Replaced Stock Injectors With RV275 Injectors

[Tractorman]

I bought 6 new Bosch RV275 injectors one year ago (the price was right - $425 for the set) and finally installed them last Friday.  The original injectors operated for 303,000 miles and had never been removed.  They were still performing well – as in smooth idle, good power, and good fuel economy.  I didn’t want to push a good thing too far.  The job went smoothly with the help of this site.  All of the old injector tips were clean considering the miles and years on them. 

 

I did notice however, that there is a black coating of something  kind of oily / powdery (not sure what it is) in the intake area just below the grid heaters.   It is not present in the air horn and the hose from the intercooler – they are very clean.   I wonder if worn valve guides combined with lots of exhaust brake usage could be the cause.  Maybe someone who has had experience with this can shed some light.  The marks are from me using a scraper.

 

I am having a problem with a very small leak with #1 injector line at the injector.   When I removed the injector lines, I did it in groups of three, but I left all of the blue clamping points tight.  When I put everything back together, the connection at the #1 injector showed signs of leaking (wetness on the head around the fitting) on a 5 mile test run.

So, I loosened the #1 injector line at the injector and loosened the blue clamp nearest the injector and then tightened the injector line followed by tightening the blue clamp.  No evidence of a leak on a 5 mile test run.  However, after a 50 mile trip the head is slightly damp around the  injector connection.  I will try again, but this time I think I will loosen the clamps and the mounts and repeat the procedure to get the leak stopped.  If anyone has any tips, please speak up.

I like the performance of the RV275’s.  I immediately dialed the Smarty tune back a setting. 

OEM injectors:                  SW5 – Torque Management 5,  Timing 1, Duration 5

RV275 injectors :                SW3 – Torque Management 4, Timing 2, Duration 2. 

Smarty Settings:

Torque Management (1-6)  Each higher number incrementally reduces torque management at low engine rpm’s.  Example: TM-6 equal zero torque management and allows for high torque at low rpm’s.

Timing (1-4):  Each higher number incrementally advances ignition timing .  (#1 is stock, #2 is stock with after market injectors)            

Fuel Duration (1-5):  Each higher number incrementally increases fuel duration.  (#1 is stock)

The RV275 injectors definitely deliver more fuel.  So far, the tune I am using with these injectors is performing well, lots of torque on the low end easy to drive without smoke.   I am setting the tune as to how I drive with a manual 6 speed transmission and operating engine rpm’s between the 1500 to 2000 rpm range for almost all driving conditions.   

I will post more information as I get some miles on the new injectors and let you know which tune I end up with.

- John

[dripley]

Did you tighten the injector at the head before tightening the injector hold down? That caused me some haeart ache with leaks the first time I did mine.

 303k is a lot miles. I changed mine around 240k but never lost any mileage and the truck ran. I did put tuner at 100k so maybe a lost alittle performance but I could not tell with the added power

 I believe the blackness in the intake is from the EB.

 My oe injectors looked about like yours after 240k.

[Tractorman]

25 minutes ago, dripley said:

Did you tighten the injector at the head before tightening the injector hold down? That caused me some haeart ache with leaks the first time I did mine.

 

Yes, I did.  It was your suggestion in a different topic that prompted me to do that earlier today.  Thanks for that tip.  I am going to loosen more supports that hold the fuel line and try the method again.  It is just seeping now, but I need to get it stopped.

 

- John

[Mopar1973Man]

1 hour ago, Tractorman said:

I wonder if worn valve guides combined with lots of exhaust brake usage could be the cause.

 

Normal. Exhaust brakes places a valve in the exhaust stream so the pressure in the cylinders to blow back into the manifold. This oily / soot mess is normal for exhaust brake users. Mine is no different. 

[Tractorman]

38 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Normal. Exhaust brakes places a valve in the exhaust stream so the pressure in the cylinders to blow back into the manifold. This oily / soot mess is normal for exhaust brake users. Mine is no different.

 

That's good news - I was hoping for that kind of an explanation.  Thanks.

 

- John

[dripley]

1 hour ago, Tractorman said:

 

Yes, I did.  It was your suggestion in a different topic that prompted me to do that earlier today.  Thanks for that tip.  I am going to loosen more supports that hold the fuel line and try the method again.  It is just seeping now, but I need to get it stopped.

