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One of of the symptoms my VP showed before failing was hard starting. It is very similar to the hard starting from an air leak the @Me78569 mentions. Scan the truck for trouble codes. 

 

It is normal for the lift pump to run for 20 seconds if you have bumped the starter with no engine start. At key on it should just bunp the lift pump for less than a second. This is controlled thru the ECM and not the VP.

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Oh yes. This one was my second plus a couple other times removing for other reasons. It is not difficult. Did this last one in a Motel parking lot. I spent about $1300 on the pump, shipping, and a couple tools I did not have with me. Not to mention motel and rental car. Close to a couple grand. A shop would have added about another $500.

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Mike is pretty covered up right now but I cannot speak for him either.

 

I will say that there is wealth of knowledge here with the members on the VP that we readily share all the time. Post up your questions, you might be surprised. This is not difficult to do if you can turn a wrench. It is all bolt off, bolt on. The pump is already set up. Just bolt it on bleed the fuel sytem and drive.

 

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You should bump the starter and wait for fuel pressure to go up to around 9 psi and then crank to see if she starts right away. I say this because it could only be the fuel return Tee gaskets on the back of the head. When they start going bad they let in air so when you shut down you lose prime because fuel will drain back to the tank. This causes hard starts and the trick of bringing up the fuel pressure before cranking isn't always a perfect way to tell if that is the problem. IOW, just don't want to to jump into a new VP without knowing for sure. My truck got a new VP last year and hard starts just showed up for me. I'm pretty sure it's the return Tee.

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48 minutes ago, Reddemonvp44 said:

@JAG1 your talking about the banjo bolt that’s spring loaded with a little ball bearing correct, yea I already changed that, didn’t fix. I’m almost certain it’s the injection.

Are you talking about the return valve on the VP with the return line connected to it? It fits into the upper left hole in the VP.  On the new pump below the supply has a black pug and the return has the white plug.20191127_172818.jpg.0592ecb84aaf459107f5e2bad856ff6a.jpg

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I'm talking about the return fuel 'T' on the back end of the engine head. Its back under the windshield cowell. Have to lay on the engine to get to it. When the rubber grommets/ seals go bad it lets air into the system when parked nose uphill and you lose prime affording some hard starts. It is a 'T' in order to take return fuel from two places, the injectors and from the VP44 Overflow valve you were referring to above.

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8 hours ago, JAG1 said:

I'm talking about the return fuel 'T' on the back end of the engine head. Its back under the windshield cowell. Have to lay on the engine to get to it. When the rubber grommets/ seals go bad it lets air into the system when parked nose uphill and you lose prime affording some hard starts. It is a 'T' in order to take return fuel from two places, the injectors and from the VP44 Overflow valve you were referring to above.

I know you were. Thought @Reddemonvp44 might have had the 2 locations mixxed up.

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Here is the "tee" Jag is mentioning.  Item 3.  Each of the connectors going to 3 have a small gasket.  This thing is very hard to reach with one hand, let alone 2 hands to tighten stuff.  (you are looking at the firewall side of the head.)

 

98502_fuel_plumb.jpg.aca1320fbe679ff14e0908cd1c1ea303.jpg

GL   HTH

Hag

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1 hour ago, Haggar said:

Here is the "tee" Jag is mentioning.  Item 3.  Each of the connectors going to 3 have a small gasket.  This thing is very hard to reach with one hand, let alone 2 hands to tighten stuff.  (you are looking at the firewall side of the head.)

 

98502_fuel_plumb.jpg.aca1320fbe679ff14e0908cd1c1ea303.jpg

GL   HTH

Hag

Number 6 is the "banjo bolt"/relief valve that I believe @Reddemonvp44 is refering to.

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I appreciate the info who has had luck with a hot rod vp44 it says 100 hp gain with supporting mods, I’m either going that route or 300 horsepower injectors on stock vp44 I have 150 hp injectors right now and what just a little more, what would I be happier with?

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Don't waste your money on special VP's 

 

get a run of the mill VP44 from DAP and call it a day.  

 

 

 

I have no idea about the rest of your mods so beyond 150hp injectors, but if you give us a goal we can tell you how to get there.

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Good ECU >> Key off for 30 seconds or more. Turn to on not start. Wait To Start light must light within a second or two then stays on briefly then turns off no matter what the temperature is. Then try starting.

A delayed wait to start light of more than a couple of seconds after turning on the key means ECU is dying.  

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