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21 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

If the Cummins ECM software is enabled you can't run the Quadzilla High Idle too. The two system tend to get in conflict and then stall out the engine. I typically turn off the Quadzilla high idle in the winter time and use the Mopar1973Man High Idle switch. This way I still can control high idle for the Cummins ECM and just shut off the Quadzilla. There is NO WAY to shut off the ECM software once its enabled. You would have to go to a dealer and have your ECM reflashed to disable the high idle function.

 

All about that system...

Interesting.

 

This truck has only seen winter the last 2 years of its life. My grandparents wintered in southern Arizona up until my grandpa couldn't drive anymore. I don't use it much during the winter either, I mainly use it to tow my 5th wheel and a couple dump runs here and there. It has never had an ECM re-flash, like I said I have done all maintenance since new. Only has 126k miles.

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From my own experience I can say 7x10 at 320bar with mild set up is where it's at. To each their own, but I had few different types/sizes of injectors in my truck and by far what I have now I love bes

here was my messing with it.         Keep in mind that 320 bar is not creating extra wear.  310 stock is only the pop pressure, the pump continues to build pressure's much hi

I have no coolant temp issues. Maybe 200-210. So i tightened the rod on my wastegate until it had no play then went a little further. Im now getting about 30psi of boost on hard acceleration in st

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11 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Did anyone run a Smarty on the truck possibly? A Smarty Tuner will automatically enable the high idle and leave it for you too. This is how I got mine enabled on my truck and remians enabled. 

 

Only tuner ever used was the superchips and it had no high idle feature. 

 

It works now, just a fluke thing I guess.

 

14 minutes ago, Zamboni said:

This truck has only seen winter the last 2 years of its life. My grandparents wintered in southern Arizona up until my grandpa couldn't drive anymore. I don't use it much during the winter either, I mainly use it to tow my 5th wheel and a couple dump runs here and there. It has never had an ECM re-flash, like I said I have done all maintenance since new. Only has 126k miles.

 

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Just now, Doubletrouble said:

 Not to hi-jck but how does the factory high idle work. It's supposed to get down in the 30's tonight so I'd like to pay attention to see if mine is enabled. 

 

If enabled...

 

For 6 CYLINDER - IAT must stay below 32*F with grid heaters running, and the ECT must be below 140*F to start. 

For 3 CYLINDER - IAT must stay below 15*F with grid heaters running, and the ECT must be below 140*F to start.

 

To CANCEL

  • Step on the brake pedal
  • Step on the throttle pedal
  • Auto Transmission shifted into gear.
  • Road speed above 0 MPH

 

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43 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

If the Cummins ECM software is enabled you can't run the Quadzilla High Idle too. The two system tend to get in conflict and then stall out the engine. I typically turn off the Quadzilla high idle in the winter time and use the Mopar1973Man High Idle switch. This way I still can control high idle for the Cummins ECM and just shut off the Quadzilla. There is NO WAY to shut off the ECM software once its enabled. You would have to go to a dealer and have your ECM reflashed to disable the high idle function.

 

All about that system...

 

DoubleTrouble this explains it well

 

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Not to high jack either

 

This is where the concept came from. I figured out how to control the ECM with a few toggle switches and resistors. Same concept today but the package is smaller and much easier to use for you and much easier to produce for me. I've gotta say THANK YOU to @Me78569 being he does my solder work and The Harness Shop in Caldwell, ID that produces the cables. 

 

Yup that is VERSION 1.0 back a long time ago...

image.jpeg

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1 minute ago, Zamboni said:

Nice. I am an Aircraft Electrician for the Air Force, that would be a pretty simple project, I could build the harnesses and do the soldering. 

Why? All done for you...

 

 

I've got my switch hidden in the pouch in the dash. Never know its even there. The bonus to the high idle switch you can do many other task with it. 

 

Some of the features and how they help.

  • Cool down a hot cab in the summer. Set for 6 CYL and start the truck with MAX A/C on and it will cool down quickly.
  • Working with a winch you can set 6 CYL mode and keep the alternator charging strong on the batteries while working the winch. 
  • Jump start another vehicle. This is so nice hook up and set 6 CYL and let it charge up and start the dead vehicle. 
  • 3 CYL mode and exhaust brake I can produce up to 1,000*F EGT's and warm up a cold engine in a mere 8 to 10 minutes from -20*F to 170*F coolant temp.
  • Select the MPG mode and the IAT is forced up to 143*F so the ECM RETARDS the timing in the winter time giving roughly 2 MPG gain. 
  • 6 CYL mode is locked as long as the switch is left in the 6 CYL position. If you turn it off after starting you can have it auto cancel at 170*F coolant temp. 
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Where is the proof that 320 bar helps. Wouldn't it be harder on the pump pushing extra pressure? Do not see it being pushed by REAL injector builders. Hmmm...Got a Quad & injectors at 320 bar & my VP blew up.  WTF?????   