 

- John

That seep you are seeing just might go away in few days.

 On a different note, you should like those RV's. I really enjoyed mine even after the banks chip crapped out. They were just a good bump in power and some mpg gain. They were even good towing the 5th wheel unless you want to go 70 mph up a 6% grade. 50 was always good for me.

[Dieselfuture]

Definitely give it a day or two for the leak to stop before you over tighten the nuts. Few of mine were moist first few trips and then went away, some fuel left behind the nut that gets pushed out with heat. Especially if that's the one you used to bleed the system.

Definitely give it a day or two for the leak to stop before you over tighten the nuts. Few of mine were moist first few trips and then went away, some fuel left behind the nut that gets pushed out with heat. Especially if that's the one you used to bleed the system.

[Tractorman]

On ‎12‎/‎12‎/‎2018 at 5:51 PM, dripley said:

That seep you are seeing just might go away in few days.

 

On ‎12‎/‎12‎/‎2018 at 6:26 PM, Dieselfuture said:

Definitely give it a day or two for the leak to stop before you over tighten the nuts. Few of mine were moist first few trips and then went away, some fuel left behind the nut that gets pushed out with heat. Especially if that's the one you used to bleed the system.

 

I have waited as you have both suggested and now there is no sign of fuel seepage on the injector line that was troubling me.  I appreciate your tips.

 

On ‎12‎/‎12‎/‎2018 at 5:51 PM, dripley said:

On a different note, you should like those RV's. I really enjoyed mine even after the banks chip crapped out. They were just a good bump in power and some mpg gain. They were even good towing the 5th wheel unless you want to go 70 mph up a 6% grade. 50 was always good for me.

 

I am enjoying the RV275 injector performance.  I definitely had to de-tune the Smarty, but I have found a setting that gives lots of torque on the low RPM end and the turbo spools quickly.  I am sure that some of the improvement is just because the injectors are new.

 

I have put on about 1200 miles, none towing - only one tank checked for fuel mileage and that was 19.5 mpg, so I'm not complaining.

 

- John

Edited December 31, 2018 by Tractorman
Still learning to spell words

[pepsi71ocean]

On 12/12/2018 at 6:00 PM, Tractorman said:

OEM injectors:                  SW5 – Torque Management 5,  Timing 1, Duration 5

RV275 injectors :                SW3 – Torque Management 4, Timing 2, Duration 2. 

Smarty Settings:

Torque Management (1-6)  Each higher number incrementally reduces torque management at low engine rpm’s.  Example: TM-6 equal zero torque management and allows for high torque at low rpm’s.

Timing (1-4):  Each higher number incrementally advances ignition timing .  (#1 is stock, #2 is stock with after market injectors)            

Fuel Duration (1-5):  Each higher number incrementally increases fuel duration.  (#1 is stock)

The RV275 injectors definitely deliver more fuel.  So far, the tune I am using with these injectors is performing well, lots of torque on the low end easy to drive without smoke.   I am setting the tune as to how I drive with a manual 6 speed transmission and operating engine rpm’s between the 1500 to 2000 rpm range for almost all driving conditions.   

I will post more information as I get some miles on the new injectors and let you know which tune I end up with.

- John

 

I'm really curious why you have the timing on stock. Your timing should be on #3, and being you have your SW so low you could also run timing on 4. 

 

You may find you run out of fuel quickly with the duration that low, when towing or running heavy boost.

I find that what smarty posts on their website to be very anecdotal, when it comes to tuning of the smarty. Especially since the timing locks itself at about 18* of timing. The only change in timing is how much fueling you get before it pulls the timing back. Even so the relationship between timing and the SW number is inversely related.

Edited January 3, 2019 by pepsi71ocean

[Tractorman]

@pepsi71ocean, I appreciate your observations.  I will respond later when I have time to provide a thoughtful response.  I do want your input.

 

I continue to refer to the Smarty S03 thread in which you, @Me78569, @notlimah, and others provided a considerable amount of information regarding how the Smarty S03 operates.

 

- John

[Tractorman]

On ‎1‎/‎3‎/‎2019 at 2:54 AM, pepsi71ocean said:

I'm really curious why you have the timing on stock. Your timing should be on #3, and being you have your SW so low you could also run timing on 4. 

