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Friday parts . Com

p/n-4921505 that’s their and Cummins P/N

and the dealer / Chrysler sells the adaptor for 

around 75$

Check it out and let me know what you think.

I just goes to show you how much people mark things up

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No. It takes everything I got to just pull the shaft over the wastegate arm. It heavily sprung.     No. P0237 code is a lo volt code for the MAP sensor and has zero to do with the was

I agree with Mike. You can put air pressure to the waste gate to move it. 

I use straight pins for back probing connectors. You can get them with plastic balls on the blunt end so there is no metsl to metal contact with each other. They are a lot easier to get into the conne

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I looked and thats pretty amazing. And if thats the original part # for an 00 to 02 MAP you may not need the pigtail. I am basing this on looks alone. The one next looks like the one that I have on mine now that requires it. The black is what my oe looked like. Of course as I said looks like, I dont know any specs on either of them. 

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From the photo this map has more square pins in it.

where mine now has more spade shaped pins

also this map has that funky shape around the pins a point on each side of the pins.

mine has an oval shape.

???? IDK that’s the way it looks to me.

I am going to pull the plug off the MAP in the truck and double check 

 

you know this has the Cummins # stamped on the side of it

i will let you know what i find

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Could I pick your brain?

i was wondering if I am hurting the Cummins driving it with a bad MAP and IAT sensor???

the parts are on order but the wife needs something to drive around town.

It doesn’t have much power but it runs good

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5 minutes ago, Clyde said:

Could I pick your brain?

i was wondering if I am hurting the Cummins driving it with a bad MAP and IAT sensor???

the parts are on order but the wife needs something to drive around town.

It doesn’t have much power but it runs good

You should be fine :2cents:

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22 hours ago, Clyde said:

i was wondering if I am hurting the Cummins driving it with a bad MAP and IAT sensor???

 

No. 

 

MAP sensor that is error out will prevent any damage because of limp mode. Just really low in power. No fuel is given since it can't see boost.

IAT sensor really doesn't do anything. If the IAT is below 80*F the timing jump up another +4* advanced. In limp mode timing is locked and limp mode power. This is why I made the MPG fooler warmer IAT (100 to 140*F) is actually better for efficiency than cold air. 

 

Hence why this was made... Plugs into both the IAT and ECT.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I received all my new sensors and installed them. The IAT and the MAP from Friday parts. The map sensor DID NEED the wiring adaptor.

So this did nothing for the limp mode and the truck is still throwing the 237 and 112 codes.

i did buy a scan tool but I am no electronic wizard.

Do you have any advise???

Maybe a step by step approach to identify the problem that is causing the codes.

I can let you know what I think

1-check all grounds, remove clean and tighten

2-remove ECM plug and check for moisture ,corrosion or contamination.

3- Check all other plugs for the same.

4- Check continuity between the sensor plug ins and the ECM.

5- measure voltage at the IAT and MAP sensor while the engine is running?????(Not sure how to do this???

I don’t have access to the dealer scan tool drb3 I only have my obd2 

Money is tight and I have plenty of time on my hands.

Any advise would help

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Right after your post on the cheap MAP sensors mine messed up a little. So I ordered 3 of them. I will try and see if I can swap mine out and be sure the sensors are not junk. 15 bucks for a MAP sensor is stupid cheap. I will try and swap mine with one of those Sunday and see if it works in mine.

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9 hours ago, Clyde said:

So I received all my new sensors and installed them. The IAT and the MAP from Friday parts. The map sensor DID NEED the wiring adaptor.

So this did nothing for the limp mode and the truck is still throwing the 237 and 112 codes.

i did buy a scan tool but I am no electronic wizard.

Do you have any advise???

Maybe a step by step approach to identify the problem that is causing the codes.

I can let you know what I think

1-check all grounds, remove clean and tighten

2-remove ECM plug and check for moisture ,corrosion or contamination.

3- Check all other plugs for the same.

4- Check continuity between the sensor plug ins and the ECM.

5- measure voltage at the IAT and MAP sensor while the engine is running?????(Not sure how to do this???

I don’t have access to the dealer scan tool drb3 I only have my obd2 

Money is tight and I have plenty of time on my hands.

Any advise would help

https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/obdii-error-codes_94/

 

Scroll down to your code and follow the steps, I just sorted out a map code on mine, was voltage too low, so as per the code I checked 5volt sensor supply, all good at 4.9v,  checked sensor return voltage  and this stayed at 2. something volts ( I forget ) but it didn't change no matter the rpm or boost. Mine was the Map sensor

 

 

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I just took a look at your first code number and don't forget you don't need a DRB to check voltages, a voltmeter is fine, in fact a voltmeter would be preferred as that will not lie, if necessary spoon into the back of any plugs carefully with a paperclip unwound or better still your voltmeter spoons if you have them, this gives you a volt out point without disconnecting the sensor  just make sure the clip does not short out to anything else I.E if checking the 5 volt supply make sure the paper clip does not short to ground/anything metal while testing, when testing grounds just check for 0 ohms or damn close to a good ground, if everything looks ok don't forget to do the wiggle test (this is actually a Caterpillar named test believe it or not) this is while measuring, move all wiring around, this will check bad connections or broken wires within the sheath.

 

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I use straight pins for back probing connectors. You can get them with plastic balls on the blunt end so there is no metsl to metal contact with each other. They are a lot easier to get into the connector too.

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15 minutes ago, dripley said:

I use straight pins for back probing connectors. You can get them with plastic balls on the blunt end so there is no metsl to metal contact with each other. They are a lot easier to get into the connector too.

 

I went to three or four stores a couple years ago looking for some pins better known as hat pins that women used to wear.  Last year was in a florist shop they use the same thing for their floral decorations...lady gave me about a half dozen of them,  plastic tip works great.  Or you can order what's actually called hat pins off Amazon and cost a fortune.  I'm not sure if I need pulled into this Century or the last couple decades.

Edited by 015point9
Because I messed up
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1 hour ago, 015point9 said:

 

I went to three or four stores a couple years ago looking for some pins better known as hat pins that women used to wear.  Last year was in a florist shop they use the same thing for their floral decorations...lady gave me about a half dozen of them,  plastic tip works great.  Or you can order what's actually called hat pins off Amazon and cost a fortune.  I'm not sure if I need pulled into this Century or the last couple decades.

The pointy end really with getting them in connector. I believe pins have pointy ends too. They are at about any sewing supply place. The wifes version of the auto parts store.

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Thanks everyone for the excellent suggestions.

When I check the 5volt wire(orange) I believe, put the meter on DC voltage; the meter positive (Red) goes to the Orange wire and the meter Negetive (black) goes to the battery ground???? Would this be correct?
How do I check the ground circuit ? Put the meter on ohms setting? Red meter probe on the ground wire at the plug?

Black meter probe on the battery negitive?

I am not sure how to do this? Could you confirm my ideas if they are correct or let me know what I am doing wrong.

thanks for any input 

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1 hour ago, Clyde said:

Thanks everyone for the excellent suggestions.

When I check the 5volt wire(orange) I believe, put the meter on DC voltage; the meter positive (Red) goes to the Orange wire and the meter Negetive (black) goes to the battery ground???? Would this be correct?
How do I check the ground circuit ? Put the meter on ohms setting? Red meter probe on the ground wire at the plug?

Black meter probe on the battery negitive?

I am not sure how to do this? Could you confirm my ideas if they are correct or let me know what I am doing wrong.

thanks for any input 

You are right

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