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Posted

When my truck is plugged in and has sat all weekend, it will fire right up.  I went to leave work today, the wts light ran for a normal amount of time but the truck fired for a second and died.  It did that 3 times, the 4th time it fired up and ran a tad rough for a moment and then smoothed right out.  I figured if I was losing fuel prime it would do that all the time, especially when sitting for extended periods.  

Posted

Did you observe the normal voltage drop while the "wait to start" light was on? 

 

I don't know what your temperatures were where you live in Kuna, Idaho were today, but here, near Baker City, the high was only 26 F.

 

- John

  • Owner
Posted

Grid heaters will not cause stalling. 

 

This morning Beast was started with no block heater and no waiting for the light about 26*F outside. I just hit the key. The engine started and missed, studdered and smoked white till the cylinder temps rose. Then smoothed out instantly. Ran fine. No stall.

 

Air in the fuel will cause a stall on start up. 

Posted

It didn’t so much as stall as I let go of the key as soon as I heard the first sound of combustion and it wasn’t ready to go out on its own yet.   It started the first try today as I made sure to hold the key a little longer until it was practically running.  There was no voltage drop though, initially or even after it was running as I know the heater continues to cycle until certain parameters are met.  

Posted (edited)

It would be easy to check for battery voltage at the two large wire connections on the grid heater.  If there is no voltage present, then the two fusible links may have failed, OR maybe you disconnected the driver side positive battery cable and forgot to reconnect the two leads to the intake heater?  I know I wouldn't do anything like that...,

 

- John

Edited by Tractorman
  • Staff
Posted

 I would start with the grid heater electrical. Check the connections, make sure they're clean and tight, check for voltage as well. Like @Tractorman said, fusable links could have failed or maybe the relays, solenoids? Easy enough to track it down I would think.

Posted

I checked the connections on the heater and everything is tight.  I did pick up some new relays as they weren’t terribly expensive.  Took me a minute to find the ones on the truck.  I’ve had this thing almost 10 years and never noticed them before.  I’m gonna have to remove my intake tube to swap them out though.   My dark horse boots are a huge pain to remove and install, more so when they are cold.  I’ll wait for a nicer day and then drive a bit to warm things up and hopefully not have to cuss at the truck too much. 

Posted

Using a test lamp, did you check all the places that should have power?  I would do some testing before replacing parts.

 

- John

 

image.png.85f4f85cc2fa014a23d32654a682e8cb.png

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

The battery referenced in the diagram is the driver side battery.

 

Let us know what you find.

 

- John

Edited by Tractorman
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