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It’s totally up to you and I understand how tight money can be but I highly recommend doing a full system. Whether it be a Raptor without filters or the normal Airdog or Fass just donut all at once. It’s also very highly recommended that you relocate the pump. If not I promise you you will wear our pumps right and left. I was in this same spot 2 months ago. I wanted to just keep the factory location and stuff but I went with a Fass 150 with 1/2 inch lines and haven’t looked back. I have 20 psi at idle and 16 18 wot. Trust me it was worth it!

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I would NOT get a raptor. Just my :2cents:.

I'll be doing a mechanical hopefully this year, I'm kinda hoping my raptor will crap out and then I can get another under warranty.( I talked to a sales rep for raptor at alligator diesels dyno event last fall and told him the issues I'm having, which he brushed off. he said they changed a diaphram internally, but that means little to nothing to me.)Plus with a mechanical pump, the raptor is only used to prime the system, or so im told. 

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One point I haven't seen mentioned yet regarding line size is that bigger diameter hose increases the volume of fuel into the vp. 

 

More volume equals more fuel to keep the injection pump cool. 

 

On my old truck I had the block mounted stock lift pump. 

 

Went to stand alone 95gph fass with 3/8 lines to stock filter then 1/2" vulcan to vp. Never messed with fuel tank. 

 

That pump got tired and once I did the wiretap, that was too much for it. 

 

Put a stand alone 150 fass adjustable in with 1/2" lines all the way up. Dialed the pump in to 20lbs and fuel pressure did not budge. Period. 

 

Little truck had a 165 Airdog with 1/2" lines all the way and no stock filter canister. Stayed at 20 lbs and would maybe drop to 18-19 on Mach3 bomb runs. No idea what tank mods were done. 

 

New truck had in tank lift pump. New Fass Titanium 165 was just put in. Draw straw in tank, 1/2" lines to stock filter, 1/2 vulcan to vp44. 

 

When test gauge was hooked up 20lbs rock solid. Gauges are next on my list so we will see how it does. 

Edited by Ben
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23 hours ago, portlandareae28 said:

If everything surrounding the DDRP is stock, is it limiting the DDRP/fuel pressure?  Would it be beneficial to increase fuel line size? And what other benefit that would also be beneficial when I upgrade from the DDRP to either a more powerful mechanical or electric pump should I do?

I went with the mechanical fuel pump from GDP when my raptor 100 bit the dust, and glad I did. 

I run a steady 18 psi. at idle and maintain the same at WOT.

I chose to go strictly mechanical with no back up electric, mostly because my electric pump was shot and I did not want to purchase another and I also did not want to have all the extra plumbing involved and to be free of all the other clutter. 

I already had the 1/2 draw straw and 1/2 fuel line comming out of tank from when I installed the raptor so I just cut it off below the tank and made a bracket and bulkhead with a shut off valve where my raptor was mounted to the frame. Then I just used the supplied 3/8 Parker push lok and jic fittings that were supplied with the mechanical pump, along with a 24 micron pre pump strainer, and I am still using the stock fuel filter canister mostly because I want the factory fuel heater in the winter, it hasn’t let me down yet.  Here’s a pic of the bulkhead I made to transition from the 1/2 fuel line to the supplied 3/8 line that the GDP pump uses. With that done, the 1/2 big line kit from factory filter to VP is recommended 

 

F629B5C0-4B40-4B56-B814-7A797404A45A.jpeg

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6 hours ago, Ben said:

One point I haven't seen mentioned yet regarding line size is that bigger diameter hose increases the volume of fuel into the vp.

 

Also makes for stable pressures from idle to WOT. Smaller the line size like 3/8" hose now the pressure starts dropping more. Stock lines are barely 6mm ID and even smaller in the banjo bolts. Really restrictive so the demand volume tends to outweigh the supply volume and pressure drops bad like 5-10 PSI

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12 hours ago, 01cummins4ever said:

I went with the mechanical fuel pump from GDP when my raptor 100 bit the dust, and glad I did. 

I run a steady 18 psi. at idle and maintain the same at WOT.

I chose to go strictly mechanical with no back up electric, mostly because my electric pump was shot and I did not want to purchase another and I also did not want to have all the extra plumbing involved and to be free of all the other clutter. 

I already had the 1/2 draw straw and 1/2 fuel line comming out of tank from when I installed the raptor so I just cut it off below the tank and made a bracket and bulkhead with a shut off valve where my raptor was mounted to the frame. Then I just used the supplied 3/8 Parker push lok and jic fittings that were supplied with the mechanical pump, along with a 24 micron pre pump strainer, and I am still using the stock fuel filter canister mostly because I want the factory fuel heater in the winter, it hasn’t let me down yet.  Here’s a pic of the bulkhead I made to transition from the 1/2 fuel line to the supplied 3/8 line that the GDP pump uses. With that done, the 1/2 big line kit from factory filter to VP is recommended 

 

F629B5C0-4B40-4B56-B814-7A797404A45A.jpeg

 

I am digging this setup!!

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20 hours ago, Alexio Auditore said:

I would NOT get a raptor. Just my :2cents:.

I'll be doing a mechanical hopefully this year, I'm kinda hoping my raptor will crap out and then I can get another under warranty.( I talked to a sales rep for raptor at alligator diesels dyno event last fall and told him the issues I'm having, which he brushed off. he said they changed a diaphram internally, but that means little to nothing to me.)Plus with a mechanical pump, the raptor is only used to prime the system, or so im told. 

Just to let you know the AirDog Raptor is a gerotor pump. There isn't a diaphragm in these pumps at all.

 

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