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TheGreatWhite

New A/C Compressor, Orifice Tube, and Accumulator, and now clutch wont engage.

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Posted (edited)

Finally got around to redoing my A/C after sweating my butt off for a month. Replaced the Accumulator, Orface tube, and bought a clutched that worked from a buddy of mine, added refrigerant to it and the clutch isnt engaging when I turn on Max A/C and everything. My gauge is reading about 120 and according to my phone its about 82* right now. Anything helps, thanks!!

 

Edit: I forgot to mention the 120psi is on the low side and yes I did evacuate the system for 45min.

Edited by TheGreatWhite

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question, you are reading 120 psi on the low side? (fill connection)  did you evacuate the system, I would jumper the low pressure switch that is on accumulator to see if the compressor comes on. (paper clip accros the connections of the low side switch) for starters.

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3 minutes ago, Ed ke6bnl said:

question, you are reading 120 psi on the low side? (fill connection)  did you evacuate the system, I would jumper the low pressure switch that is on accumulator to see if the compressor comes on. (paper clip accros the connections of the low side switch) for starters.

Yes excuse me I forgot to say that, yes I did evacuate the system and yes thats what its reading on the low side. Is the pressure switch you are talking about the one on top of the canister that is the accumulator?

@Ed ke6bnl could it be a bad sensor on the line that comes off the back of the compressor? My dad had the same problem on his 03 and had to replace that sensor

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FYI a lot of these sensors can be changed without discharging the system. There should be a shrader valve behind the sensor that will keep it pressurized. But I never took on out of a dodge so can't tell you for a fact. @IBMobile would know a lot more on this subject 

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did you plug the new to you clutch in?

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the plug on top of the canister is the low pressure switch. the next thing I would do is take a OHM reading accross the terminals on the clutch coil. and or check for 12 volts at the plug going to the clutch. let us know what you get

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Posted (edited)
30 minutes ago, Ed ke6bnl said:

the plug on top of the canister is the low pressure switch. the next thing I would do is take a OHM reading accross the terminals on the clutch coil. and or check for 12 volts at the plug going to the clutch. let us know what you get

We're getting 4.83 to the low, and can't get anything out of the high side. As for the wire to the compressor, when I jump the low side I get nothing apparently....

Edited by TheGreatWhite

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Another test is to unplug the low-pressure sensor on the accumulator and use a paper clip and bridge the contacts. Typically that starts the compressor. It could be a bad high-pressure switch by the compressor and its open. Both of the pressure switches must be a closed switch for the compressor to start. The PCM controls the ground side of the power relay to the compressor. You can bridge 87 and 30 contacts in the PDC to see if the compressor engages. 

 

ac.jpg

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Posted (edited)
10 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Another test is to unplug the low-pressure sensor on the accumulator and use a paper clip and bridge the contacts. Typically that starts the compressor. It could be a bad high-pressure switch by the compressor and its open. Both of the pressure switches must be a closed switch for the compressor to start. The PCM controls the ground side of the power relay to the compressor. You can bridge 87 and 30 contacts in the PDC to see if the compressor engages. 

 

ac.jpg

Jeez thats a lot of info, we tried jumping it and it didnt kick on, I even tried jumping it and reading the amount of volts it was getting at the compressor but supposedly it was getting none. At the fuse box however, the fuse wasnt blown nor the relay and it was getting 13.5v so thats where its working fine. From there its anyones guess, both sensors were reading 13.5v earlier but now I cant get them to show any more than 4.83v if any at all..... Thats why I'm stumped.

Could very well be I'm not getting the prongs in there correctly and thats the reason its reading 4.83v, but earlier it was reading 13.5 up to the compressor and now nothing like I said.

Edited by TheGreatWhite

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1 minute ago, TheGreatWhite said:

From there its anyones guess, both sensors were reading 13.5v earlier but now I cant get them to show any more than 4.83v if any at all..... Thats why I'm stumped.

 

Short? As far as I know that circuit should be all 5 volt sensors. I've got to ask is there any error codes present? I'm not sure if the PCM records any A/C system errors.

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1 minute ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Short? As far as I know that circuit should be all 5 volt sensors. I've got to ask is there any error codes present? I'm not sure if the PCM records any A/C system errors.

No none at all. No shorts or nothing. I just want some A/C dangit :duh:

I guess my next question is, if I dont have enough freon in the system and I try to jump it, will it jump and activate the compressor or not?

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Let's start with the A/C relay. Pull it out and jump across the 87 and 30 pins. Double check the Fuse J (10 Amp fuse) in the PDC. If it starts we know that circuit is working. 

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1 hour ago, TheGreatWhite said:

No none at all. No shorts or nothing. I just want some A/C dangit :duh:

I guess my next question is, if I dont have enough freon in the system and I try to jump it, will it jump and activate the compressor or not?

By jumping compressor it will run no matter what even if you took half the plumbing off. All you're doing is engaging the clutch and since the motor is already turning the pulley, by forcing the clutch to pull in it will turn the compressor. I just don't know if any damage will be done running it like that for a period of time. 

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See if this helps.

.

