Back in October I went ahead and upgraded to the 4th gen tie rods and while I was at it I replaced the track bar, and everything was all peachy until I hit a bump and it dropped out the socket on the driver side and I could never get it to stay, so I returned it and got a Moog bar and I'm still having problems, in fact, it's worse with bump-steer and it's like driving a wet noodle down the road. If torqued them to spec, loctited them, and even stripped the nut on the frame side I tightened it so much, and here I still sit. If anyone has a solution, it would be much appreciated! Thanks!

Is the tapered hole wallowed out? 

Ditch that bar and upgrade to the newer style. I have used BD on both my 98's with great results. Used Thuren on a 3rd gen and Carli on my 4th gen and both of those bars were good too but they do not allow for adjustment on the truck. Im a stickler for the axle being centered so the BD being adjustable on the truck makes it much much easier.

Still after 405k miles still using the factory style track bar. I would look at the tapered hole for damage. Typically get about 150k miles from a track bar. With your 3 inch lift could be causing your issues pulling on the track bar excessively. 

On 12/30/2019 at 8:21 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

Still after 405k miles still using the factory style track bar. I would look at the tapered hole for damage. Typically get about 150k miles from a track bar. With your 3 inch lift could be causing your issues pulling on the track bar excessively. 

@Mopar1973Man is this the NAPA unit you use?  The photo seems to be EXACTLY the same as the AC Delco Professional unit at RockAuto.  Based on your recommendation, it's what I'm going to buy if I have the right one.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NCZ2724229?partTypeName=Track+Bar+-+Front+Susp&keywordInput=track+bar

 

NCP2724229 is the part number.

On 12/29/2019 at 7:20 PM, dripley said:

Is the tapered hole wallowed out? 

Sorry guys I didnt see you responded! Email notifications must have been being weird...Anyways! I'm not sure, didn't check really cause for whatever reason I didn't think it was possible....

 

On 12/30/2019 at 8:21 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

Still after 405k miles still using the factory style track bar. I would look at the tapered hole for damage. Typically get about 150k miles from a track bar. With your 3 inch lift could be causing your issues pulling on the track bar excessively. 

This bar is on my 01 without the leveling kit, probably should have specified... My bad.....

 

 

UPDATE: So there's no audio popping sound like the track bar is loose anymore (my truck is strange), but I definitely feel a small pop in the steering wheel when turning either way, could that be a steering box? Steering seems a little loose here lately.... Or something else I've seen, is there's this company that makes a bushing for your steering shaft that they claim the factory one wears down easy and lets the spring move around to much, of which mine does, but still doesn't explain the popping feeling from the steering wheel.

Just get someone to turn the wheels back and forth while you lay up under the and see whats moving. My steering had gotten some play in it and while doing this I noticed the joint at the pitman was loose. The nut was backing off and the joint was flopping back and forth causing 90% of my play. Think I might have damaged mine from that. Need dedent week end to check it out some more.

Double check both ends. I've seen track bars fail at the passenger side rubber bushing. 

4 hours ago, dripley said:

Just get someone to turn the wheels back and forth while you lay up under the and see whats moving. My steering had gotten some play in it and while doing this I noticed the joint at the pitman was loose. The nut was backing off and the joint was flopping back and forth causing 90% of my play. Think I might have damaged mine from that. Need dedent week end to check it out some more.

I've been thinking about doing that, I don't know why but I was thinking I'd hear a pop if that was the case but I will check!

 

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Double check both ends. I've seen track bars fail at the passenger side rubber bushing. 

See and for awhile the bushing end was moving as well, and I definitely had it torqued to spec, with the bigger bolt Dodge upgraded to, and yet it was still moving ever so much.

Bump steer is because the drag link angle doesn't match after doing 4th gen steering. Alitttbump steer is liveabl but is intensified with a sloppy track bar. 

 

Rubbtbushing I consider shot even if they dont show it when tierod end is visually sloppy. 

 

I'm running 7/8" heims on my truck and have been building 7/8" heim track bars for 3rd gens because they pretty much bolt on the 3rd gens.

 

On 2nd gens its alot of work or requires a lift and bolt on bracket at frame end the lift is needed to be able to adjust drag link and track close to parallel with a dropped pitman arm.

 

I could see bad others wiping out track bar joints in one good jolt. Even a knew arm. I do not know what I'd do upgrade if fabrication is not an option to cut junk of the frame and fabricate knew mounts.

 

Someone at Carlisle or maybe dodge offroad may have the right pitman and track bar upgraded mounting bracket combination to keep track bar and drag link parrel. 

 

14 minutes ago, Evan said:

Bump steer is because the drag link angle doesn't match after doing 4th gen steering. Alitttbump steer is liveabl but is intensified with a sloppy track bar. 

 

Rubbtbushing I consider shot even if they dont show it when tierod end is visually sloppy. 

