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W-T ground mod

Marcus2000monster
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  • 1 month later...
psytechguy

psytechguy

Posted
Posted

I've been reading this thread with great interest the past day or so. I'm about to replace and upgrade my battery cables next week, and this seemed like a good time to do the WT Mod.

 

A couple of points I'm unclear on:

 

1. Cleaning up the grounds on the passenger side running up to the computer modules on the firewall, and...

 

2. Size of the negative crossover cable added between the batteries. Several different sizes have been mentioned in different posts, i.e. 4AWG, 4/0, and 2/0. What's optimum? Go as big as I can? My new positive crossover cable will be 2/0.

 

thanks!

Mike

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LorenS

LorenS

Posted
Posted
On 10/16/2019 at 11:16 AM, psytechguy said:

2. Size of the negative crossover cable added between the batteries. Several different sizes have been mentioned in different posts, i.e. 4AWG, 4/0, and 2/0. What's optimum? Go as big as I can? My new positive crossover cable will be 2/0.

I can think of no persuasive reason to use a 4/0 or even 2/0 ground "crossover cable" to the other battery when you already have 1/0 grounds to the engine block from each battery.  The 4-gauge crossover wire will eliminate the voltage drops at each of those connections at the block, better ensuring you have the same voltage at each battery.  Sizing it the same as your alternator (4 gauge) wire seems a good rule of thumb.

 

The largest current draw by far is the starter, which grounds through the block - that is why each battery gets a large ground connected to it.  If you were to attempt grounding the engine to only one battery directly, then a large (1/0, for example) crossover wire to the other battery would certainly be recommended/required.  In that case the ground wire from the engine to the one battery should (probably) be upgraded to 2/0.

 

That said, if you want to spend the time and money to run 3" pipe to your ice maker, yes, it will reduce losses.  Mopar1973Man's recommendation to put some engine oil on the cable connections to keep them in great shape will net far greater returns.

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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I tend to agree. There is no reason for over kill cable sizes. The stock size is going to be just fine too. If your worried about it then consider doing the the voltage drop test on the main cables and see if the cable is dropping more than 0.2 volts over the run. If it is I would replace the entire cable and maybe increase one gauge size.

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  • 2 months later...
01cummins4ever

01cummins4ever

Posted
Posted

a little late to this party but while I had my truck in the garage taking care of some general maintenance , I tackled the ground mod while I was at it. I did it pretty much text book according to @W-T and @IBMobile instructions with good results, 

 

here is before, not to bad but room for improvement.

 

C1FFD384-BD2A-4BF2-BA09-60C5A6A939DB.jpeg

And after

DA5DC05E-09C7-4BAD-B8B6-D9342B0259C3.jpeg

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01cummins4ever

01cummins4ever

Posted
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Ya, I’m glad I did this as I was testing my batteries because of Slow hard start when temps dropped bellow 10 degree F. I found the drivers side battery had a dead cell, probably been running on 1 battery for the last month or so, and as I was checking drivers battery ground to engine cable, I was going to soldier a new lug on it until I opened it up and saw this :wow:

51B7F4B1-9C49-4FBE-B5A3-2211635561FC.jpeg

I did new cables and terminals a few years ago, all except for this one, time got away from me and never finished it until now, so I got this one buttoned up with new cable and lugs and a new military terminal like the rest of them 

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  • 1 month later...
Allenjar11

Allenjar11

Posted
Posted

New to the site and found the info to be amazing.. will be doing this upgrade soon now that I know it’s an issue.. but I’m having a major problem with melting the stud off the back of the Alternator.. would this upgrade possibly fix that problem or is it a pcm issue? Please help and thanks in advance

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Mopar1973Man

Mopar1973Man

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44 minutes ago, Allenjar11 said:

but I’m having a major problem with melting the stud off the back of the Alternator.

 

Serious issue. There should be a 140A fuse protecting the alternator in the PDC.

  • Is the alternator fuse in place?
  • Has there been any electrical modified? 
  • Large electrical loads added like winch or high wattage lighting?

Even with the W-T ground mod I used a 150A circuit breaker on the charge lead. It's mounted behind the passenger battery tray facing the firewall. 

 

Side notes. I just had a alternator rebuilt and talking to the rebuilder and he told me alternator diodes or alternator failure is typically other electric issue like bad grounds or bad connection that backfeeds the electrical system causing the damage. It is not common for alternator failure and it should be investigated deeper.  

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Allenjar11

Allenjar11

Posted
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Serious issue. There should be a 140A fuse protecting the alternator in the PDC.

  • Is the alternator fuse in place?
  • Has there been any electrical modified? 
  • Large electrical loads added like winch or high wattage lighting?

Even with the W-T ground mod I used a 150A circuit breaker on the charge lead. It's mounted behind the passenger battery tray facing the firewall. 

 

Side notes. I just had a alternator rebuilt and talking to the rebuilder and he told me alternator diodes or alternator failure is typically other electric issue like bad grounds or bad connection that backfeeds the electrical system causing the damage. It is not common for alternator failure and it should be investigated deeper.  

The 140 amp fuse is there and it’s good.. I’m getting 14.5 volts at the batteries and the stud off the new alternator I installed last night.. nothing crazy as far as electrical modifications go, it does have an aftermarket stereo and speakers w/subwoofer and amp.  Those connections and grounds I’ve checked already and they are fine.. that’s why I was wondering if it was maybe a issue elsewhere.. I disconnected the grid heaters and turned off everything that would pull voltage and the alternator is still putting our 14.5 volts at idle.. shouldn’t the pcm engage and disengage the alternator after batteries see a certain voltage? 

Edited by Allenjar11
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Allenjar11

Allenjar11

Posted
Posted (edited)

So it’s sounding like a ground issue then I’m assuming? I was having intermittent cruise control issues as well so that’s the main reason for doing this mod/upgrade as far as that’s concerned would that possibly fix any ground issues I may or not be having? Just need a base to start with more or less. I know the voltage regulator is in the pcm so that’s why I was questioning it as a possible problem

Edited by Allenjar11
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