Tuning Quadzilla

[LorenS]

37 minutes ago, Ravewolf said:

Would a bad battery cause all this?

In my experience with other applications it will.  And reading enough on this site for a few years, it's clear it happens to others as well.  No promises it will fix your issue, but it certainly could.  Important to replace both batteries!  My last set of batteries for current truck were from the previous owner, Wal-Mart brand.  Were six years old and would still be going strong but at some point one of the posts started to leak acid/gas where it meets the case.  Too much "oomph" removing a stubborn terminal, I'd guess.  I replaced with two DEKA Gold brand batteries from the local guy for $270, total.  No need to spend $600 for batteries unless it makes you feel good.

I know some people love all the CCA they can get, but I really feel the manufacturers get those high ratings at the expense of durability (like mechanically able to take the vibrations and bounces our trucks dish out).  Like the distance between plates is reduced or something, so if a piece of plate finally busts loose it can't fall to the bottom but instead shorts out.

[Ravewolf]

Just a quick question, where would I find the numbers for the correct woodruff key for my pump? 

[Haggar]

And yes, the VP can be dead or dying with no P0216 code.   216 is a nice confirmation it's toast, but we know of at least 4 that had severe drive-ability issues and never threw a P0216 code.  A couple never threw codes out.

 

HTH

Hag

[LorenS]

11 hours ago, Ravewolf said:

where would I find the numbers for the correct woodruff key

Good question! I don't know, either. Depending on what they cost, maybe buy several different ones and try them? Lot of work but cheaper than a pump!

 

Looks like it should be on the tag.

https://www.cumminsforum.com/threads/vp44-woodruff-key-identification.365023/

Edited March 9, 2021 by LorenS

[dripley]

I beieve the key nummber is on the data plate on the pump. 

Here. Not a very good place to try and read it though. 

You could try and take a picture of it with your phone maybe.

Edited March 9, 2021 by dripley

[Mopar1973Man]

The number for the key is stamp in that area it should be a 3 digit code. As you'll see in this list. The number are stamped on both the key and the body of the pump. 

 

 

Edited March 9, 2021 by Mopar1973Man

[Ravewolf]

Is this where to find the woodruff key size? The side plate is too hard to read, but I found this on the body of the pump

[dripley]

Its possible I guess. I just cant remember for sure where that number is. And it is listed as a 3 digit number like 036. I did find this.

I googled "key number on a vp44 injection pump and a lot of info came up. Just dont have time to dig thru it.

[Ravewolf]

Idk why I didn't think of it first, but I got a mirror, and checked the side of the pump. My old pump was a 027, and this one is a 043. I'm using the old pump key (027) in the new pump. Might explain a few things, eh? Lol. Sorry for clogging the board with my nonsense. 

[LorenS]

For $7 plus shipping I think I'd just get one coming, just in case it is the right one.

https://www.industrialinjection.com/product/woodruff-key-for-vp44-shaft-036/

 

EDIT: Good thing you checked before just buying an 036!

Edited March 11, 2021 by LorenS

[Ravewolf]

1 minute ago, LorenS said:

For $7 plus shipping I think I'd just get one coming, just in case it is the right one.

https://www.industrialinjection.com/product/woodruff-key-for-vp44-shaft-036/

 

EDIT: Good thing you checked before just buying an 036!

Already got one on the way. I just wish I knew where the hell the old one flew off to. I remember pulling it out, watching it pop out of my fingers, and what I thought was dropping underneath the truck. I spent ten minutes with a magnet outside looking for it. It's either in another dimension (along with all the 10mms) or a damn squirrel took it.

[hdpwipmonkey]

21 minutes ago, Ravewolf said:

Already got one on the way. I just wish I knew where the hell the old one flew off to. I remember pulling it out, watching it pop out of my fingers, and what I thought was dropping underneath the truck. I spent ten minutes with a magnet outside looking for it. It's either in another dimension (along with all the 10mms) or a damn squirrel took it.

It was taken by an inter-dimensional squirrel and when you find him ask him to bring my 10mms back too please...

[Mopar1973Man]

9 hours ago, Ravewolf said:

Idk why I didn't think of it first, but I got a mirror, and checked the side of the pump. My old pump was a 027, and this one is a 043. I'm using the old pump key (027) in the new pump. Might explain a few things, eh? Lol. Sorry for clogging the board with my nonsense. 