 

I'm running 7/8" heims on my truck and have been building 7/8" heim track bars for 3rd gens because they pretty much bolt on the 3rd gens.

 

On 2nd gens its alot of work or requires a lift and bolt on bracket at frame end the lift is needed to be able to adjust drag link and track close to parallel with a dropped pitman arm.

 

I could see bad others wiping out track bar joints in one good jolt. Even a knew arm. I do not know what I'd do upgrade if fabrication is not an option to cut junk of the frame and fabricate knew mounts.

 

Someone at Carlisle or maybe dodge offroad may have the right pitman and track bar upgraded mounting bracket combination to keep track bar and drag link parrel. 

 

Well now that you say something about them being parallel, when we installed the new bar, in the shortness of time we had instead of doing it the right way we decided to turn the wheel to separate the frame from the axle so we could slip the bar in. Not my idea, I would have rather had done it right, but my 8 month old sister was awake from her 2nd nap of the day and no one was watching her except my dad and I.

 

So @Mopar1973Man @dripley, if that changes something let me know, don't know if that would cause it all to be unparallel or what, and if all thats needed is an alignment, that would be great! Still doesnt explainn the popping feeling in the steering wheel, that will be next.....

You can't adjust it parrel.  Nor can a alignment.  It is what it is. I think the drag is actually at a slightly steeper angle then the track bar with the 4th gen steering.  

Slightly slightly I do not have 4th gen steering so I cant verify. 

 

Drag link mounts under knuckle on 2nd gen.

On 4th gen tie rod mounts to knuckle and drag link mounts to tie rod. This also shorts drag link angle by that couple inches.

Only talking slight differences but noticably in wheel specially with sloppy track bar.

 

You probably notice steering wheel pull hitting speed bumps? That's because the slight amount out of parallel causes them to cycle in different arc through suspension travel.  You have the track bar basically fighting the drag link track bar will win the battle and move the steering out of it's way making it bump steer.

21 minutes ago, Evan said:

You can't adjust it parrel.  Nor can a alignment.  It is what it is. I think the drag is actually at a slightly steeper angle then the track bar with the 4th gen steering.  

Slightly slightly I do not have 4th gen steering so I cant verify. 

 

Drag link mounts under knuckle on 2nd gen.

On 4th gen tie rod mounts to knuckle and drag link mounts to tie rod. This also shorts drag link angle by that couple inches.

Only talking slight differences but noticably in wheel specially with sloppy track bar.

 

You probably notice steering wheel pull hitting speed bumps? That's because the slight amount out of parallel causes them to cycle in different arc through suspension travel.  You have the track bar basically fighting the drag link track bar will win the battle and move the steering out of it's way making it bump steer.

I don't think it's the tie rods though because it was all tight and fantastic until I hit a bump and this whole thing started.... Shitty oriellys suspension parts.....

 

It's not super bad bump steer, if it does anything it'll kinda jerk it out of my hands quick and not very far like nothing's keeping it from doing it like a bad damper, granted cause mines off my dad's 03 that's been sitting for 5ish years.

2 hours ago, Evan said:

On 2nd gens its alot of work or requires a lift and bolt on bracket at frame end the lift is needed to be able to adjust drag link and track close to parallel with a dropped pitman arm.

I believe they sell kids to retrofit an adjustable track bar to our second to our 2nd gens.

I made my own bracket on the frame and modified my track bar tha to be adjustable with poly bushing in each end. Might have cost me fifty bucks to do it, that was when I had way more time than money, now I don't have neither

 

 these pictures are before I upgraded to 4th gen steering, my track bar is still doing fine 

Here's mine 

Edited January 10, 20205 yr by Evan

Just now, Evan said:

Here's mine 

In a perfect world I'd get/ make a bracket for a 3rd gen but I just bought this bar and would love if it just worked, which I believe it is finally since there's no audible popping, just through the steering wheel like I mentioned earlier, and it's only when I first start to drive, and then it goes away....

The 2nd gen bars going to be hit and miss.  I dont think the 3rd gens much better we eat them on our 2007.

 

I'd make sure the drag link and track bar are very close to parrel mounting point to mounting point. The curve in bar does not matter.

 

If they are I'd go from there. Even possibly adjusting castor angle so it's got more positive. 

 

Popping leads me to believe something is loose. Most the time popping gets worse or when it goes away it's now so loose the popping stops. 

2 minutes ago, Evan said:

The 2nd gen bars going to be hit and miss.  I dont think the 3rd gens much better we eat them on our 2007.

 

I'd make sure the drag link and track bar are very close to parrel mounting point to mounting point. The curve in bar does not matter.

 

If they are I'd go from there. Even possibly adjusting castor angle so it's got more positive. 

 

Popping leads me to believe something is loose. Most the time popping gets worse or when it goes away it's now so loose the popping stops. 

I'll start there here in a couple days after it dries up! Been raining day today and supposed snow tomorrow. Oh boy!