 

I appreciate getting your attention with the Smarty SO3 settings.   I agree that the information Smarty provides is anecdotal and it is also very limited.  I have spent some time experimenting with different software settings and the settings within the software settings (torque management, timing, and duration)

I gathered some good information from the Smarty S03 Can Bus Fueling thread.  Some things that I have learned from that thread or on my own:

               * Torque Management (TM – 1 through 6) higher numbers mean increase of torque in the area from off-idle until turbo spools.  

               * Timing (T – 1 through 4) higher numbers mean more advanced timing.

               * Duration (D – 1 through 5) higher numbers mean more fuel added.

Other things I have learned:

Regarding torque management, timing, and duration – “zero” is a default setting, but no one knows exactly where that fits in any given software setting (SW1 through SW9).

• In SW3 the full range of the TPS (0 -100%) is proportional to the actual position of the throttle through the full stroke of the throttle.  Any software setting higher than SW3 reaches 100 % TPS as early as one half stroke of the throttle.

• A lower number for a torque management setting means less smoke accelerating from a stop while in the turbo lag area.

If any of the above conclusions are incorrect, please let me know.

With my original stock injectors I settled with SW5 – TM (5 or 6), T-1, and D-5.  This combination seemed to work well empty or towing netting good power and good fuel economy.

Now that I have installed the RV275 injectors I will have to do some trial and error testing.  First, I set the Smarty back to stock so I could get a feel for the new injectors.  Then, I picked the settings that I posted (TM-4, T-1, D-2) as a place to start.

I picked a low timing number because I am being conservative, probably overly so.  Also, timing rattle annoys me, but I can be okay with more advanced timing as long as performance is improved without risk of engine damage.

I have since raised the TM to 6 for two reasons.  One – with a manual transmission I prefer to have lots of torque available at low rpm’s during upshifts since almost all boost is lost during the shift.  This is especially true getting the truck up to speed on a grade with a heavy load from a stop.  Two – again with a manual transmission, I like the reliable control of the throttle to match engine rpm’s to road speed during shifts.   So, for these two reasons I would rather use my right foot to control the smoke in the turbo lag region and to control throttle during shifts.

@pepsi71ocean, back to your point regarding timing.  How do I know how much is too much advanced timing?  From what I understand, an engine under a load (towing for example) generates more heat (and  pressure) in the cylinders and transfers less heat into the exhaust manifold at a more advanced timing, while an engine under the same load with a  less advanced timing generates less heat (and pressure) in the cylinders and transfers more heat into the exhaust manifold.  Please let me know if this is not true.

Early next week I will be taking the truck to Baker City and back (about 700 miles round trip).  The truck will be empty and am going to set the Smarty on SW1 with TM-6, T and D on default settings.  I know this will have much more advanced timing than I was using and I will report back the results.

Any input will be appreciated.  Thank you,

- John

Edited January 4, 2019 by Tractorman

[pepsi71ocean]

Well I wrote out a big response, the laptop crashed and I decided to post up my article. Its a little early but this is my rough and uncompleted Smarty article. Its unfinished and missing summaries and such, but I believe that in this state you would learn allot from it. But I think this would explain things much clearer then talking the dynamics. If you need something clarified feel free to ask away. @Tractorman @Mopar1973Man

 

 

 

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Tuning with a Smarty Programmer

Written by pepsi71ocean

 

OK guys, here is the scoop. It has long been know that Smarty S03's burn dirty. But the bigger thing here is the fact that understanding how the smarty works, and base settings to start with seem to be non existence. As a result the confusion created makes the Smarty one of the most confusing programmers on the market. However, I believe that for towing it is one of the more powerful ones when set up correctly.

I have spent the better part of two years testing different settings to see how they impact the smarty's ability to light my truck up. After 12,000 miles of testing, towing, and over 130 flashes on the ECM, this is the conclusion I have drawn.


Some things that I noticed.

 

1. Duration should be increased based on the size of the injectors. I have modified the tables below to what I *think* that they should be.

2. Timing can become too advanced. Keeping timing at 4 can be a serious issue the higher your SW#. I do believe that this is effected by Injector size.

3. Basically so far I have discovered that the the SW# and the revo software work independently of one another, meaning that SW9 is not the same as TM6, T4 and D5.

