Jump to content
Mopar1973Man.Com LLC
  • Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

    We are a privately owned support forum for the Dodge Ram Cummins Diesels. All information is free to read for everyone. To interact or ask questions you must have a subscription plan to enable all other features beyond reading. Please go over to the Subscription Page and pick out a plan that fits you best. At any time you wish to cancel the subscription please go back over to the Subscription Page and hit the Cancel button and your subscription will be stopped. All subscriptions are auto-renewing. 

2001 dodge 3500


Recommended Posts

What’s up new guy here, just bought my truck a couple months ago and stumbled onto the site, lots of cool info. Look forward to sharing my truck and learning from everyone. 
 

Like the title says it’s an 01 dodge 3500 4x4 5 speed, it has 301k miles and was a work truck for all but a couple years of its life. Start up construction company bought it in 2005 from an old man that bought it new, they put a flatbed on it and towed equipment trailers. I bought it for what I consider a good deal considering current economic times and plan on making into the weekend truck for the family, tow my boat and looking to buy a truck camper. 
 

The guy I bought it from took pretty good care of it considering, it’s very dirty all around and a little rusty on the underside. Has a new clutch and everything works other than a/c. Crazy thing is he claims he’s never had to do a lift pump injection pump or injectors, always put 2 stroke oil in with each tank of fuel but said the shop mechanic would just fix stuff time to time and might not have told him. All I done so far is deep clean interior, change oil flush coolant and add a bhaf. 
 

Long winded for an intro but excited for it all, thanks 

F81E3818-84A5-4BF9-B6F1-55AA89FA0502.jpeg

754A4E10-64B9-41CF-B9D1-0AE8B6160784.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Owner

Look for the VOID sticker on the VP44 electric connector if the stick is still there and not torn then yes its the OEM pump from the factory. 

 

Grid heat has been sticking on. Hence the burnt appearance of the coating on the intake.

 

Lift pump is a factory location but hard to tell if its been changed or not. But still in all you need to test the fuel pressure. 14 to 20 PSI is optimal. Stock is 10 to 14 PSI. Marginal... But I seriously doubt that pump is still going strong. 

 

Need to to the crankcase vent mod... Then do the W-T ground wire mod... 

Edited by Mopar1973Man
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Staff

 In the first set of pics I noticed disk brakes in the rear? Mine is an '01 3500 4x4 but has rear drums. Was that an option? I would prefer disks. Just curious.

 Welcome to the forum, there is alot here to learn and gain from reading. Check out all the tech articles that apply to your your truck. Lots of stuff there.

 Nice truck! You'll love it the more you drive it. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Truck looks good!
 

Also, As someone else with a disc brake dually truck, keep an eye on the fluid level. They are expensive to replace. I now grease the bearings yearly. Passenger side is usually the problem child with the oiling issues.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good to know I’ll check out the sticker and see what I can find out. I’m getting a list going of all the things I need to do to get it reliable I’ll add the grid heater to it, thanks. Yea this is my first truck with rear disks and trying to diagnose the parking brake has been interesting. Can’t tell by the pictures but, the rotors are cracked in a few spots and are badly warped. Looks to be a fun job pulling the hub off to replace them. 


I could be wrong but in some research I’ve done, I thought I saw that a fix from dodge for a warranty lift pump was to install a pump in the fuel tank, curious if anyone can shed some light on that?

Edited by Concreter
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Owner

In tank pumps are junk unless you can get 4th gen or 5th gen pump. Then the headache of retrofit that pump in a 2nd gen tank.

 

Parking brakes make sure the shoes are in good condition then set the slack on the starwheels to make the shoe lightly drag. Now set you cable slack to pull the shoes tight. Also the two rear cables are prone to rusting and binding.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The lift pumps are a concern and you should think about changing over to an electric or mechanical.  You get to make the choice. Pros and cons on both. In tank pumps suck in my opinion. Had one on mine and it did not last. About $1k for mine from Dodge 380k miles ago. If the truck is 100% stock maybe not a ticking time bomb, your guess is as good as mine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Staff

 Mine has a fass ddrp, it's in the factory location but a better pump. Probably one of the least expensive upgrades from a factory lift pump. I plan on moving it to the frame to get it closer to the tank to make it more of a pusher pump rather than pulling fuel so far. Those pumps, factory or aftermarket, aren't meant to draw fuel so far away from the tank. 

 Larger lines wouldn't hurt either. That's also in my plan. Factory lines are small. I plan on going to 3/8" line. My truck will remain mostly stock with so slight upgrades along the way but nothing to crazy. Just want reliable and long life out if her.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My DDRP is on the frame with a spin on screen ahead of it. Works very well for my stock injectors and some Quadzilla Adrenaline CANbus fueling. Now if I would just take Mike's advice to move my fuel return out of the fuel module basket, I'd really be doing well in that department. Pressure is good, but fuel temp gets hot.

Edited by LorenS
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was looking at that pump, price point is good. I didn’t think about mounting on the frame rail that would be nice. Just need to get some time from work to work on it before summer gets full swing so I can use it 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...