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Best injector for "MY" truck?


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I changed my stock ones at around 250k and ran a set of RV275's for the next 160k or so. The only thing either set ever did was get slight high idle when coasting to a stop. Once I got under 5 mph it would idle normally. Other than that they ran fine.

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1 hour ago, NIsaacs said:

 

10 weeks now, still waiting....

 

I've had to wait for exhaust system for a local job because of limited material caused from the COVID-19 shut down. I still have issues getting parts in any timely fashion at all. Even just a fan belt for Dodge Dakota took me a full week to get here. Local stores didn't have it. 

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29 minutes ago, AH64ID said:

 

Bummer!

 

Have you called them? I found them in stock at a couple online retailers with just a quick search. 

 

I have not contacted them at all, however, maybe they read this forum, they just shipped today:thumb1:

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13 minutes ago, NIsaacs said:

 

I have not contacted them at all, however, maybe they read this forum, they just shipped today:thumb1:

 

Sweet, I think that's a perfect injector for how you use your truck. 

 

If you have to drive by the pyro have you tried a lower Edge setting? Since you can't go WOT you may as well turn it down to where you can, as you end up with the same usable power. Or are there other features of the higher settings you like?

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I am running it on level 2 now, tow mode. It pulls fine on that setting and holds the EGT's good. It was hard for me to get out of the level 5 setting because that was where I used it for years when I traveled sled pulling. However, I spent most of my time on two lane roads and needed/wanted the passing power. I have finally realized with my local roads/hauling, it is very rare to pass. There are still times I would like a higher setting (when a Ford pulls beside me with an  8" exhaust tip:))  but unless I am stopped I don't mess with it. I have tried to set it on the fly but I always touch the screen in the wrong place (my truck is rough) and end up on a different page and mess it all up.

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Like myself I run level 2 on Quadzilla. More or less its stock fuel with your lead in de-fuel curve. More than enough power for daily driving. If I need a booster shot to pass long truck or series of cars. Yup. I tap the Quadzilla up to level 7 (100% wire tap). Then drop the hammer and let her eat. The level 2 is capped out to 100% fuel that all no added CANBus or wiretap. This allows me to be that sleeper truck... 

 

2 hours ago, NIsaacs said:

There are still times I would like a higher setting (when a Ford pulls beside me with an  8" exhaust tip:)

 

Always a bit of fun...:burnout:

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Installed the new injectors and tubes today. I haven't driven it yet, but it seems slightly quieter at idle. I did forget to plug the tps in, so now I have a check engine light, but I guess it will go off after a bit. Four hours for me to R&R. I didn't see anything unusual on the old pieces. I saved the tubes and mailed the injector cores back.

 

 

1118201100.jpg

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On 8/28/2020 at 9:55 AM, Tractorman said:

he OEM's still performed fine - good fuel mileage, no hard starts, and no abnormal EGT's when towing (the last 50,000 miles with Smarty S03).

 

Might be true but you'll find out if you have them tested at 100k to 150k they are already below 293 bar. Even my stock injectors had 150k miles on them. When I sent them to DAOP for testing failed badly at 250 to 260 bar. Yup they still run fine MPG was OK 18 to 19 MPG but the pop pressure was off for sure. Smoke was a bit more common to see but not bad. 

 

I just had another guy call me with a meltdown engine that was knocking. He attempted to run CR injectors to and now the piston is BANG BANG BANG as the engine is running. Just because it still runs good doesn't mean it a good idea to keep running on known wore out parts. :whistle: I even told him the same thing... 100k to 150k get them changed. 

 

Got another just down the road from me it won't start unless a shot of ether is used. But runs fine no problems. :duh:

 

Don't push your luck with 24V injectors they are so cheap to get and easy to do why?

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On 11/19/2020 at 5:23 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Might be true but you'll find out if you have them tested at 100k to 150k they are already below 293 bar. Even my stock injectors had 150k miles on them. When I sent them to DAOP for testing failed badly at 250 to 260 bar. Yup they still run fine MPG was OK 18 to 19 MPG but the pop pressure was off for sure. Smoke was a bit more common to see but not bad. 

 

I just had another guy call me with a meltdown engine that was knocking. He attempted to run CR injectors to and now the piston is BANG BANG BANG as the engine is running. Just because it still runs good doesn't mean it a good idea to keep running on known wore out parts. :whistle: I even told him the same thing... 100k to 150k get them changed. 

 

Got another just down the road from me it won't start unless a shot of ether is used. But runs fine no problems. :duh:

 

Don't push your luck with 24V injectors they are so cheap to get and easy to do why?

 

 

Starting to agree, a little:)

 

Hauled a load of manure yesterday. I noticed a quieter engine at cruise, less smoke at low boost with some throttle, more responsive launch at idle and no rpm rise when stopping. 

 

I do still have a slightly longer overnight start with a half a tank of fuel. I am just going to run it until it gets worse, right now it is hit or miss. I will report back when I get some miles on it to see if the fuel mileage went up any.

 

EGT's went down (level 3) but so did power. I have a load of cinders to deliver today, going back to my favorite level (5) and see. The temps are a lot cooler now. I was running on level 2 and 3 all summer.

Edited by NIsaacs
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