Smashed vacuum line and a mystery hose.

[SailingSanta]

Long story short 

I had to replace the engine in my otherwise reliable old truck at 298000.  That part with the exception of busted knuckles and not having done it before, went off mostly okay though I’m still not completely finished, due to the challenges described below.  

While wrestling the new engine into place at the bell housing and torque converter I inadvertently squashed a white vacuum line.  I managed to get it removed from between the two sections.  Now when trying to trace it back I find there is a second (unsquished) white line.  What are these and where are they supposed to be terminated?  

Also, when the exhaust came out I now have a black rubber hose with a small metal curved pipe and bracket.  (See pic). Where did THIS one appear from?

 

Any and all assistance is appreciated and I thank you in advance.  Please don’t cut my throat, I’ve never tackled anything like this before. 

 

[dripley]

I would hazard a guess at the white being a vacuum line from the transfer case to the front axle if it has a CAD on it. Not sure on a 97 though. I don't know how far back they go.

 The other a trans line to a cooler maybe? Mines a stick and I don't really know.

Edited June 17, 2019 by JAG1

[BBHD]

I believe @dripley is right. It looks like the vacuum supply to the transfer case.  

Edited June 17, 2019 by JAG1

[Mopar1973Man]

The larger line is a vent for the transfer case.

[SailingSanta]

Transfer vent.  Anything attached to the fitting or just bare metal?  

 

Thank you for the diagram. 

 

Armed with this info, since the intake is still off, I can get my hands in to replace the vacuum line.  It’s brittle - except for the section I squashed.  That turned into mush.  I’m using silicone vacuum hose. Significantly more durable. 

 

 

[Mopar1973Man]

If it was me I would get a some 1/8 air brake line and use that. Last much long and designed for oil and fuel contact. 

 

[dripley]

It is easy to work with and holds up well. Though my exhaust brake uses silicone hose, but it has strap to something or it flops all around. 

 

 

Mike has made mention of the air brake line many times and its availability at NAPA. I went to NAPA out my way 2 or 3 times and asked for it only to be looked at with a blank stare. A few weeks ago I went to a NAPA for some vacuum hose. Did not see what I wanted so I went to the counter and asked for vacuum hose. The clerk took me back to where it was and the had a rack full of "vacuum hose". Half of it was air brake line. The tubing was labeled air brake line but they called it vacuum tubing even though they did have "rubber" tubing with it.

Edited June 18, 2019 by dripley

[dave110]

Napa is not what it used to be. The local one in town is an original company store. The head guys from Georgia I believe came in and tore it inside out taking out what they thought didn't sell and putting in what they thought would. I was in afterwards and asked Earl what happened to the HELP rack and the shelf that had all the air chucks and fittings on it. He said that all went away shaking his head, "but look down below, we have a nice selection of Matchbox cars and air fresheners now". Then he took me in the back and let me pick a tire gauge out of the box they threw all the stuff into. What a shame. I rarely use NAPA anymore.

[SailingSanta]

I’ve gone to this supplier for my new hose and check valves.  I really didn’t care about the visual aspect but more so with the overall performance. 

 

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/silicone-boost_vacuum-hose/

Also I have a vacuum/boost billet plenum due in a few days.  This vacuum install is NOT going to be like the factory slapdash install. 

Edited June 18, 2019 by SailingSanta
Addendum

[dripley]

15 minutes ago, SailingSanta said:

I’ve gone to this supplier for my new hose and check valves.  I really didn’t care about the visual aspect but more so with the overall performance. 

 

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/silicone-boost_vacuum-hose/

Also I have a vacuum/boost billet plenum due in a few days.  This vacuum install is NOT going to be like the factory slapdash install. 

Thats where I got my boost boots from. Holding up just fine 4 years later. Reasonably priced I might add.

[kzimmer]

1 hour ago, dave110 said:

Napa is not what it used to be. The local one in town is an original company store. The head guys from Georgia I believe came in and tore it inside out taking out what they thought didn't sell and putting in what they thought would. I was in afterwards and asked Earl what happened to the HELP rack and the shelf that had all the air chucks and fittings on it. He said that all went away shaking his head, "but look down below, we have a nice selection of Matchbox cars and air fresheners now". Then he took me in the back and let me pick a tire gauge out of the box they threw all the stuff into. What a shame. I rarely use NAPA anymore.

 

I like this rant. I think the people of Napa, or moreso their bean counters, should see this. 

[SailingSanta]

Thanks to everyone here.  The engine replacement project is drawing to a close.  I’m hoping to make some noise tomorrow.  Still working on the exhaust pipes.  Long tube Headers and 3” pipes all the way back.  Yes, noise. 