 

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39 minutes ago, Dieselfuture said:

By jumping compressor it will run no matter what even if you took half the plumbing off. All you're doing is engaging the clutch and since the motor is already turning the pulley, by forcing the clutch to pull in it will turn the compressor. I just don't know if any damage will be done running it like that for a period of time. 

It will be OK, but don't leave run it can ice up the evaporate, but will help to figure out what to do next

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Well, MoparMan and I and a friend widdled the problem down to my compressor, so my "good deal" turns out to be a turd sadly..... Magnet seems to be shot and isnt reading steady OHMs and all of the sensors, relays, and fuses were getting the power to them.... So now to spend a bunch on a compressor :mad:

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Posted (edited)

My diagnosis would begin with:

 

1) Is there sufficient 35-40 psi for low pressure switch to close?

   A: yes, go to step 2

   B: no, add refrigerant

2) Is there power (voltage and amperage) at the compressor, pins are tight in plug, 

     A: yes, go to step 3

     B: No, go to step 4

3) Does compressor clutch coil have resistance of 3 to 5 ohms?

   A: yes, go to step 4

   B: no, replace clutch coil or compressor

4) Check power at pressure switches.

     A: yes, go to step 5

     B: no, repair wiring, relays, or fuses

5) Inspect low pressure switch plug for corrosion and loose / spread pins?

   A) yes: repair damaged plug, go to step 6

   B) no: go to step 6

6) Jump terminals on low pressure switch plug. Does compressor clutch engage?

   A: yes: go to step 7

   B: no: go to step 8

7) Does low pressure switch have continuity with at least 35 - 40 psi in system?

   A: yes: go to step 8

   B: no, replace low pressure switch with new

8) Inspect high pressure switch plug for corrosion and loose / spread pins.

   A: yes, repair damaged plug, go to step 9

   B: no, go to step 9

9) Jump terminals on high pressure switch plug. Does compressor clutch engage?

   A: yes: go to step 10

   B: no, go to step 1

10) Does high pressure switch have continuity with less than 300 - 400 psi in the system?

   A) yes, go to step 1

   B) no, replace high pressure switch with new

 

 

 

 

--- I was typing this out when I the post of finding the problem posted but I figured I'd still reply so it may help in the future.

 

Edited by 04Mach1
Typo in trouble tree number order
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3 minutes ago, 04Mach1 said:

My diagnosis would begin with:

 

1) Is there sufficient 35-40 psi for low pressure switch to close?

   A: yes, go to step 2

   B: no, add refrigerant

2) Is there power (voltage and amperage) at the compressor, pins are tight in plug, 

     A: yes, go to step 3

     B: No, go to step 4

3) Does compressor clutch coil have resistance of 3 to 5 ohms?

   A: yes, go to step 4

   B: no, replace clutch coil or compressor

3) Check power at pressure switches.

     A: yes, go to step 4

     B: no, repair wiring, relays, or fuses

4) Inspect low pressure switch plug for corrosion and loose / spread pins?

   A) yes: repair damaged plug, go to step 5

   B) no: go to step 5

5) Jump terminals on low pressure switch plug. Does compressor clutch engage?

   A: yes: go to step 6

   B: no: go to step 7

6) Does low pressure switch have continuity with at least 35 - 40 psi in system?

   A: yes: go to step 7

   B: no, replace low pressure switch with new

7) Inspect high pressure switch plug for corrosion and loose / spread pins.

   A: yes, repair damaged plug, go to step 8

   B: no, go to step 8

8) Jump terminals on high pressure switch plug. Does compressor clutch engage?

   A: yes: go to step 9

   B: no, go to step 1

9) Does high pressure switch have continuity with less than 300 - 400 psi in the system?

   A) yes, go to step 1

   B) no, replace high pressure switch with new

 

 

 

 

--- I was typing this out when I the post of finding the problem posted but I figured I'd still reply so it may help in the future.

 

Thanks anyways man. Everything has power and on the low side I had 120psi and high side I had 100psi and still wasnt engaging nor taking more

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Pressures a little high for an inoperable system. I suspect some non- condensable gases are in the system. A good  -30 inHg vacuum for 30 minutes should take care of that. Usaully in 80* - 90* sunny days I'd expect to see 90 - 100 psi on a fully charged non-operating system.

 

Also high and low side pressures should be indentical unless the compressor was recently cycled.

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1 minute ago, 04Mach1 said:

Pressures a little high for an inoperable system. I suspect some non- condensable gases are in the system. A good  -30 inHg vacuum for 30 minutes should take care of that. Usaully in 80* - 90* sunny days I'd expect to see 90 - 100 psi on a fully charged non-operating system.

 

Also high and low side pressures should be indentical unless the compressor was recently cycled.

I vacuumed it for an hour before I did charge it. 

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6 minutes ago, TheGreatWhite said:

I vacuumed it for an hour before I did charge it. 

best possible vacuum but heat is your friend, the more heat the better you will boil out the moisture, and it is also helpfull to evacuate and refitll to 1 or 2 psi repull a vacuum to help move the moisture out. Not as critical as a freezer that run in the minus 20s. 

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