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 I set out to change the pre lift pump filter today. Ordered a wix part# 33270 from Amazon. When I went to change it I found a mess from whom ever installed the FASS ddrp. They cut the original hard plastic line and slipped a loose fitting rubber line over it and installed the included filter. It had to have been sucking air in.

 Question is, could I just go get some of the correct size rubber line (for fuel of course) and go from the quick connect fitting on the ddrp to when the plastic line turns into the aluminum hard line and install my filter in this rubber line?

 Truck is down now so I need to get it fixed.

See pics below.

 

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Just dodged (pun intended) an expensive bullet. The hard line was cut to adapt a screen filter pre lift pump. The soft like used was the wrong size and had to have been sucking air in. 

 I cut the hard line back a bit more and used some biofuel approved line of the correct size and spliced in my new filter. The line I had fits right to the hard line and I also installed spring type hose clamps to ensure an air tight fit. 

 Crisis averted! 

Checked fuel pressure after the install, at idle I'm at 16-17 psi. While revving the engine and holding it a 2000 rpm it holds steady at 12psi. I know that isn't the most accurate with no load on the engine but I will get gauges as soon as I can.

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The things folks do sometimes.

 

Be sure and check under load. You will see a much greater pressure loss u der load than free reving the engine. Takes very little fuel to free rev. Your pressure could be pretty low under load. 

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2 hours ago, Doubletrouble said:

 Since I fixed it she seems to sound a little different. Maybe it's in my head but seems better

 

If it was sucking some air, fixing it would make difference. I understand the head thing. I put a new clutch and brake foot pads in mine after quite a while of looking at a shiny steel plate for clutch pedal. I know I got 10 more hp out of those.

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Lol, I've done stuff like that to. Just waxing a hot rod adds 50hp and makes it more aerodynamic. Less wind drag because of the wax I guess.

 Would it be safe or stupid to maybe get a mechanical fuel pressure gauge until I get the funds for a 3 gauge pod setup? Probably end up with glow shift. I know they aren't the best out there but economically that's probably where I'll get the trio. 

 Would this kit work to re-plumb the fuel system in 3/8" line and move the pump down to the frame in front of the tank?

https://www.dieselautopower.com/vulcan-pusher-pump-system-for-1998-5-2002-dodge-cummins-3-8

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I had glow shift fuel pressure gauge as my first and had it tapped in of the test port on the VP with nothing to protect it. Look into a big line kit from Vulcan performance, DAP sells that kit also. You can get a tapped tee to put in it for the pressure gauge and at the least put a needle valve on it. The purpose of the valve is to barley crack it open. The VP sends alot of pulses back thru the fuel line that will beat a FP gauge death. Much like this.

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If your budget want allow for the kit you could do this off the test port but you have to have something between the port and the gauge or the glow shift will die an early death. Some others here use the glow shift. I used one for budget reasons so no shame on being on a budget. Also Glow Shift used to have the cheapest 3 gauge A piller pod out there. Still using mine.

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If funds are running tight I would talk with Eric at Vulcan Performance. He knows how to help you out. He builds the big line kits right there at his place. He actually mills out those fittings himself and has more room to help someone if they need. He only answers the phone during Business hours, but can help get rid of those restrictive banjo bolts and set you up correctly. And you won't be doing the fuel system in steps which can cost more.

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Funds will loosen up before long. Just came off a layoff at work not long ago and now we are saving for a vacation in mid April. Once that's behind me I'll be able to get some things done. Just have to be a little conservative, the reasoning behind getting a diesel truck was the reliability. If the wife sees me point a couple thousand into right of the rip she will flip. Lol

 She knows I will maintain and modify things as time goes on just not all at once.

With the above linked kit will I also need a draw straw? Or will the factory pick up do fine?

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The kit I used only ran from the filter to the VP and is still available at half the cost. The AD fuel system I bought took me to the filter. You will need to deal with all of it eventually but it depends on what you want to do in the future. You can google Vulcan big line kit and see what I mean. Most fuel systems are going to have a lot of what you need to get to the filter or VP included. But if your are going to be a while upgrading the fuel system the one link is not a bad either. Checking your fuel pressure under load is something you really need to do so you know where you stand with the pump you have.

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Being that the pressure before the VP is only 20psi or less could I extend my test gauge hose with a Barb fitting and get an accurate reading? 

 I could let it hang out from under the good just for testing around the block. Remove it when done.

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I think I'll do that just for piece of mind 

 Eventually I will upgrade to 3/8" line, better fittings and relocate the pump to the frame for a pusher set up. Should maybe get a bit more pressure, also more volume and more stable that way. 

 Not doing any huge hp mods, possibly larger injectors (+40 to +75's at most) not planning on a tuner just yet.

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8 minutes ago, Doubletrouble said:

 

 I could let it hang out from under the good just for testing around the block. Remove it when done.

 

I have one duct tape to my window for about a week.  I put one of those air bubble shipping pad in between gauge and window.

Edited by 015point9
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Get your pump squared away before adding anything. The reason the fuel pressure is so important is that fuel provides all the lubrication and cooling for the VP. 

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