Head gasket blown - Coolant leak

[Mopar1973Man]

Nope. Like either the engine has to drop a 1/4" or the cab has to rise a 1/4".

[Dieselfuture]

I didn't have this issue but I also have different brand studs. 

I would put a dent in body then if possible or drill a hole, idk  

Sometimes it takes few tries, it's like a chinese puzzle 

[trreed]

I sure didn’t have a whole 1/4” clearance issue when I did mine. It does look like the relief for the passenger wiper arm mechanism is right there though

 

[Mopar1973Man]

I'm starting to think of cutting a 2x4 just long enough to reach a floor jack and the lightly lift the body just enough to slip it in there. 

[trreed]

Would be your best bet if you’re not looking to massage the sheet metal 

[NIsaacs]

Maybe pull the tranny mount bolts and lift it some, that will tilt the engine forward, or pull the right motor mount bolt or both of them and drop the engine a bit.

[Mopar1973Man]

Got it... Jack and an old 2x6 did the trick. No dent even just lift that needed 1/4" and it fell right in.

Edited September 23, 2018 by Mopar1973Man

[Mopar1973Man]

Kind of upset. That gasket kit has every darn seal you could ask for. But... The two sealing washers for the return rail. 

 

I've got the return rail hooked back up, IAT sensor, MAP sensor, ECT sensor, Boost plug for my gauge, heater hose fitting. 

 

I've managed to put the first torque cycle at 40 ft/lbs and then the second one at 80 ft/lbs. Taking a bit of break that rough pulling and push a torque wrench for 26 studs hung over the radiator that long. Ugh. 

[trreed]

Just wait until you do the retorque!

[Marcus2000monster]

I’m not look Mg forward to this when I do my valve seals. Still undecided whether I’ll pull the head and get it machined for tophats or install oem replacements.

[AH64ID]

 

Be sure to use LOTS of lube, or they won’t torque properly. 

 

I also plugged the block heater in for 8 hours to get everything warm for the final torque. 

 

 

I’d guess the pistons looked like they did from the high timing. 

 

The injector marks also tell me high timing, looks like a common rail with a big early pilot. 

 

Glad to see it’s working it’s way back to running. 

Edited September 23, 2018 by AH64ID

[Dieselfuture]

2 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I've managed to put the first torque cycle at 40 ft/lbs and then the second one at 80 ft/lbs. Taking a bit of break that rough pulling and push a torque wrench for 26 studs hung over the radiator that long. Ugh. 

Ha ha, yeah I had fun myself when did mine, that's why I decided to modify some Ford seals to work vs pulling head again lol.

[Mopar1973Man]

17 hours ago, AH64ID said:

Be sure to use LOTS of lube, or they won’t torque properly.

 

Oh, I sure did. I also see why the lube is so important. Surprisingly as your torquing the head studs you really do see those washers turn like a bearing surface. I made sure to give them a good layer of lube top and bottom of each washer and then some lube on the threads. 

 

17 hours ago, AH64ID said:

I also plugged the block heater in for 8 hours to get everything warm for the final torque. 

Once I get coolant loaded back up sound like a good idea. 

 

17 hours ago, AH64ID said:

I’d guess the pistons looked like they did from the high timing. 

Just last year my VP44 died with a P0216 code stuck in full advancement. The truck managed to roll home under its own power at a mere 20-25 MPH knocking rather hard. That could be why you see that. As for my timing on my tune is nothing stronger than what the stock ECM can do now. I'm right at 20-21*... I've tried high timing but always see a rise in engine load start from there.

 

Funny that new injection pump has nearly 100k miles already. 

[Dieselfuture]

32 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Once I get coolant loaded back up sound like a good idea. 

I thought it was a bad idea to torque on hot engine 

[AH64ID]

2 hours ago, Dieselfuture said:

I thought it was a bad idea to torque on hot engine 

 

Hot re-torques are quite common, at least warm re-torques. 

[Dieselfuture]

14 minutes ago, AH64ID said:

 

Hot re-torques are quite common, at least warm re-torques. 

Great, I retorqued my head cold about 75 ambient. After few members here posted a video of guys retorquing arp on hot motor snapping a stud. 

 

[trreed]

Hot retorques are dangerous. There is a video floating around of a guy snapping an ARP 625 on a hot retorque. 

 

Cold (or ambient temp) retorques are good. And I think the block heater won’t go over 140*, which is the high side of cold. 

[Dieselfuture]

What's the point anyway of hot retorque, better more even pressure? I think going to 135ft/lb on 26 studs got to be tight enough  I have A1 H11 studs.

[AH64ID]

It all depends on how hot you're going. 

 

When I installed my studs I used the block heater, but when the builder put my motor back together he drove it for a bit. But it's not like the block is 200° when you re-torque it. It won't be super hot unless you're towing/racing and even then it takes time to dissemble it. 

 

They must have been doing something wrong to snap a 625! That's a strong stud. 

1 minute ago, Dieselfuture said:

What's the point anyway of hot retorque, better more even pressure? I think going to 135ft/lb on 26 studs got to be tight enough  I have A1 H11 studs.

 

It's supposed to keep the pressure on them during the stretching from heat, thou it's not much. 

 

The studs need certain torque on them to do their job. What is the book torque on A11s?

 

425's go to 125 and 625's go to 150. Even hot at 150 shouldn't be anywhere near what the 625 can handle. 

[Dieselfuture]

1 hour ago, AH64ID said:

The studs need certain torque on them to do their job. What is the book torque on A11s?

I have no idea, some say 135 others 150. I figured 135 was more then arp 425 at 125 so I went with 135. Gotta to be better then arp 425 and stock head bolts.