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Head gasket blown - Coolant leak


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  • Owner

Kind of upset. That gasket kit has every darn seal you could ask for. But... The two sealing washers for the return rail. :mad:

 

I've got the return rail hooked back up, IAT sensor, MAP sensor, ECT sensor, Boost plug for my gauge, heater hose fitting. 

 

I've managed to put the first torque cycle at 40 ft/lbs and then the second one at 80 ft/lbs. Taking a bit of break that rough pulling and push a torque wrench for 26 studs hung over the radiator that long. Ugh. :thud:

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Be sure to use LOTS of lube, or they won’t torque properly. 

 

I also plugged the block heater in for 8 hours to get everything warm for the final torque. 

 

 

I’d guess the pistons looked like they did from the high timing. 

 

The injector marks also tell me high timing, looks like a common rail with a big early pilot. 

 

Glad to see it’s working it’s way back to running. 

Edited by AH64ID
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2 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I've managed to put the first torque cycle at 40 ft/lbs and then the second one at 80 ft/lbs. Taking a bit of break that rough pulling and push a torque wrench for 26 studs hung over the radiator that long. Ugh:thud:

Ha ha, yeah I had fun myself when did mine, that's why I decided to modify some Ford seals to work vs pulling head again lol.

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17 hours ago, AH64ID said:

Be sure to use LOTS of lube, or they won’t torque properly.

 

Oh, I sure did. I also see why the lube is so important. Surprisingly as your torquing the head studs you really do see those washers turn like a bearing surface. I made sure to give them a good layer of lube top and bottom of each washer and then some lube on the threads. 

 

17 hours ago, AH64ID said:

I also plugged the block heater in for 8 hours to get everything warm for the final torque. 

Once I get coolant loaded back up sound like a good idea. 

 

17 hours ago, AH64ID said:

I’d guess the pistons looked like they did from the high timing. 

Just last year my VP44 died with a P0216 code stuck in full advancement. The truck managed to roll home under its own power at a mere 20-25 MPH knocking rather hard. That could be why you see that. As for my timing on my tune is nothing stronger than what the stock ECM can do now. I'm right at 20-21*... I've tried high timing but always see a rise in engine load start from there.

 

Funny that new injection pump has nearly 100k miles already. :whistle:

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It all depends on how hot you're going. 

 

When I installed my studs I used the block heater, but when the builder put my motor back together he drove it for a bit. But it's not like the block is 200° when you re-torque it. It won't be super hot unless you're towing/racing and even then it takes time to dissemble it. 

 

They must have been doing something wrong to snap a 625! That's a strong stud. 

1 minute ago, Dieselfuture said:

What's the point anyway of hot retorque, better more even pressure? I think going to 135ft/lb on 26 studs got to be tight enough :shifty: I have A1 H11 studs.

 

It's supposed to keep the pressure on them during the stretching from heat, thou it's not much. 

 

The studs need certain torque on them to do their job. What is the book torque on A11s?

 

425's go to 125 and 625's go to 150. Even hot at 150 shouldn't be anywhere near what the 625 can handle. 

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