Tighten front wheel hub

[IBMobile]

@BrokeAssPainter asked this question:

 

I just changed out my right wheel hub assy, everything I'm finding online says tighten to 20ft/lb then back off quarter turn and then hand tighten......... Honestly that just doesn't sound like it's going to hold my front tire on seeing as how it's a 2wd with independent front suspension. Anyone care to chime in? I'd really appreciate someone saving me from a catastrophic failure lmao

 

From the 2001 Dodge Ram FSM  page 59, section 2-8

FRONT - 2WD TORQUE SPECIFICATION 

Hub Bearing HD 2500/3500: 280 Ft. Lbs. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Tractorman]

10 minutes ago, IBMobile said:

I just changed out my right wheel hub assy, everything I'm finding online says tighten to 20ft/lb then back off quarter turn and then hand tighten.........

 

If the two wheel drive front bearing in this application does not use a sealed bearing cartridge (unit bearing), then this procedure does sound right.  If the hub uses an inner and outer tapered roller bearing that are not sealed then tightening to 20 ft/lbs seats the bearing races, backing off 1/4 turn gives free play, and finally hand tightening sets the preload.  There should also be a locking device to stop the nut from turning.

 

If the two wheel drive front bearing uses a unit bearing, then the 280 ft/lbs procedure would be applicable.

 

- John

[BrokeAssPainter]

I have no idea what the difference in bearings is hahaha I do know that it's the whole hub assy and the bearing is split in the center, and the hub nut has plastic on the end of it..... There's no spot for a cotter pin or anything. If it helps it's a 2001 2wd auto, IFS......

@IBMobile oops, just seen your post haha thanks bud, thanks for the replies guys, 

[Haggar]

Tractor man is dead on if you have a pair of tapered rollers.  That is how to get a proper preload on them.  (I go tighter than 20 to make sure everything is seated, but usually finger tight or a bit tighter is good.

 

But if you put a cartridge in like the picture, it will be the 250 ft*lb number. 

 

I "think" the cab/chassis solid front axle still utilized the non cartridge approach on front wheel bearings.

Hope that helps.

 

Hag

[BrokeAssPainter]

Yep that's mine, I really appreciate it guys I looked for like 3 hours last night and kept getting different answers lol you guys are awesome

[NorCalAndrew]

If the hub uses dual tapered bearing a final check would be to check endplay. Should be .001 to .003 inches. This makes sure the bearing are not too tight or too loose. Too tight means there is no grease between the bearings and the races, too loose means slopy and will wear out soon. 

[Dieselfuture]

3 minutes ago, NorCalAndrew said:

If the hub uses dual tapered bearing a final check would be to check endplay. Should be .001 to .003 inches. This makes sure the bearing are not too tight or too loose. Too tight means there is no grease between the bearings and the races, too loose means slopy and will wear out soon. 

That's a good point, I never understood how on some vehicles you need a pre-load. But for whatever reason some older axles required so many foot pounds while rotating the hub. 

[NorCalAndrew]

Preload is to get rid of the play and set everything tight. Then back off to establish some free play, hand tightening allows the endplay to be taken up with little to no pressure on the bearings. When done right there should be just the slightest endplay .001 to .003 inch. And you will not feel that little bit pulling and pushing the hub in or out, use a dial indicator. 

[AH64ID]

The pre-load also helps new bearings as they will wear-in more than used bearings. So set new bearings tighter than used bearings. 0-0.02” is what I’ve always used and normally they are closer to 0.

 

@BrokeAssPainter your truck has sealed bearings and needs the higher torque. 

[Dieselfuture]

What about on a trailer with cutter key, where you can only have it lose or tight. I always got them tight with pair of chanel locks, more like snug and then backed them off to closest key hole. 

[AH64ID]

1 hour ago, Dieselfuture said:

What about on a trailer with cutter key, where you can only have it lose or tight. I always got them tight with pair of chanel locks, more like snug and then backed them off to closest key hole. 

 

I would say I do the same... it's all based on feel for me. 

 

I'll be replacing the OE bearings in my 5th wheel this week and will be setting them one castleation tighter than I would on used bearings.