I want to finish the WT Wiring mod but...

[hdpwipmonkey]

So I did the WT ground portion but I want to finish it and move the alternator cable from the PDC to the passenger side battery.  My original plan was to use the original cable from the alternator and cut it and run it to a circuit breaker then use more of it from the circuit breaker to the battery.  This will involve buying the circuit breaker, some lugs, and a crimper for the lugs.  While doing some research on which size lugs I'd need to do this job I ran across that custombatterycables.com makes an 18 in 4 gauge wire with a fusible link to run between the alternator and passenger-side battery.  The price for this cable is $31.75.  So now the question, do I buy all the stuff I'd need to make my own cable or should I just buy the one from Custom Battery Cables?  To build my own I know it'll be more than the $31.75 for the pre-made cable but if the fusible link goes then it'll be another $31.75 for another one.  

 

Another question, if I make my own any one know what size lugs I'll need to be able to reuse the original alternator cable? 

 

Thanks.

[JAG1]

I wouldn't use a fusible link. What if it blows a million miles from anywhere and there's no breaker to switch back on or a 150 amp fuse to change?

 

To match the lugs to wire look at the package to tell me what size goes with what gauge wire. Often having a striped piece of the cable helps to bring along and test for the right size that way.

 

I'm glad to hear you are getting around to doing this important change on your truck. Looks to me like you got a nice one for sure 

Edited August 30, 2020 by JAG1

[IBMobile]

 

7 hours ago, hdpwipmonkey said:

To build my own I know it'll be more than the $31.75

Amazon 150 amp circuit breaker

https://www.amazon.com/STETION-Circuit-Trolling-12V-48VDC-Waterproof/dp/B07TBF1GVK/ref=sr_1_10?crid=3ICPSG3HB92FB&dchild=1&keywords=circuit+breaker+automotive&qid=1598790776&s=automotive&sprefix=circuit%2Caps%2C193&sr=1-10

 

7 hours ago, hdpwipmonkey said:

Another question, if I make my own any one know what size lugs I'll need to be able to reuse the original alternator cable? 

The cable is a #6 AGW

• 1  #6-5/16" lug
• 1  #6-1/4" lug

If you add the above circuit breaker you'll need 2 more #6-1/4" lugs. 

  

[Mopar1973Man]

I never bought any cable. Only crimps for the cable ends. I reused all the alternator lead. Then reused most of the ground lead again. No cable to buy... 

Edited August 30, 2020 by Mopar1973Man

[Doubletrouble]

 I did this mod a while back. I think I got a bad breaker. It kept tripping for unknown reasons. The grid heaters were even disconnected. I did buy a cheaper one. I think $10 from Amazon, probably chinese junk. Is there a better one out there to look for? Any trouble with the one in the link above @IBMobile ?

[Mopar1973Man]

I've got a circuit breaker off of Amazon and never tripped once. Another vehicle I did the circuit breaker he's got heavy electric loads or something that keeps burning up the circuit breaker. I've got a 150A fuse and holder sitting here for his truck if he popping that there is something wrong. Alternator is 136A total period. Should never flow over 150A worth of current charging. 

[Doubletrouble]

 Is there a way to measure the amperage with out having a DC loop amp meter?

[Mopar1973Man]

Why? Alternator is rated at 136A... It should never exceed that. The only why that happens is if there is bad diodes shorting out. The alternator should never exceed that 136A rating charging. The only thing the amperage would go higher is a short in the alternator. If you not sure than bench test your alternator. No amp meter needed. Even the stock alternator fuse is 140A... Why would it trip a 150A breaker?

[Doubletrouble]

 That's why I am blaming the breaker quality. The factory 140 fuse never blew. 

[hdpwipmonkey]

Thanks @JAG1

 

So everyone is saying to not buy the pre-made cable from custombatterycables.com and to just make my own?

https://www.custombatterycables.com/Products/dodge-alternator-cable-4-gauge/

 

So:

$21 for the breaker

$30-40 for the hydraulic crimper

~$10 for the lugs

 

...about $60 to make my own.   Why go this route over the $31 fusible link cable?    Is it just because of it being a one and done setup and not having a fuse or circuit breaker to replace or reset?

 

Thanks @IBMobile for the lug sizes.

Edited August 30, 2020 by hdpwipmonkey

[JAG1]

37 minutes ago, hdpwipmonkey said:

Thanks @JAG1

  Is it just because of it being a one and done setup and not having a fuse or circuit breaker to replace or reset?

 

 

Yes, it's always best to have options when traveling away from home. Both my trucks got the replaceable fuses because some of the reviews about the breakers said that they were tripping at 75 amps not at the rated 150. I got Blue Sea Systems brand on both my rigs because they are very reliable quality.

 

There are ways to make your own crimper using a bench vise, but I always fill mine with good quality solder and only squeeze them in the bench vise just a little prior to solder. A lot of good guys around here are attending a different school saying not to solder, but always crimp your electrical for a vehicle or boat. Without solder I would get or make a good crimping tool to use in the bench vise. 

Edited August 30, 2020 by JAG1

[dripley]

Solder the ends. I know some dont agree with that but I have yet to have any problems with mine from the ground mod or making new battery cables. If you do want to crimp them thats fine too. But you will use them again and will spread that part of the cost out a bit. 

[IBMobile]

 

35 minutes ago, hdpwipmonkey said:

$30-40 for the hydraulic crimper

You don't need a crimper.  I soldered all the cables into the lugs with a small butane torch and rosin core solder.   You can use a propane torch on low.   

 

2 hours ago, Doubletrouble said:

Any trouble with the one in the link above @IBMobile ?

I didn't use a breaker.  I did a fuse like @JAG1 has on his trucks. It costs a little more than a breaker. 

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Block-Insulating/dp/B000K2K7TW/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Blue+Sea+Systems+ANL+Fuse+Block+with+Insulating+Cover+-+35-300A+(5005)&qid=1598808156&s=automotive&sr=1-1-catcorr

 

https://www.amazon.com/NEP-ANL-Fuse-3-Pack-150/dp/B077RF3FWJ/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=NEP+ANL+fuse+3+pack+(150+amp)&qid=1598808320&s=automotive&sr=1-3-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyVUFVODBGTkFVRjdBJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEyWUFRUFJCOEhZUUFNJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA4MTYyODUxSk1PTVc1OUNDTDQ0JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

[hdpwipmonkey]

Thanks everyone for your input.  I guess I have some more decisions to make... 

[hdpwipmonkey]

Well, I finally got the circuit breaker install finished.  I also cleaned up all the extra cables going to the batterys so it looks much cleaner.  I also left my grid heaters disconnected from the battery.

 

I went with this circuit breaker

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G5WHP2M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

 

 

From this:

 

To This:

 

 

 

Edited September 3, 2020 by hdpwipmonkey

[IBMobile]

It's looking good. Now just two more thing to do on the wiring under the hood.

 

 

 

[hdpwipmonkey]

3 hours ago, IBMobile said:

It's looking good. Now just two more thing to do on the wiring under the hood.

 

 

 

Thanks.  I'll add those to the list next.