 

Never swap shaft keys! They are calibrated for that stamped number key on the body. 

[Ravewolf]

12 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

 

Never swap shaft keys! They are calibrated for that stamped number key on the body. 

I did not know this until very recently. Also, I found the key! It is a 036 after all! Thank god I found it or I'd still be chasing my tail! 

[Mopar1973Man]

You cannot free rev (neutral) a Quadzilla tuner there isn't any way to free rev the engine without it backfiring. If you want to free rev the engine turn the Quadzilla to level ZERO first. 

 

Fuel pressure gauge is taking a huge beating in the video it will eat the gears in the gauge soon if left the way it is. 

[LorenS]

7 minutes ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Fuel pressure gauge is taking a huge beating in the video it will eat the gears in the gauge soon if left the way it is.

If you can find someone to make the little bracket like you have for your pressure sensors, that would be a great addition to the Store!  Or have Vulcan make a kit, and send you a royalty fee for each kit sold.

Tramec-Sloan makes a bulkhead fitting that would be AWESOME for this application, but trying to find a place where I can buy them has thus far proved to be a fool's errand.  The part number is S766PMT-4-2.  Sell that, a few feet of 1/4" airbrake hose (I assume it would coil up in a shipping envelope?), and a normal straight male connector (such as S768PMT-4-2) for the engine end, and a bracket all in one kit would make it easy to click "Add to Cart"!

[Mopar1973Man]

I could make them here but I would have to tool up a bit. I would need a good hacksaw or chop saw. Then drill bit to drill 2 holes and 1 mounting hole. The press fit the two couplers in the bracket and braze the fitting in the bracket. Now paint it black and place it up on the store. Mine was produced by Eric at Vulcan Performance but he's not really wanting to build those for me. I kind of want to make a tester edition where there is four ports. This way the sensors can stay installed and a test gauge installed in the test ports and verify in really time how accurate the gauge is in real time version pulling the gauge sender out attempting to tee the line and fit it all under the hood. Even the simple gauge bracket I could build pretty quick. 

 

Edited March 12, 2021 by Mopar1973Man

[LorenS]

With something like this, the need to have super accurate holes or brazing is eliminated.  Surely the list price is some kind of fantasy, and the parts when bought by the bag would be less than $10 apiece, maybe closer to $5 each.  https://midlandindustries.com/product.php?cat=Brass+Fittings&section=DOT+Composite+Body+Push-In&shape=&master=DOT+Composite+Style+Push-In+Female+Bulkhead+Connector 

Just learned they are about 8 miles from where I work.  I will see if our company has an account with them so I can get an even better cash price.

Anyone can run a can of spray paint, so I wouldn't even worry about that!  Or charge $5 extra for painting, just for the hassle and dealing with people who would think it should have a Concourse D'Elegance quality of paint application.

 

I assumed you could build them, but didn't figure you'd want to take the time to do so.  Someone already in a production space can just whip things out a lot faster - no setting up, etc.  The tools are always set up!

Edited March 12, 2021 by LorenS

[Mopar1973Man]

Dang that cost more than the rest of the bracket making the price super high. The press fit will not work because people like to super torque the fitting because there scared of leaks. It would just spin it out of the hole. Even just standard plumbers solder would even work. I've solder my fitting to my PTO plate for my trans temp gauge and ZERO issues. 3 years counting. I can get double female brass fitting coupler for much less like cents now press it in the hole and heat and lightly solder. Then paint. Same thing Eric did on mine because of even getting a press fit was easy to spin the fitting out of the bracket with just getting the sensor tight. Hence mine is just tack welded on the bottom. 

[Ravewolf]

7 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

You cannot free rev (neutral) a Quadzilla tuner there isn't any way to free rev the engine without it backfiring. If you want to free rev the engine turn the Quadzilla to level ZERO first. 

 

Fuel pressure gauge is taking a huge beating in the video it will eat the gears in the gauge soon if left the way it is. 

It's a mechanical gauge hooked directly to the fuel line, and I have a damper hooked in before the gauge hookup. Would it help if I moved it somewhere else? I just bought it for a temporary solution. I'm going to order a glowshift gauge kit here soon and redo it all.