4. I should note that there are variables here, Turbo Size, transmission type, torque converter stall speed. All play a factor on your abilities to tune your truck here.

5. The Smarty S03 is only good for use really between 1,200 and 2,400rpm's, but this is the area your truck is using the most.

6. The S03 locks timing at 18.02*, but the amount of throttle required to lock the timing at that ratio changes based on the Timing level and the SW#

7. The higher the SW# the faster the Smarty ramps up the fueling and timing from idle up. However the larger the injectors the lower you need to have the Timing#. This is because the SW# eschews the throttle position read to the ECM.

8. The higher the Timing# the sooner the Smarty will lock the Timing at 18.02*, This is proportional to the SW#

9. Smoke control can also be controlled by mechanical means, ie raising injector pop pressure.

 

With that being said testing of different SW's and information is below.

 

 

Torque Management

This setting controls the low end response, when running low boost you need to turn this down.

If your having issues with cruise control, this will help calm down the surging issues.

The larger the Injector the lower the TM# should be. I consider 3 the lowest number, the closer to stock injectors the higher you can get on the TM#. Another option is those who have faster spooling turbo's.

 

With my built automatic TM2 was useless, it held 1^st gear until 2,400rpm's and the shifting was really aggressive.

 

Torque Management
# 0 - Default<Default for the SW#>
# 1 – Factory TM
# 2 – Light TM(you need to adjust TV cable for this)
# 3 – Good for larger injectors 100hp or greater
# 4 – OK for larger injectors 75-100hp, depending on transmission TV cable setting.
# 5 – OK for larger injectors 50-75hp, depending on transmission TV cable setting.
# 6 – Good for stock Injectors,
 

 

Duration

This setting controls the length of injection. I find it is useful to set accordingly. This setting controls passing power on the freeway. It is quite possible to run out of fuel when passing at higher speeds. For example on #2 I was good for passing at 35-40 mph, but the truck couldn't pass at highway speeds of 65-70mph. If you set this to high you WILL roll coal on the freeway when passing.

 

Injection duration
# 0 - Default<Default for the SW#>
# 1 – Stock duration
# 2 – Good for Injectors below 75 HP
# 3 – Good for 75-100 HP
# 4 – Good for 100 HP
# 5 – Good for larger then 100 HP

 

 

Timing

The Timing setting here make a huge difference. For trucks with larger injectors you should watch the SW# settings. On SW5 with 100hp injectors it is OK to run 4. But climb up there is required step back to prevent overtiring.
NOTE: Running larger injectors on #4 can cause to much timing, adjusting the SW# down is necessary.
Larger Injectors can run more timing on a lower SW#, but the higher it is the lower the number has to be. This is because the SW#9 setting runs timing much lower then the lower SW#'s

NOTE: Running the SW# on even result in stock timing, however changing the timing revo will revert the truck back to Smarty timing. Bottom Line Timing on 3 is the same weather your running an Even or an odd SW#.

NOTE: The smarty locks the timing regardless of the Timing # at 18.02*, however the SW# and the higher the Timing can change how fast it gets to that 18.02* and how much pedal is required. Note that to much timing can cause negative torque which I expand on more below when detecting for it.

 

The amount of throttle required to lock the timing lowers as you raise the the Timing#, this is fine when running a lower SW#, however when raised from SW5 to SW7 the Timing# will lock at lower throttle position. My truck on SW9 with Timing on 4 could barely spool the turbo below 2,000 rpms, however drop the SW to 5 and t4 it spools like a chain saw.

Injection Timing
# 0 – Default<Default for the SW#>
# 1 – Stock<Stock Timing>
# 2 - SW Timing for stock injectors
# 3 - SW Timing for aftermarket Injectors
# 4 - SW Timing for aggressive timing
 

Step back table for Timing with larger Injectors.

 

SW#	Acceptable	Advised	Not OK
SW5	T2- T3- T4	T3- T4
SW7	T2- T3- T4	T2- T3- T4
SW9	T2- T3	T3	T4

WARNING: When detecting how much timing is to much timing, you must observe the over advancement, and why it happens. The larger injectors inject fuel in shorter duration, and as such the added timing created between that and the fact that most larger injectors are also set to 300 bar, not 310 bar.

