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Just noticed my hitch had developed a crack where it bolts to frame towards back, about 1.5" long. So I wasn't going to take any changes welding it and got a new one coming. I've read some reviews about curt class 5 hitches and that's what I went with. Rockauto has them but with shipping it came up to way more then what u found on eBay. Here is a link

https://www.ebay.com/itm/CURT-Manufacturing-Receiver-Hitch-15318/332832960399?hash=item4d7e63ef8f:g:INQAAOSwWlFbuoKQ:sc:ShippingMethodStandard!60067!US!-1

This is for short bed curt15318, if you have long bed 15319 is what you want, but on reading more it seems that ether one can work but 318 has more holes for short bed, where 319 has 3 on each side. Anyway though someone may benefit from this. My hitch is in sad shape anyway, glad I found a crack now and not on the the road, plus it's an excuse to get a class 5. :thumbup2:

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My kid has trailer shop.  Every birthday he makes it a point to tell me to inspect it.  Especially on sides where bolted to frame looking for cracks.  Also stress using tow strap versus chain, to take out some of the g forces when using hitch as a tie off point, like when jerking something back on road or off the road.  

Curt was going to make him hitches under his name.  That plan ended quickly when he found out cost of lability insurance.  Best he can figure about 60% of cost is insurance.  

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If your hitch has a MOPAR tag or sticker there is a TSB about the same crack problem. I just got mine done this year for free by dodge

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On 11/3/2018 at 8:30 PM, Nekkedbob said:

If your hitch has a MOPAR tag or sticker there is a TSB about the same crack problem. I just got mine done this year for free by dodge

All stickers are long gone, it's been painted at least 3 times since I've owned it lol. It did well for the amount of time it's been on, I'm just glad I noticed cracks before something bad happened. 

 

Hitch just arrived yesterday ( made in USA ) came with hardware. all I can say is it's beefier than the one that's on the truck, and for $181 shipped to my door in a couple of days is not bad at all for class 5 hitch. I thought about making my own but for the money time and liability I decided just to buy one. 

 

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Have to add few things. The 2" hole where reciver goes in is thinner wall like 3/16 where old one was 1/4 not sure if that matters much. Another thing is mounting brackets were bent inwards, probably from shipping and dropping a heavy box. Took my bottle jack with some 4x4 and pushed it back where it belongs. And last thing is 15318 said it was for short bed but only 2 holes lined up, very far back holes instructions said not used on short bed, we'll I drilled them of course and put some bolts it, no brainer there, but 2nd holes looking from back of truck lined up with rivets for tire carriage mount, so I ground them flat and drilled holes there too. So idk if 15318 or 15319 is better for short bed. I made it work just fine, but there is some discrepancy there. 

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That looks like a nice hitch, Curt makes some good stuff. I have a gooseneck hitch and equalizer hitch from them. My oem cracked a few years ago so I welded it and then added some gussets at the location of the cracks. Then used a heavy U-bolt around the receiver and bolted it to my bumper, seems to be fine now.

 

 

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I honestly can't stand how most aftermarket hitches mount. That's a 16K/17K lb rated hitch that doesn't mount as good as the OEM one, at least on the 3rd gens. The fact that it only bolts to the bottom of the frame scares me. 

 

 

When I needed to replace my OEM hitch I looked at Curt, Titan/Reese, and whatever else was out there. I settle on the Titan/Reese soley for it's mounting. It used the OEM mounting location and additional locations to support the added ratings. It was a 2.5" receiver, but a little welding fixed that. 

 

Image result for Reese 45299

 

 

 

Edited by AH64ID
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11 hours ago, notlimah said:

Could you post a pic of how it sits looking directly back at the truck? It seems to put the receiver a little higher then stock. That sounds right?

 

Here ya go, also took pictures of where the cracks were.

 

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I guess I missed one more thing, original hitch had L shape on bottom edge for maybe side movement, this curt one is just straight no bends. I guess pulling a trailer probably be ok, but if yanking someone out of ditch sideways may flex it a little, but then again it's beefy enough I wouldn't think it would be a problem. I may just take it off some day and weld an edge along bottom side.

I know it's better then what I had, and it seems that there is always something to be tweaked no matter how good or new it is.

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