 

[SilverMoose]

3 hours ago, SailingSanta said:

Thanks to everyone here.  The engine replacement project is drawing to a close.  I’m hoping to make some noise tomorrow.  Still working on the exhaust pipes.  Long tube Headers and 3” pipes all the way back.  Yes, noise. 

 

If you ever get down to Vero Beach, I would like to hear that "noise".  Hope it fires right up.

 

L8tr

D

[SailingSanta]

So the engine is still at #1 TDC and the rotor is pointing at the number one cylinder’s head bolt. 

Here’s my confusion.  

I’m running an electronic fuel injection with the electronic distributor.   Which means the number one wire is now, on the distributor cap, pointing to the six hole.  Coincidentally, the plug wires and cap orientation are in the exact position they were on the old distributor. 

There’s no spinning the distributor housing to have the number one wire align with the number one cylinder at TDC because the distributor housing has “ears” that prevent turning that far.  It will bind on the back of the intake manifold. 

So what do I do from here?   I don’t see how I’ll be able to sync the fuel to TDC.   One person tells me I should pull the distributor *and gear* to move and align the rotor so it points at six. 

I’m so close but don’t want to destroy anything by turning the key while having the number one wire where it is.  

I’m very confused.  The shop manual I have shows the rotor to number one as well but I wonder if there ever was anything like an addendum to re-aim the rotor somewhere else for sync.  

 

...or do I just have the distributor housing 180° backwards?  Pull the stem and flip it, keeping #1 TDC?

Help me Obi Wan...

Dave Rhodes 
Merritt Island, FL

Edited June 20, 2019 by SailingSanta

[SailingSanta]

Picture 1:  top left shows #1 TDC

 

Picture 2:  verified TDC

 

Picture 3:  #1 plug wire removed for clarity.  Intake is red. 

 

Picture 4:  This shows the pickup plate.  Please notice - no timing mark or notch, etc. 

 

Picture 5:  This shows the rotor pointing to #1 cylinder.  Note pickup vane under the rotor. 

 

Picture 6:  Another view of the vane but note the cutout in the housing for the sensor. 

 

Now with all all this info and #1 wire being on the left side [like most vehicles have it], how is #1 going to get fuel before the TDC.  It’s going to be nowhere close to the #1 wire. 

 

So what’s my answer here?  Pull the distributor and use some guesswork to place the rotor close to the #1 wire?  I could pull the distributor out and rotate the housing (cap) so it kinda lines up, but then any self respecting maintenance person who looks and sees the #1 wire in the wrong location...

 

My brain hurts. 

 

I’m close to getting out my AR-10 and putting a vent in my crate engine. 

 

[Royal Squire]

Unless I misunderstand your dilemma, you can place #1 plug wire in any position on the distributor cap as long as the other wires are in the correct firing order and you take into account the direction of distributor rotation 

[dave110]

   It's been a while but from what I remember you are exactly right. You can turn the cap wherever but the wire the rotor points to on TDC needs to be the first one in the firing order.

[SailingSanta]

Update:

I pulled the distributor this morning and fiddled my way into lifting and turning the gear so the distribution rotor now points the right way.  Distributor - foreign to all things diesel.  Anyway, All pleased with myself, it was time for installation of the battery to see if I was successful or I would witness flames and fluids everywhere. 

With trembling hands, I put the key into the ignition,.. and turned...   nuthin. 

The battery had gone to the great beyond.  Not even enough juice to make the buzzer work.  Now proud owner of a very friggin expensive battery.   Repeating this morning’s stomach butterflies I turned the key while the coil was disconnected.  I’ve got oil pressure.  Go team me.  Attached the coil wire and tried again.  It huffed once... and then again about every three/four turns.  It got surface of the sun hot so I’ve knocked off for the day.  Tomorrow I wanna try to see if advancing or regarding does anything.  I may even give it a half shot of premium right in the intake.  Any and all suggestions are greatly appreciated. 

 

Did start art working on the vacuum plenum.   Factory way is ****.  The gauge hasn’t gotten here yet but will be installed on the left side of the rail.  

 

 

 

[dave110]

Nice vac. manifold 

Edited June 23, 2019 by dave110

[SailingSanta]

Thank you. 

Obviously I’ll be cleaning up the routing of the hoses later.  My primary concern - the headers fit, although I’m dubious about one spot of the titanium wrap rubbing.  Exhaust and muffler all in and clamped.  Now I’ve got to find somewhere to hook up to a “good” (definition: expensive as hell) engine monitor to sync my fuel.  I’ve got it running but the idle is still suspect.  I’ve got to keep tickling the throttle so it doesn’t konk out.  No pressure.  I leave for a 1300 mile road trip in three days, towing a trailer.  

I’m telling you though, with the new, taller cammed engine and 3” long tube headers and pipes all the way back, she’s a throaty little girl.

Edited June 23, 2019 by SailingSanta
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