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99 24v crank but no start new vp44 and ecm repaired


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Hey everyone. 
I’m new here. Have always read Info on here but just joined. I bought a 99 2500 2wd to flip. It started as a side job a guy wanted a vp44 installed because he thought that was what was going on. Long story short put in pump and no start. Guy was over it and I bought the truck for cost of the pump. Talked to blue chip diesel and did there diagnostic test and lead to the ecm. Sent the ecm off and got it back. Still no start.

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5 hours ago, Loveacummins said:

Hey everyone. 
I’m new here. Have always read Info on here but just joined. I bought a 99 2500 2wd to flip. It started as a side job a guy wanted a vp44 installed because he thought that was what was going on. Long story short put in pump and no start. Guy was over it and I bought the truck for cost of the pump. Talked to blue chip diesel and did there diagnostic test and lead to the ecm. Sent the ecm off and got it back. Still no start 

have fuel at the injectors. The truck will run with the pump hard wired on pins. When I got it the truck had sat weeks with the batteries disconnected. No codes were present at the time. Sent the ecm in after talking to blue chip diesel.

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The wait to start light does come on. That is one of the repairs they did. Computer specialist did the ecm. It was one of the top 5 on a thread I was read somewhere on here.

 

definently going to start chasing down wires. The truck is very clean under the hood. I’ll post when I have done more. Thanks to everyone so far.

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For anyone curious. I came across something that wasn’t even on a Cummins forum. It was on a gas 1500 dodge forum that said if the door lock fuse is blown the truck will have a crank but no start problem. Well. Being that it was a Chrysler truck I figured it couldn’t hurt to check. Noticed the remote didn’t unlock the doors so I tried with the door switch and nothing. So went to the fuse box and found the lock fuse and it was indeed blown. Replaced and truck fired right up. I feel this was ridiculous but the stuff I read said that some ecm signal travels through that circuit. Thanks all until next time.

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This is interesting...

 

I am going to go pull my fuse and see if she starts :bolt:

1 hour ago, Dieselfuture said:

That is screwed up, I hope my truck is not like that :pray:. Or if it is, it be a good one to put on a switch so no one can steal it if you're parking out in middle of nowhere. 

Switch... Hell, just pull the fuse and put it your pocket and take it with you :lol:

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Amazing fix!  Good job. Can't help wonder if it was not necessary to replace the VP44 and rebuild the ect.

 

Years ago I bought my 99 beetle tdi  with 100k miles on it dirt cheap because the previous owner couldn't figure out why it wouldn't run (started then died right away). He took it to a dealer who charged him $3500 for a new turbo and injection pump which did not solve the problem.

I didn't know what I was getting into when I bought it but I took a chance. After a couple of days me and a friend figured out issue was due to a faulty N75 valve. It's a $35 part which controls the turbo boost valve.  

 

I drove that car for 10 years and put 235k miles on it until I blew the head gasket. Now she sits on the side of my house waiting for me to find time to fix it!

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

I have pulled this fuse in the past when my door key lock got wet and was shorting out. It was sending unlock signals constantly making my locks click.

 

Pulling the fuse on my truck caused the engine to start and then shut off 1 second later. This fuse sent power to my factory alarm and it would trigger the immobilizer without the power. 

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