 

Detecting over advancement is best defined as a sluggish motor, it struggles to get up and running, especially at low rpm. No matter how hard you push the pedal she accelerates like a bear until you get into the 2,000 rpm range. If this is the case it's best to back off the Timing 1 notch.

 

SW# And Revo

 

Than higher the SW# then more aggressive the throttle response from idle up. Remember the gain in HP at the top is the same, however what you are using the smarty for is the low and mid range bump. The higher the SW# the lower the bump moves in RPM. So low that on SW#9 its about right off idle.

The aggressiveness also controls smoke control. Its been widely noted that smoke control is easier on the higher SW# because the timing ramp is very fast, but your movement on the throttle is less.

However for towing use the lower the SW# the better you have control over towing.

Remember that the Even SW# are fueling only, unless you switch the Timing# to something other then the default of the Catcher.

Choosing a SW# for towing varies by injector size, turbo spooling, and other variables, but its best to start looking around SW5.

 

Here is the SW Table

 

SW# 1 : Fuel Saver
SW# 2 : Only more fuel and Boost fooling
SW# 3 : Like # 2 + added timing
SW# 4 : “Soft” CaTCHER no added timing
SW# 5 : Like # 4 + added Timing
SW# 6 : Mild CaTCHER no added timing
SW# 7 : Like # 6 + added Timing
SW# 8 : CaTCHER no added timing
SW # 9 : CaTCHER with Timing

 

Smoke and Spool up Control

 

When you start using the CaTCHER software, its best to start planting your TM and Timing and Duration based on the tables I wrote up above, and make adjustments as necessary.

 

NOTE:If you want more low end response raise the TM# up one notch.

NOTE:If you want to add more passing power raise Duration up one notch.

 

Its best to find the limits of what you need. For example with Duration I found that 5 made smoke on passing, and 3 I ran out on the high way, so backing to 4 was ideal. The pyrometers will be effected by this, as the injection duration is in blocks, You can't make finite adjustments, however the extra fueling between 3 and 5 is enough with 100hp injectors to get passing power smoke.

 

Torque Management will work in a similar fashion, the low end rolling boost is proportional to the TM# and injector size. When I had TM set to 6 I couldn't even use cruise control and had smoke if I pushed the pedal to fast, lower the TM# and the issues went away. And even so the cruise control and smoke issues got less as I dropped the TM from 6 to 4, and found that 2 was unusable, but 3 worked best for me. I still believe that the smaller the injectors the higher you can raise the TM# without these effects.

Even so the two are still connected, you can still roll coal with TM#6 with duration on 2 or 3 with larger injectors. Because the TM will still control the spool up on the passing side of the turbo. This is important to note as this can confuse people when it comes to tuning for smoke control.

 

Smoke Control

 

All of this is designed to help with smoke control and tune-ability so that you can get a good running truck. However, if you find yourself in the a situation where you have low end smoke and your running out of passing power, you may want to check and get your injectors popped. I advise a base of at least 300 if not higher based on injector size. I set my 100's to 322 BAR and have no smoke even after making tuning adjustments.

 

 

Basics Behind This

 

Here is my "theory" The timing # of 4 is high enough that on SW#9 I see negative torque through the motor across the board. But back to T#3 the smarty still on SW#9 now accelerates better (no negative torque), However T2 it runs like a raped ape to me on SW#9.

SW7 I couldn't find a single usable combination that my truck liked.

SW5 I found that T2 it ran like crap, but Upped to T3 and it ran better, and T4 this truck audibly sounds different. Smoke is fairly clean, and the turbo lag while it exists off the line (if your standing still and lay on it), but towing the truck it does not show any visible negative torque on the motor.

This is why I'm thinking that the change of SW# number does have an effect on timing, a good example is how T4 is useless on SW9 but runs fine on SW5. I suspect that SW3 on T4 would run even better, perhaps totally smoke free. Something that I have to test, but my starter **** on me Wednesday, I'm in the processing of pulling it.

I will say this that Duration (with larger injectors) has a huge effect on passing power. I have ran out of fuel on lower duration especially when towing the tractor (for testing reasons). Duration on 2 or 3 @ 18psi of boost I run out of oomph, the truck feels like a semi truck climbing a hill. Even at 65 or 70 mph it is worse as the engine rpm rises up.

