 150 is the 3-micron filter. I'm going to change it to 10-micron filter then it's filtered again on the stock filter which is again a 10-micron filter as well. So I'm double stacked. Filtered the first time at the AirDog and second time at the engine on the stock filter housing. 

 

25 minutes ago, 015point9 said:

3. "make sure you are running the proper blend to keep it from waxing"

What temps do you guys start making sure you have the proper blend to keep it from waxing in the cold?

 

I don't even worry about it. I've already researched all my local fuel suppliers know what their pour points typically are. They are typically much lower than what going to have for weather. In 15 years of driving this Cummins I've NEVER gelled once. I don't use any pour point depressant additives (anti-gel) or cetane boosters. My coldest day so far has been -31*F and no issues. 

Edited by Mopar1973Man
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Personally I don't like the filters that have Air Dog badging on them as you don't actually know what filter it is. 

 

3um is what you want, as long at it's really 3um. You also have to be careful with AD f/w separators if you have any of the old ones that sucked and were much worse than stock. 

 

Donaldson P551315 and a Baldwin BF1275 are the only filters I would run if I owned an AD. 

 

IMHO 10um isn't good enough for diesel injection pumps, especially when 3um is available and won't effect flow until plugged... and if it's plugging you want better filtration! 

 

Some of the 10um filters that fit the AD don't have the flow rating of the 3um Donaldson so you are actually not even getting the 10um rating out of it. 

 

I wouldn't have poured the diesel out as a new set of filters costs less. 

 

In terms of gelling it depends on local averages and when the fuel is conditioned. The only issues I have had are when the weather gets colder than normal. I've had two gelling issues, once at -8°F with B20 in the tank (gelled completely) and once at -19° with fuel winterized for about 0° and I had a bad fuse holder on my fuel heater (pressure dropped but it still ran, just starting to plug the filter). The next night got to -28° and I didn't have any issues with a working fuel heater. 

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The way Mopar1973Man  is filtering his it fuel with two filters the same size, it would be interesting to see what second filter picked up that first filter missed.  If he is using different brands of filters.  Probably pretty hard to do without equipment?

 

The only problem I've ever had with filter was one time the rubber seal at top cracked and leaked fuel.  Filter was a fleet guard used on a FASS pump. 

 

 

 

Edited by 015point9
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Mike is using the factory fuel filter also. I use mine too. So the filters are different. I am running the Donaldson and Baldwin as mentioned above and currently dont have a filter in the oe canister. I keep forgetting to put one back in after changing the AD pump motor.

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2 hours ago, 015point9 said:

The way Mopar1973Man  is filtering his it fuel with two filters the same size, it would be interesting to see what second filter picked up that first filter missed.  If he is using different brands of filters.  Probably pretty hard to do without equipment?

 

The only problem I've ever had with filter was one time the rubber seal at top cracked and leaked fuel.  Filter was a fleet guard used on a FASS pump. 

 

 

 

 

Was a little bit of oil put on the o-ring prior to install?

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52 minutes ago, notlimah said:

 

Was a little bit of oil put on the o-ring prior to install?

 

Yes, dabbed bit of oil on seal before install.  Maybe I should use diesel instead of oil?  Thinking about it further the failure might of been alum stock that the o ring screws against.  Always had to tighten up quit a bit, or it would leak if not really tight. 

 

Mopar1973Man posting of those filters make me wonder.  One would think by now in 2017 buying clean fuel wouldn't be a problem.  And that condensation would be the only worry.  

 

Talking with the small gas engine shop about a carb on a generator, he said Honda has a CYA thing and says gas is only good for 6 months before it starts going bad.  Don't know fact or not. 

 

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, AH64ID said:

IIRC the factory filter for 00+ got bumped to a 7um filter. 

 

Personally 10um isn't enough, even if there are 2 of them. 

You are correct, anything bought through a dealer is a 7UM fleet guard packaged as Chrysler part. I think most now cross over automatically to the 7 micron but it never hurts to check and ask.

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