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are springs and push rods necessary for my moderate build?

Brignac
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Brignac

Brignac

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My plan here pretty soon is to go with a 62/68/12 or 14 BW turbo and possibly 150 vco or sac injectors. Ive talked to a couple sales reps and they said i should consider upgrading my springs and push rods as well. I dont feel like this setup would warrant the need to upgrade the springs and rods so I am asking for some input? Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated. This is my DD so the most important thing is reliability but I also want to have some fun from time to time as well so if anyone has any other build suggestions let me know. I do not tow much often enough to have build that is used for towing. 

Me78569

Me78569

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4 minutes ago, Brignac said:

My plan here pretty soon is to go with a 62/68/12 or 14 BW turbo and possibly 150 vco or sac injectors. Ive talked to a couple sales reps and they said i should consider upgrading my springs and push rods as well. I dont feel like this setup would warrant the need to upgrade the springs and rods so I am asking for some input? Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated. This is my DD so the most important thing is reliability but I also want to have some fun from time to time as well so if anyone has any other build suggestions let me know. I do not tow much often enough to have build that is used for towing. 

The sentence in red tells me you should do it right the first time, even if it isn't %100 needed.

 

I would personally do them for piece of mind if you like it wrap it out ever, well at least springs.   However I would put studs on the list as a requirement.   without being able to control fueling or timing you REALLY want to have studs holding the head down once you stepup in fueling.  

 

47re + llift + big tires = a TON of load that you are gonna be using the skinny pedal to get around. high load + low rpm + aftermarket injectors = stud time ( at least in my mind)

Cronus577

Cronus577

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I would worry about studs before springs and rods at 49PSI and below. I doubt you'll be boosting that much with a single 62/68/12 for a long duration due to toasty EGT's. But would definitely consider it in the future for peace of mind. There's an article floating around that I can't find right now that gives you a bunch of info about upgraded valve springs for cheap. I believe they're the same ones that are for a dodge neon. I'd link it but can't seem to find it anymore.

Brignac

Brignac

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I already have ARP studs, not currently installed, but will install at the same time I do the injectors. Seeing as ill have it apart that is why they recommended doing the springs and rods. I never wrap the gauge and never plan to most of my daily driving never puts me over 70mph (especially now that Im in DC im lucky if I get over 35 going home after work.) As far as playing goes its more about wanting it but not needing it... or atleast thats what my wife says. 

And Cronus577 i know the thread you are talking about and have read through it. If I do end up doing the springs and rods I will probably go that route. DAP quoted me 2300 for everything (turbo, injectors, springs, and rods). However the "neon" springs are cheaper and the manton rods are as well compared to what DAP is trying to sell their parts for. I will more than likely get the turbo and injectors from them because they have treated me well in the past and have better prices than most especially when you talk to them directly. My thing is was the need for springs and rods just a sells pitch and not really necessary. If the consensus is that they should be done I will do it. 

Me78569

Me78569

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You are already gonna be in there doing studs so I would say just do springs and rods for peace of mind.    Rods aren't really needed springs are quesitonable, but as with all of us we tend to build and build and build.  

 

I like knowing my valve train is in good shape, I never rev out to to 3700 like the Quadzilla can do, but it is nice to know that I can stick it in 2nd and not worry.

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jlbayes

jlbayes

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I used to be on the kick of keeping stock pushrods. After bending 6 last year...no more. If you pay attention and look around pushrods nor valve springs are expensive.

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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On 6/5/2017 at 8:19 AM, jlbayes said:

I used to be on the kick of keeping stock pushrods. After bending 6 last year...no more. If you pay attention and look around pushrods nor valve springs are expensive.

 

May I ask what was the cause of the pushrod failure?

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jlbayes

jlbayes

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Was rpm related or misadjustment. It did bend one of the intakes which it proceeded to throw off out on the dunes. That was a fun ride home on 5 cylinders.

  • 2 weeks later...
Carbur8tr

Carbur8tr

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On 6/12/2017 at 8:09 AM, jlbayes said:

Was rpm related or misadjustment. It did bend one of the intakes which it proceeded to throw off out on the dunes. That was a fun ride home on 5 cylinders.

I bet it was fun while it lasted, and are you referring to your valve lash just being too tight?

 

Op, I've  been running the Crower springs and drive my truck at minimum 60 miles a day and have for the last 3 years or so. Springs have been in for around 5 years now and no problems.  Still on the stock push rods and no issues.  As long as you don't plan to go above 3700 or so you should be fine with the stock pushrods.

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AH64ID

AH64ID

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Stock springs are fine if you keep the rpms stock and the boost below 50ish. If you either plan to rev it up or do a lot of boost then get springs. If you get springs then do pushrods. 

 

I did springs with my rebuild even thou I don't plan on rpms or boost. I just wanted it built tough! Turns out I needed them for the backpressure on the exhaust brake with my new cam. I can hit 75 psi of backpressure now!!

jlbayes

jlbayes

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On 6/24/2017 at 8:48 AM, Carbur8tr said:

I bet it was fun while it lasted, and are you referring to your valve lash just being too tight?

 

Op, I've  been running the Crower springs and drive my truck at minimum 60 miles a day and have for the last 3 years or so. Springs have been in for around 5 years now and no problems.  Still on the stock push rods and no issues.  As long as you don't plan to go above 3700 or so you should be fine with the stock pushrods.

 

No I wasn't.

 

On 6/24/2017 at 11:22 AM, AH64ID said:

Stock springs are fine if you keep the rpms stock and the boost below 50ish. If you either plan to rev it up or do a lot of boost then get springs. If you get springs then do pushrods. 

 

I did springs with my rebuild even thou I don't plan on rpms or boost. I just wanted it built tough! Turns out I needed them for the backpressure on the exhaust brake with my new cam. I can hit 75 psi of backpressure now!!

 

I was floating valves at 40psi and 3200rpm. I am not a fan of that 50psi I see getting thrown around. It is too high imo.

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AH64ID

AH64ID

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That's interesting that you were floating there. Maybe the 24V has different springs? The HPCR ISB is rated for 15 seconds up to 4200 rpms so I wouldn't expect float at stock boost levels (32 psi). 

 

Actually I do think the HPCR uses ~75lb springs so that would explain the 50 psi number. 

 

 

Edited by AH64ID
jlbayes

jlbayes

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Interesting as I was led to believe they were the same springs between the vp ISB as the "60lb marine" springs. Good to know! As cr seem to not have the valve float issues vp trucks do.

Carbur8tr

Carbur8tr

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Posted
On 6/12/2017 at 8:09 AM, jlbayes said:

Was rpm related or misadjustment. It did bend one of the intakes which it proceeded to throw off out on the dunes. That was a fun ride home on 5 cylinders.

So what were you referring to by "misadjustment" then?

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