With larger injectors I think that the lower Duration doesn't supply enough fuel to the injectors under load to maintain timing.

 

Effects of Injector pop pressure on smoke control

 

 

-------------------------------------------------------------------

EDIT: I should add in that raising the SW# you can and have to dial back the revo settings, however they balance themselves out really well. I'm currently running SW% TM3 T4 and Duration on 4. With my injectors popped at 300 bar this truck ran great, at 320bar she has zero smoke, and spools like a chain saw. Smoke control is also proportional, the higher the TM# the more low end smoke you have, with the Duration to high you have passing power smoke. it sounds odd.

NOTE:If you find that this article helps with programming do let me know what you find so i can add it in. I only have an automatic that i can gather this information on.

 

Edited January 4, 2019 by pepsi71ocean

[pepsi71ocean]

@Tractorman I just realized I didn't answer your question about timing. I would move timing to 3 if you keep the SW low, you would most likely get more spool up with that. 

 

You may even benefit from SW5 TM5 Timing on 3 and a Duration on 3. I'm courios about your spool changes when you do that. 

[Tractorman]

@pepsi71ocean I drove the truck today on SW1 TM6, and with T and D  at default.  The truck runs strong and starts building boost quickly around 1300 rpm.  I am going to runt this setting on my trip to Baker City on Monday.  I will try a different setting for the return trip - maybe your recommended SW5 setting.

 

Thanks for the reply,

- John

[pepsi71ocean]

1 minute ago, Tractorman said:

@pepsi71ocean I drove the truck today on SW1 TM6, and with T and D  at default.  The truck runs strong and starts building boost quickly around 1300 rpm.  I am going to runt this setting on my trip to Baker City on Monday.  I will try a different setting for the return trip - maybe your recommended SW5 setting.

 

Thanks for the reply,

- John

Please do report back your findings. Im very courios to see how the settings effect your truck. My data was build around my truck with 100's. 

 

I'm courios too see also how close my article lines up with what you see, I noticed in re reading your previous post that your finding similar stuff as well.

[Ben]

You have a manual. Smarty and manual transmissions are like peas and carrots. 

 

Run the truck on 9. You should be able to wind shifts out to 3 grand if you want. I did all the time.

 

I monkeyed with the settings once REVO upgrade came out but always went back to straight 9. You are quite  under 350 hp with your combo. I mean WELL UNDER. I ran that for a while and loved it. Your EGT's will never be an issue with an hx35.

 

I am assuming/hoping you have a clutch, SB or Valair. That's kind of the weak link here. 

 

Since you have a manual you control it with your throttle foot. I drove with the side of my foot. You roll into the throttle not fat farmer foot stomp it. You should feel a "dead spot" to tickle through but maybe not anymore after software changes. 

 

Only in hot/humid conditions when I had 150's I would start playing with the levels as things had the potential to be obnoxious. 

 

If your clutch is not stock put it on Kung Fu 9. You're not going to hurt anything unless your clutch is stock. 

 

You will learn how to drive it. 

 

 

 

Edited January 5, 2019 by Ben

[pepsi71ocean]

16 minutes ago, Ben said:

You have a manual. Smarty and manual transmissions are like peas and carrots. 

 

Run the truck on 9. You should be able to wind shifts out to 3 grand if you want. I did all the time.

 

I monkeyed with the settings once REVO upgrade came out but always went back to straight 9. You are quite  under 350 hp with your combo. I mean WELL UNDER. I ran that for a while and loved it. Your EGT's will never be an issue with an hx35.

 

I am assuming/hoping you have a clutch, SB or Valair. That's kind of the weak link here. 

 

Since you have a manual you control it with your throttle foot. I drove with the side of my foot. You roll into the throttle not fat farmer foot stomp it. You should feel a "dead spot" to tickle through but maybe not anymore after software changes. 

 

Only in hot/humid conditions when I had 150's I would start playing with the levels as things had the potential to be obnoxious. 

 

If your clutch is not stock put it on Kung Fu 9. You're not going to hurt anything unless your clutch is stock. 

 

You will learn how to drive it. 

 

 

 

 

With your experience on the smarty what do you think of my article i have a few posts up? Just curious.