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2 hours ago, jag said:

Where is the proof that 320 bar helps. Wouldn't it be harder on the pump pushing extra pressure? Do not see it being pushed by REAL injector builders. Hmmm...Got a Quad & injectors at 320 bar & my VP blew up.  WTF?????   

 

Specification right out of the Dodge FSM...

 

fuel-pressure-specs.jpg

 

The difference is so minimal... 1 Bar is 14.5 PSI 

 

310 bar = 4496.17 PSI

320 bar = 4641.21 PSI

 

293 bar is the bottom limit by Dodge FSM (-250 PSI)

300 bar is what builders use (Shorter life span of about 50k to 60K)

305 bar is what builders use (shorter life span of about 70k to 80k )

310 bar is equal to 4500 PSI - Stock pressure

320 bar is equal to 4641 PSI 

327 bar is the upper limit by Dodge FSM (+250 PSI)

 

The only reason builders go low they can hence the flow by going lower in pressure. This makes for a very large droplets and more smoke. Going up makes the atomaztion cleaner and slightly less fuel sprayed. Once you drop below 290 bar the injectors are getting even more smoke. By 280 your start to get a miss at idle. There is nothing gained by low pop pressure injectors but extra smoke and lower MPG's, high EGT's. 

 

I towed my RV to Arizona last summer and did over 14.7 MPG on my highest MPG. Averaged 12.6 for the trip to Arizona from Idaho. EGT's would not cross 1,200*F with my cruise set for 65 MPH. 320 bar Injectors are not the cause. 

 

The pump goes all the way up to over 18k to 21k roughly in pressure  what it can build with WOT.

 

4 Ways to kill a VP44...

  1. Low fuel pressure
  2. High AC noise
  3. Low Lubricity of fuel
  4. Poor fuel filters

 

I've been running 320 bar for 3 years just about now. Over 100k on the VP44 because I didn't tap till after 100k miles. Pop pressure is not the cause... We had people test all the way to 360 bar. Then 330 bar is nearly impossible in subzero to start. 320 bar is clean spray and starts all the way to -40*F which I've tested personally over 3 winters. Remember the Dodge FSM upper limit is 327 bar which I'm still under that limit. 

 

Now remember you can lose up to 10 bar in just the break in period of the injectors. Just ask @pepsi71ocean about what the pop pressure was after 28k miles...

Edited by Mopar1973Man
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Prior to having my injectors set to 320BAR i had changed the nozzles myself i thought it ran ok but did notice a slight rough idle, rough running at high RPMs while towing and high EGTs, after having the injectors built and set at 320 the truck idles very smooth and has no high RPM or EGT issues. My injectors had just over 100k miles and im pretty sure they were well below recommended pressures. 

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5 minutes ago, Zamboni said:

i had changed the nozzles myself i thought it ran ok but did notice a slight rough idle, rough running at high RPMs while towing and high EGTs,

 

Yeah that is signs of low pop pressure and larger droplets are hard to burn. Takes more time to heat the droplet to vapor, to make it go BANG! Finer mist always will run cooler and smoother. Lower pop pressure enhances fuel flow, Higher pop pressure enhance MPG and clean exhaust, lower EGT's. People tend to forget the pop pressure is the starting point of when it opens period. The maximum pressure of the injection pump is well above 18,000 PSI at WOT....

Edited by Mopar1973Man
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2 hours ago, jag said:

Where is the proof that 320 bar helps. Wouldn't it be harder on the pump pushing extra pressure? Do not see it being pushed by REAL injector builders. Hmmm...Got a Quad & injectors at 320 bar & my VP blew up.  WTF?????   

here was my messing with it.

 

 

 

 

Keep in mind that 320 bar is not creating extra wear.  310 stock is only the pop pressure, the pump continues to build pressure's much higher than 320 bar.   I ran all the way up to 350 bar witout noticeable issue.   I noted the best mileage and smoke control and driveablity at 330 bar.   

 

Was it worth it?  I dunno looking back on it, it was fun to mess with, but the normal guy wouldn't notice.  

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From my own experience I can say 7x10 at 320bar with mild set up is where it's at. To each their own, but I had few different types/sizes of injectors in my truck and by far what I have now I love best. Thanks @Me78569 @Mopar1973Man for doing all the work.

 

Got to add, it won't be as good without quad and v2 tuning that @Me78569 put so much time in.

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