I have found raising the pop pressure eliminates the need to roll the foot into the throttle. My current set up i can punch it and go and have very little smoke.

 

 

Edited January 5, 2019 by pepsi71ocean

[Ben]

2 hours ago, pepsi71ocean said:

 

With your experience on the smarty what do you think of my article i have a few posts up? Just curious.

I have found raising the pop pressure eliminates the need to roll the foot into the throttle. My current set up i can punch it and go and have very little smoke.

 

 

 

@pepsi71ocean good on you man for that article. That is a lot of work and testing for a plug and play that almost everyone craps on now a days. 

 

My take on it from a manual transmission stand point. 

 

1. The Smarty is not dirty. The drivers right foot is dirty. It fuels heavy off idle..yes....very. I had/have a video somewhere of an off idle snap with it. I had 3 job offers from the mosquito commission after that. 

 

As I will say to ad naseum......learn how to drive it. Learn how to drive it. These comparison videos with smarty vs whatever taking off and the smarty belching....well no kidding when you fat foot the throttle from a stop. High fuel...low boost....may the smoke be with you.  Anyone been around long enough to remember that one?

 

The part about useful rpm range I never saw in my manuals. 

 

The Smarty S03 is only good for use really between 1,200 and 2,400rpm's, but this is the area your truck is using the most.

 

I frequently wound shifts out to 3 grand. And it was pulling the entire time. This was vs the EZ that fell flat on its face driving at 2300. The dyno sheet argues otherwise but my experience is different. 

 

The other post about towing 8000 pounds....the pulling out and passing in 5th with a skid steer and mini hoe on deck was with a mad ecm. And I mean passed with authority. 

 

The smoke control. 

 

All right foot and your noggin. 

 

I never flogged the throttle at under 10 lbs boost  and for the most part minimal smoke being spiritedly driven. You get a good fart thats about it. Smash the throttle in 4th going 30...your blocking lanes. 

 

Even my fueled little truck.....I didn't play until 10lbs. Things cleared up rather quick for the most part but that truck doesn't count. 

 

I would love to drive an auto truck for a while with smarty just to see the differences

 

Keep up the good fight @pepsi71ocean

 

 

 

 

 

Edited January 5, 2019 by Ben

[Tractorman]

8 hours ago, Ben said:

I am assuming/hoping you have a clutch, SB or Valair. That's kind of the weak link here.

 

I do have a stock clutch.  I just replaced the original clutch with another stock clutch 7,000 miles ago at 297,000 on the odometer - the last 50,000 miles with the Smarty installed.  I never had any issues with the clutch.  The clutch disc, pressure plate, and flywheel were still in good condition when I replaced them.

 

I just recently installed the RV275 injectors and I will continue to use the lower Smarty settings.  Like you, I roll into the throttle until boost reaches about 10 psi, then I'm good to go. 

 

I rarely drive over 2100 rpms and I like the high torque delivered at the lower rpm's.  Eventually, I will figure out a tune the stock clutch will handle and still give me good performance and good fuel economy.

 

I do appreciate your comments.

 

- John

[pepsi71ocean]

1 hour ago, Tractorman said:

 

I do have a stock clutch.  I just replaced the original clutch with another stock clutch 7,000 miles ago at 297,000 on the odometer - the last 50,000 miles with the Smarty installed.  I never had any issues with the clutch.  The clutch disc, pressure plate, and flywheel were still in good condition when I replaced them.

 

I just recently installed the RV275 injectors and I will continue to use the lower Smarty settings.  Like you, I roll into the throttle until boost reaches about 10 psi, then I'm good to go. 

 

I rarely drive over 2100 rpms and I like the high torque delivered at the lower rpm's.  Eventually, I will figure out a tune the stock clutch will handle and still give me good performance and good fuel economy.

 

I do appreciate your comments.

 

- John

 

This is exactly why I have the smarty still. My truck will move a house down the road at 1,500 under load. And I'm not worried about timing as I I watch my EGT's and boost under load and she spools like a chain saw. Running up and down hills she holds in O/D much longer then I suppose i should.

 

Rolling into the throttle I haven't had a need to do that since i raised the pop pressure on my injectors, but even before I lowered the TM# and raised the SW# to compensate for the change and she does good.

Edited January 6, 2019 by pepsi71ocean